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Thread: Arched top exterior door

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    575

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    Could you use the bot with a template. Trace the arch onto a paper or some sort of template that can lay flat on the table of your machine. Place the template square on the table and across the width of the template make reference marks say at 6" intervals. With a small 1/6" bit or small pointer move the spindle over the arch at the 6" intervals and record the readings from your screen. You should now be able to recreate the arch in your cad software. Make a sacrificial template to before cutting good material. I have done this once and it seem to work well. I am not good at geometry and complicated math so I find other ways. Hope I didn't confuse you too much.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    Atlanta GA
    Posts
    1,499

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    If the top of the door is a true arc, which it appears to be, then all you need is the width of the frame and the rise, that is the height of the center of the arc above a horizontal line through the top left corner and top right corner. Use those dimensions to re-create the arc in PartWorks, then cut a test piece out of cardboard or 1/4" plywood to be sure.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Cabinetry Green, LLC, Fishers IN
    Posts
    209

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    This really is a great forum. I need to come up with challenges more often. The geometric approach was what I was looking for. Thank you all for the creative thinking.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Heritage Woodcraft, Conquest Sask
    Posts
    259

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    That formula is awesome. The time I save now rather than templating is unbelievable as is the fit. Thank you
    Lorin

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    USVI
    Posts
    8

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    You could download Karona's Door program http://www.karonadoor.com/software.php,
    Then configure all the dimensions of the door and export the finished drawing it will be scaled correctly.
    steve

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Tonasket, WA
    Posts
    458

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    Is this cheating?

    48934.jpg

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Delray Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,708

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    I downloaded this handy calculating spreadsheet years ago from woodweb and still use it. (Tried to download the actual spreadsheet but it was too big for the forum so here is the link to it)

    http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...n_Program.html

    I have not only used this in cabinets but for things like making curved arched casing, jambliner, baseboard, etc. by taking the numbers off the conditions in the field and then making the parts in the shop.

    As far as remaking those doors: For the cost of the doors themselves a new jamb set or at least header should be minimal and by creating both yourself you have a much easier time of making sure you have a good fit. You certainly can use the shopbot extruder to do the arched casing. There is also a method for Arctcam or Aspire that works well.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Bedford Hills NY 10507
    Posts
    1,061

    Default

    How would this be done if you had an irregular
    opening?


    Erminio

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Ellettsville, IN
    Posts
    346

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    You can do it from a picture, but I'd recommend using two rulers in the picture, one in the x direction, one in the y. If you get offcenter one way or the other (x or y direction), you can scale the x and y independantly. Also it seems to help to stand way far back and use the zoom on the camera. It helps to hide the edges and makes the template easier to trace accurately.

    John

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Eastern Delaware
    Posts
    315

    Default

    John is correct, the longer, more telephoto, the lens is the less distortion.
    If you want to be at exactly 90 degrees to the wall or door, just tape a mirror to the spot.
    Be sure it is flat to the wall.
    When you center the reflection of the camera lens in the center of the mirror, you will be less than 1/4 of a degree off.
    If you don't want to bother with the mirror trick, just remember to keep the camera level, distortion is caused/corrected by the back/ film plane of the camera being in the same orientation as the subject. Even if the subject is then off center, it will have less distortion.
    yes, this stuff was my world for 35 years.
    Bob

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