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Thread: Wood Sign Blanks

  1. #1
    jay_mack1@hotmail.com Guest

    Default Wood Sign Blanks

    Does anyone make their own wood sign blanks and if they do, what do you make them out of and how?

    How have the "blue" foam insulated signs held up?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    , Ottawa On
    Posts
    535

    Default

    I do!
    I use 1.5 pine used for stair runners. I also use vertical grain cedar and California redwood.

    I have used pink foam and you can harden the surface with a product called styro spray manufactured by Industrial polymers Inc. out of houston.

    With Bill Palumbos help I just carved a 10ft long 3D chain out of this pink foam and will be applying this Styro-Spray over it then using a metal coating over top of that to make it look like real metal.

    Dale

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NovaScotia
    Posts
    275

    Default

    Could you post a pic when its done Dale?
    steve

  4. #4
    jay_mack1@hotmail.com Guest

    Default

    Dale,

    I'm going to run this down...

    After you machine the pink foam, you spray this StyroSpray on the foam, let it dry and then paint it? What product are you using and about what are the costs of the Spray? The downside of the product?

    How many signs have you done this way? Weathering?

    This is really kinda interesting and their web site has some interesting products. I am with Steve, please send pictures when you get it accomplished.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Associated Design, Anderson SC
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Hey guys, I checked out the website for Styrospray, but they don't have an order page!! Do you know where a "dealer" is?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    , Ottawa On
    Posts
    535

    Default

    Again I can not take credit for the chain entirley. Bill Palumbo invested many ours in getting the geometry to work. Thanks Bill!
    It took 26 hours to cut with an 1/8th inch taperd ball nose as that was the only bit that I had in my arsenal to perform the task. it was cut in four sections a the chain would end up being 10ft long 14 in. wide and 4 in. deep.
    Bill suggested sealing the piece with epoxy such as the type used in boat building techniqes. From there you can sand and apply exterior grade finishes.
    I have since increased my arsenal to include exteded legth 1/4 in. and 1/2 in. tapers ball nose cutters in hopes of reducing the machine time.

    I tend to jump into projects stating I can perform the tasks and then figuring them out as I go along. it may be a little time consuming and sometimes even costly but it forces me to try new things. And that I find is truly worth it.

    Once the item is ready for install I will post some photos.

    As for durability, as it is for an exterior application but not one where it has to deal with people touching it, only the elements it should stand up for many years.

    I have done several interior signs out of the pink foam, and used acrylic paint to seal and finish them.
    I foolishly carved an emblem that took 6 hours to machine in styro foam and then excitedly sprayed a gold finish that I did not clue in was laquer based and proceeded to melt all my hard done work....ARRRGGHHH.
    enough banter for now, i will post photos when available.
    Dale

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    , Ottawa On
    Posts
    535

    Default

    You can order directly from them. They will even send you a sample of the product in use.
    Dale

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    Toms River, New Jersey
    Posts
    2,091

    Default

    As Dale has mentioned I tend to use epoxy for the shell, and then it also acts as a barrier coat which will allow you to use solvent based coatings on the styrofoam. After using a lot of different epoxies over the years in boatbuilding I now use MAS epoxies exclusively. Low VOC content, easy to apply, and when you are finished you clean up your hands and tools with white vinegar, NO acetone...
    I'm not too sure of the Styro Spray pricing, but epoxy isn't expensive when you consider the actual square footage you can cover with a regular kit of resin and hardener. I've had styrofoam signs outside my shop facing South for 4 years now, with no sign of weathering yet. You need to thoroughly coat the epoxy as sunlight/UV rays are just about the only thing the degrades it..
    Another option is to use the water based(be careful they make an oil based product as well) primer/sealer usually used for sealing knots in wood and blocking water stains on ceilings. Brand name is "Zinzer" and a gallon costs less than 20 bucks at the Depot, etc. It dries very hard and will need some sanding if you are heavy handed when you brush it on. It can also be thinned and sprayed though.
    Pink foam is best used in 2.5/3D applications because you can build up depth easily and inexpensively, without having too much weight to worry about. It's also the ideal surface to "practice" cutting files with. If you like it, coat it and keep it. If not, stick it on the wall of your shop for sound deadening and insulation..

  9. #9
    jay_mack1@hotmail.com Guest

    Default

    Okay,

    This Info is great, I am overly excited, then again, that might be the coffee this morning... Wife bought some new stuff, lot of bean in the coffee.

    How about the construction of large wood blanks? Biscuit, glue and clamp?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Artisan, Industrial Art Company, Little River SC
    Posts
    305

    Default

    Hi guys....I've been away, but this post caught my eye. Move cautiously in the direction of styrospray if you are new to foam. The product requires a plural component system to apply properly....the hopper gun and brush-on formulas will work, but are very hard to handle. Epoxy is by far the easier choice in the beginning for coating foam. This is exactly the sort of thing my business specializes in....D

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