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Thread: Clear coating resistant to dry erase marker?

  1. #11
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    >>About 5 years ago I tried several of the Target products including a prototype of the polycarbonate. How is it for shrinkage? For mar-resistance?<<

    I tested the polycarbonate stuff just a few weeks ago and then sent it out on a millwork job that will be exposed to weather and (GASP!) children. The customer figures if the finish lasts a year an a half with the kids (100's a day) it will be pretty good stuff compared to past experience.

    I figure that will be the ultimate test for abrasion and mar resistance. Never had any shrinkage problems with the test piece or their Ultima Spray Lacquer. I've been using the USL for several months now and I'm pretty satisfied with it. It does take a little getting used to working with but once you get the hang it applies pretty easy.

  2. #12
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    Permalac isn't resistant to dry erase either. Of everything I've tried helmsman spar urethane. I order some target universal sealer, gloss and matt polys to try next. I had some luck shooting helmsmen canned poly thinned with about 20% mineral spirits from a harbor freight pressure can (aluminum paint can with air valve).


    xylene in dry erase markers is rough on finishes.

  3. #13
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    Just tried a little test for you on some test pieces I had shot in the past. I marked with a dry erase marker, waited 5 minutes and wiped off. The Target Ultima Spray lacquer is not resistant but the polycarbonate urethane wiped clean. Just remember if your testing, this stuff takes several days to achieve full chemical resistance!

    I'd talk to Jeff at Target for further info.

  4. #14
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    It seems that this topic is off to a rough start.

    Single stage topcoats, which are distilate based, made for wood, such as varnishes, and lacquers are relative soft. The reason they work so well on wood is their ability to flex and move around as the furniture expands and shrinks. Sail boats, coated with varnish, are the prime example. On these vessels, it's thick and relative soft.

    What is needed here is a catalized clear coat used for cars. We use Matthews but ANY automotive clear should work very well. It takes a few days or heat lamps for curing.

    John, I'd suggest you test a dry marker on a automobile finish.

  5. #15
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    Eric, I ordered satin poly, gloss poly and universal sealer. I tried the satin poly (its indoor only) and it does ok. it might need additional time to cure. The gloss which is indoor/outdoor might work...I haven't tried that yet.

    Joe, my wife would kill me.

    Ragging on thinned helmsman poly really makes poly easy to get on smooth. It takes more coats, but each coat is a lot less hassle.

    -- I did find Markee clear dry erase paint. I'll try that next, but at 100+/gallon, its pricey.

    regards,
    John

  6. #16
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    Did you get the Emtech9300? That's the polycarbonate stuff. That's the one I had success with. According to the sheet it takes 150 hours to achieve full working properties for chemical resistance.

  7. #17
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    Crud, I think I got the oxford because I wasn't paying attention. Its still pretty nice stuff. It won't go to waste. I'll probably try the Markee stuff next if the target oxford gloss doesn't work well enough.

  8. #18
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    John,

    No she won't, because Dry Markers will wipe right off.

    Joe

  9. #19
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    That target poly is great. I brushed it on badly and it still came out great. I was mistaken, the oxford poly is all indoor. The next time I order from them, I'll get some of the emtech. I'm ordering markee dry erase paint tonight. its pricey though...$97/gallon, but it should work.

    joe...I don't know much about auto finishes. Can I shoot that kind of stuff out of a critter gun?

    John

  10. #20
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    John, For auto finishes use a hvlp gun to shoot it, but be sure of ventilation. You don't want this stuff in your lungs or on everything in your shop. James

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