Your sign does not tell anyone what you do...other than you accept no substitute.
RIB
Your sign does not tell anyone what you do...other than you accept no substitute.
RIB
Richard,
Please review the previous post. There will be changeable panels listing his services.
Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com
Oh, I thought he was dropping them...
RIB
I've finally furged out how to do the raisded letters .
Ready to buid I want to use cherry 2 reson 1 I have lots left over 2 I can get a real nice color
Question is there problem with cherry exterior
I'am very experican in exterior wood finishes I know limation I figure its worth the extra work to keep adding clear coats.
I woul like to try gold leaf lettering.
Thanks for the help in advanced. You;ve really opened up my eyes
Kevin (and all), good luck with your sign. I was in agony over mine. It seemed to me (like Jack said) there are many opinions, but only you know what you want to represent you and your work. Glad to see you are on your way. I took 3 months to figure out what i wanted. All the great suggestions are a help (they also helped me with idea's for other sighs for clients.) I am having trouble with clear coats for my signs due to the heat issue here. I've never tried Cherry for an outdoor sign. I have had good luck with: Pine, Cedar, Redwood, Composite Decking and Mahogany. Trouble with using composite decking material, making glue-ups. I don't feel real happy with the strength of the joint. Good Luck and Enjoy the sign, hope it gives you lots of calls.
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I finally routed the sign. stained and clear coating is next. The bottom part explaining what I do will be forthcoming. The letters on the top part will be done in gold. I decided to leave the wood look with 1 coat of stain. The pictures are low quality because I am using my camcorder. I will post at the end of the week. Thank you for all your help. What I have learnt is worth 10 years experience. Any suggestions?
Good going Kevin,
If this were my sign, I'd cut all the letters for another material to be gilded and applied. There are two reasons: First is the added depth, followed by the ease of gilding. It's been a long time since I've produced a sign like this and didn't apply letters to the surdace.
Cherry isn't a very good exterior material. I'd suggest using Mahogany.
Joe
Thanks for your comments Joe. You have inspired me. I'll try your suggestions for the bottom half of my sign. What you do is light years ahead. I found this to be a huge learning curve. My shop is busy now and I did my sign late at night and between deadlines. I agree with you on the mahogany but I can't get it in this area. The front doors of my shop are made out of African Mahogany. I will put the sign up and I will push myself to do raised letters that way there will be a 2 different samples.There will be a roof over the sign as a protection. I am aware that I will have to clear coat the sign every couple of years but it doesn't get at hot as down south. I will put both signs back to back using plywood in the middle and polyurethane glue and that should take care of any drying issues. If it fails, next year I will be doing a Mahogany sign. I will try to get a better picture. The sign does look killer. I look at the old one compared to the one you designed and it is like comparing kindergarden to university. Thanks again. Kevin
Kevin,
I've found hard coats like poly's don't work very well on exterior wood. Their nature is to crack and peal with the natural expanion of wood. I like Sikkens, Log and Siding, which comes with the necessary UV inhibitors.
Kevin,
If and when you get around to cutting your letters, I'd suggest a thin material like dyebond or 1/8" PVC. I don't know why, but a thin stock looks more appropriate.
That's what I've done on this panel.
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