Hanging Signs made of Sign Foam

[sam]

I have a sign that I will be routing out on both sides, it is 1.25" thick, it will be V-Carved and End Mill cuts will be used.

What is the best way to hang signs made of Sign Foam to a swinging bracket?

That is.... should I use screws, lag bolts, or some form of epoxy to attach to the desired hanging points where the chain is attached to?

Any and all ideas are welcome.

- Thanks, Sam Errett

[hol]

It depends - how big is the sign?

Larry

[jamesgilliam]

Sam, Here is the last sign I did, the first one to hang. I cut the sides from two pieces, used Di-Bond in the middle of them to secure the frame to, and just used eye bolts through the frame to hang it.

36087.jpg
The sign was 2' x 3' and has an additional eye bolt back to the post to limit it's swing.

[joewino]

First of all, I try to discourage any type of free swinging sign, especially in our area where we have lots of wind. They have a tendency to kill themselves over time.

Usually we will make them look free swinging but secure them solidly to the post in some way.

If you have already begun the project and will carve both sides of the same panel, I would suggest that you put a sturdy frame around the sign with either wood or metal and secure everything with epoxy - then add your hangers to the frame.

A better method is as James suggested. Two pieces of HDU sandwiched over an aluminum, DiBond, or MDO center. We normally mortise several straps down inside the "sandwich" to which we add the hanging devices. That way the stress is distributed over the entire sign, not just the border.

Hope this helps.

[sam]

Raymond,

What do you use for the straps when you are mortising, and yes the sign blanks are already cut.

2 pieces 1" thick sign foam and it will be 18" x 24" with some curves here and there.

-Thanks, Sam Errett

[joewino]

Sam - we just use strap aluminum - 1" wide purchased at Lowe's. They extend past the edge of the sign border a few inches with holes drilled to mount on S-hooks or whatever is used.

[sam]

Raymond,

Thnks for the info.

My next question is, is there a prefered epoxy that you recomend, of course it would need to be something stout.

Maybe, as a guess....liquid nails, locktite epoxy (mixing kind) or gorilla glue?

Or is there something better?

-Thanks, Sam Errett

[joewino]

I've never like Gorilla Glue because it expands so much and clamps are necessary to hold everything in place or it will move as the glue dries.

Our choice is West Systems two part epoxy. It is available from boat dealers and some wooodworking stores. The resin/hardener ratio is 5:1 and the dispensers make it really easy to mix. It also has a powdered filler that helps to fill in voids.

The resin comes in a gallon container and the hardener in a quart can. Cost is about $135.

We've been using this for years with no problems.

For small letters and such we use Super Glue.

Clear GE Silicone Sealer #1 is also a good adhesive, but it takes longer to set and cure. One advantage is that it remains flexible, so it is good for putting two pieces together that may expand and contract at different rates.