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Thread: Removing Gerber Mask II Residue

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    , South Jordan Utah
    Posts
    1,693

    Default Removing Gerber Mask II Residue

    I just made two V-Carved signs using a high gloss black lacquer as the background color and ivory as the lettering color. The Gerber Mask II product worked well, leaving the lettering crisp, but it left an adhesive residue when I pulled it off the sign.

    What is the secret to peeling Gerber Mask II off of the sign without leaving a messy residue?

    Mike

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Posts
    2,941

    Default

    Was your black lacquer completely cured before you applied the mask?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    , Ottawa On
    Posts
    535

    Default

    The mask residue, comes off with water, or just rub it with your fingers. I have on occasion had similar problems, but it came off real easy
    Dale

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Rogers, Arkansas
    Posts
    1,010

    Default

    Were are you all purchasing your Gerber Mask II and what does it cost?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    , South Jordan Utah
    Posts
    1,693

    Default

    Thanks for the help.

    Gerald - I waited 36 hours after spraying the lacquer before applying the mask. To me that's long enough, but I'm not a painter. Any ideas?

    Dale - Thanks for the water tip. It didn't even occur to me to try plain water. I experimented with every solvent/thinner that I had on hand. Mineral Spirits was my last effort before posting the plea for help.

    Ken - A local sign supply company, Regional Supply in Salt Lake City. The Gerber Mask II costs just over $100 for a 50 yd roll that is 15 inches wide.

    Now, back to making signs. I made the mistake of carving a "cutesy" plaque for my wife. Within a few hours my two married daughters had orders for several dozen plaques on condition that I could furnish v-carved plaques that had a high gloss finish. Then the experiments began.

    The material is MDF since the plaques and signs are small enough that weight is not a problem and everything is meant for indoor use.

    Lacquer was choosen because it's easy to work with, very forgiving when mistakes are made (simply recoat and the layers melt together), fast drying, and it cleans up easily. As a side note, I've watched my old photo lab customers use lacquer for more than twenty years. Most of them only clean their guns on Friday afternoon. The rest of the time, they simply dip the gun's nozzle in lacquer thinner from time to time to unclog the orfices.

    After reading lots of posts on this forum, I selected the following procedure:

    1. Prime the MDF with a high-solids content primer. Use two or more coats, sanding between coats until the desired primed surface is achieved.

    2. Spray on the background color using as many coats of lacquer as necessary.

    3. Spray on clear coat of lacquer to protect the color coat.

    4. Let paint cure for 1-2 days.

    5. Apply Gerber Mask II

    6. V-carve the plaque/sign

    7. Spray on a coat of base color

    8. Spray on lettering color

    9. Spray on clear coat to protect the lettering.

    10. Remove Gerber mask material.

    11. Remove mask residue with water.

    12. Spray on clear coat, if necessary.

    There are lots of steps, but most of them take just a few seconds per plaque/sign.

    Any suggestions?

    Mike

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Norman, Ok
    Posts
    3,251

    Default

    Mike,

    You could try using Gold Leaf to fill your letters. There isn't anything like it for visability or quality.

    Watch out, you will get hooked.

    Joe

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Digital Router Works, Farmington Utah
    Posts
    103

    Default

    Joe,
    What product do you recommend for doing gold leaf in carved letters? Doing a Google search on gold leaf yields many different products. Just wondering what you've had sucess with, and how it is applied.

    Thanks,
    Matt

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Norman, Ok
    Posts
    3,251

    Default

    Matt.

    Gilding isn't difficult once you're on to the process. You will probably need a little assistance as you begin.

    Look for a "Letterhead" sign artist in your area who will probably be glad to assist.

    I use Rick Glawsons supply. www.esotericsignsupply.com

    Joe

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    , South Jordan Utah
    Posts
    1,693

    Default

    I'm still having trouble with Gerber Mask II. It seems like the lacquer (thinned 100%) is bleeding through the Gerber Mask II when I spray on the lettering color. Using 3M 08984 adhesive remover and lots of elbow grease removes the adhesive, but ... it's expensive and adds a step that takes more time than all of the other steps combined.

    Do any of you coat/seal the Gerber II with something to stop bleed-through?




  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Norman, Ok
    Posts
    3,251

    Default

    Mike,

    Is the problem caused by too much wet lacquer atop the mask which causes the mask adhesive to release? If so, reduce the amount of wet lacquer. Lighter, dryer coats and, or use a barrier coat with a can of Kils primer.

    Joe

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