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Thread: Need help reducing chatter lines in acrylic

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    , Elkhart IN
    Posts
    24

    Default Need help reducing chatter lines in acrylic


    17864.jpg
    I have been cutting out templates for grinding moulder cutters. They are cut out of .18" acrylic using a .05 straight bit. The machine is running as slow as it will go (10000 rpm and .05 ips). We need the template to be as smooth as glass. Currently our tooler files these edges down with a diamond file. It would be much more efficient if we could get a smoother cut from the get-go. Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    San Diego, CA
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    273

    Default

    Are you using CASt acrylic? I would use a Spiral O bit by Belin. What is your hold down method?

    You can do two two tool paths. Kind of lie to the machine and tell it you have a .28 bit (If your using a .25 CED) then do your second profile as a true .25

    A 3/8" or 1/2" bit can be a better edge quality if your part will allow it.

    Also their are specialty bits to do a final pass on to help smooth over. But other factors can be mechanical or even software. Too many nodes in your file or improper seating of your bearings on x,y & z axis, etc etc the list can go on.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    468

    Default

    A .05 tool, is that correct? That tool would be flexing like mad while cutting. Use a polished O-Flute spiral designed for acrylic in the largest possible diameter you can then make sure that the machine is tight mechanically. That would make a big difference. Some hand finishing might still be required but not as much.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    , South Jordan Utah
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    1,693

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    Emily,
    Are you using an Alpha? The chatter in your photo looks exactly like the chatter that I always got with my Alpha before installing 3:1 gear boxes on the motors. Even now, with acrylic, I still get some chatter, but now that much.

    I'm assuming that the .05 inch bit was a typo, and that you're really using an 0.500 inch cutter. Both Eriks gave good ideas. Personally, I use an O-Flute spiral like Eric Lamoray suggests. I also do my first cut as a climb cut and then repeat the cut as a conventional cut. The cutter seems to flex about 0.020" away from the true path when in climb mode. Following it up with another cut in the conventional mode cleans off that 0.020".

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Valcourt, Québec, Canada
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    1,887

    Default

    I agree with all the above and mostly with the "your photo looks exactly like the chatter that I always got with my Alpha". That's pretty much what you can get with the 1:1 ratio and 3.4.X SB3 control... unfortunately...
    A final very slow finishing pass (slow RPM too) might help some more.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    , Elkhart IN
    Posts
    24

    Default

    No that bit size is correct. A .05 bit. We have to do very tight corners on the templates in order to match the dimensions and profiles for the finished mouldings. we can't use a larger size for 95% of the templates we need. Even a .125 would be much too large. I would slow it down more but i cant go any slower. I do have the PRT alpha and we also have another shopbot with a colombo spindle but that one has horrible scallop marks when cutting diagonal and just as much chatter as the router. (I have to have maintenance look at the pinions on the spindle cnc to see if we can get rid of that scalloping). I cut the entire piece as a climb cut in order to get the cleanest cut on the finished piece and the bad edge on the waste. I screw the piece down to the spoil board. Several screws on the waste and one or two in the center of the template. The acrylic shavings pack the cutout very tightly so the piece is very stable. I think what we will finally end up doing is outsourcing our templates again. We used to go through somebody that had a laser cutter. They only cost $35 each and honestly we are probably spending more doing it ourselves. We have problems sending them our CAD files intact and usable for them (we use turbocad).

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    273

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    I would have to agree to have this work lasered, way you ge a polished edge too. But you should only be getting charged $100-150.00per hour

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Wild Atlantic Way
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    248

    Default

    Hi Emily

    We have produced cutter templates on the Shopbot. The method we use is a 45D V bit and an engraving strategy using VCarve Pro, this will give you sharp internal corners for the grinder to follow.


    Paul

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Coleman Woodworking, Petersburg NJ
    Posts
    118

    Default

    Emily:

    I agree with Erik - a laser would make quick work of this. Estimating the size of the piece based upon your picture, it would probably take less than 2 minutes on the laser table. If you're supplying a laser ready CAD file (which turbocad certainly is), then the $35 is a bit high. I'd be glad to cut them for you (the only problem would be shipping, I'm in NJ - it might make sense only if you are doing a bunch to spread the shipping cost). Drop me an email (ed_at_colemanwoodworking<dot>com&# 41; if you're interested.

    -Ed

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    DIGICOM IMAGING, Naperville IL
    Posts
    55

    Default

    Emily,

    I have a laser machine that could do those pieces for you. I am located in Chicago, so shipping would be minimal. I agree with Ed, that $35 is a little high if everything is set up.

    I'm not looking to compete with Ed, but if it saves you money on shipping then maybe I can be some help.
    my email is images@digicomimaging.com

    Send me a sample file and I will cut you a sample at N/C to see if this is what you are looking for.

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