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Thread: Router bits

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Lenox High School, Lenox MA
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    964

    Default Router bits

    I'm still having a problem with fine point bits breaking on z-zeroing with the z-zero plate. I changed the file from jog to move. That helped. I'm wondering if better bits would prove to be more durable. I've been using inexpensive bits. With the exception of this particular problem the bits have performed well.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
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    Valcourt, Québec, Canada
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    1,887

    Default

    Curious; how do they exactly failed/break? Is it carbide? Is it chipping or is the carbide tips is gotten removed as whole?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
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    Toms River, New Jersey
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    2,091

    Default

    Phil,
    On one of my home made zeroing plates I used a piece of copper computer circuit board as the "top"piece. This way when the bit comes down it hits the softer copper, and spares them from being shattered...
    I backed the circuit board with the cover from an electrical switch box so it would have the weight to stay in place on the table..

  4. #4
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    Mar 2004
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    Lenox High School, Lenox MA
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    Default

    The point of the carbide bit breaks off when it hits the zero plate.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    Atlanta GA
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    Default

    what z speed are you using? Does your z-zero routine set a z-move speed or does it just use the current speed? It seems like slowing the speed way down, and using keyboard control to position the bit just above the plate before zeroing would help.

    You can make a copy of the z-zero routine with a slower z move speed, and make a separate "custom cut" for that new file, and use that one for the smaller bits.

    Just how fine are these bits that are breaking?

  6. #6
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    Lenox High School, Lenox MA
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    Default

    I changed the zero routine ( C 2 command from the keyboard ) from J (jog) to M (move). The bits are very fine point bits - 60 degree V-bit and point roundover bits.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
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    Default

    This is where Phil first posted about his problem.

  8. #8
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    Jan 2004
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    Marietta GA
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    Default

    Phil, which version of the control software are you using? Not too long ago I switched from the DOS version to Windows version, one of the first things that I noticed was the z-zero routine moves much slower and touches off much "gentler" than previously (in the DOS ver).

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Atlanta GA
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    OK, I re-read the earlier post which Gerald cited. (I remembered it was there, but being lazy I figured Gerald could find it more easily than I
    )

    It seems that Phil doesn't set (or know how to set) the move speed within the file.

    Phil,

    if you will insert the following line before the line where you changed the JZ to MZ:

    MS,,.06

    This will change the Z move speed to 1/16 inch per second. I suggest you start no more than 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the zero plate or it could take a while. See if this is a little kinder to your bits.

    Then, just before the end of the file, insert the following line:

    MS,,.5

    (or substitute an appropriate value for your z move speed instead of the .5).

    There is a way to capture the current z move speed value, then reset to that value before ending the file, but I can't find the list of system variables that includes move speeds (Gerald?), and apparently some system variables have changed, so I don't want to mislead anyone.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    The Traditional Rocking Horse Co.,
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    1,164

    Default

    What about having a small metal 'tray' or shallow 'box' of known depth, fill it full (and I mean full to the brim)with soft solder.
    When the solder gets pock-marked, re-melt it, topping up if necessary.
    but don't forget I have yet to receive my ShopBot, so may be off target
    .........Mike

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