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Thread: Spoilboard Fire

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    468

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    First off let's hear it for fire extinguishers! I have twice the capacity in my shop that the fire code demands. Then I added a 15 lb CO2 on the Shopbot frame. CO2 is much kinder to equipment than dry chem and there's no residue to clean up. Just make sure it's big enough to do the job. I know it's not rated for wood fires but a good sized one will due the job if you do yours, trust me!

    As for tooling I won't touch Freud tools or sawblades any more. They just don't have the quality they once had years ago. Make sure your tooling is designed and balanced as a CNC tool from the get go and you'll have much better luck. Also, sharp means if I drag it across my finger nail the edge tries to "bite" not just slide across.

    I wonder if you are by chance cutting import core plywood? I refuse to cut it any more. It destroys tooling at an amazing rate and I hit so many pieces of steel and other tool destroying trash that it is now banned from my shop. The only exception being Arauco and Elliotis. Two south american cores that have proven to be stable and safe. NO CHINESE OR INDONESIAN! An incident with import core plywood burned a 1' diameter hole in my spoiboard before my operator got the machine stopped and we extinguished it.

    As for the variables under the "VR" command I have tweeked them to do a better job of cutting my typical parts order which is usually complex shaped small to medium sized parts nested into full sheets using a "Single Sheet" material strategy.

    Move ramp speed .4
    Move ramp rate .235
    3D Ramp threshold 750
    Min distance to check .13
    Slow corner 40

    Cutting nothing but cabinet parts might change these settings some as would extensive 3D work. I typically cut poplar core 3/4" ply in a single pass at 18,000 rpm with a feed rate of 7 to 8 IPS with a single flute compression spiral. Another very good choice is a single flute polished O flute up spiral.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    , South Daytona Florida
    Posts
    408

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    Fire extinguisher -> car = good idea.

    As a journalist once wrote: "There's nothing worse than watching your $30,000 car burn to the waterline because you didn't have a $12 fire extinguisher with you."

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Online Ecommerce Ltd, Blackburn Lancashire
    Posts
    145

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    Fantastic post by Eric...

    Changing my variables solved my issues. Until they were changed I had the same problem you have but 10 times a day on 3 machines.

    I have to cut the chinese and have discovered the weirdest stuff in the wood however I always found that the spoilboard went first before the wood.

    On my worst day I lost the filter from my vacuum setup.

    Where possible on my products I try to put a radius in slightly bigger than my cutter rather than using a 90 degree corner so that the machine doesn't come to a standstill in any point.

    Be careful using a CO2 extinguisher in a non ventilated enclosed space...

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Cabinets Plus of Augusta, Hephzibah Ga 30815
    Posts
    1,504

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    Robert
    Where did you find the settings to slightly round the corners,

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Online Ecommerce Ltd, Blackburn Lancashire
    Posts
    145

    Default

    Hi Gene,

    In partswizard we used fillet vector with an arc..

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    468

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    Robert, have you checked if the Arauco product is available in your area. It's not much more than the chinese stuff here and vastly better. Many people here are switching over. One local importer is starting to bring in a south american product with an okoume face that the furniture guys are warming up to but I haven't run any yet.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Habitat For Bats, Jackson GA
    Posts
    2,113

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    I'm cutting Arauco 1/2" ACX. For the most part I'm pleased with it but I find that the C side often more closely resembles what I'd call a D. Out of 20 sheets all have surface voids and at least 5 had vast surface voids. One was completely unusable, about 30% of the C face was missing.

    Robert

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    468

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    I think we're getting AB and AA here. It's pretty good for the price. Don't think I've seen the ACX. Even with the elliotis ply you never want the c/c-. Looks like what we used to call CDX 15 years ago. The c+/c is good for upholstered furniture parts though.

    Ahhh, the never ending search for decent plywood. Surely shooting at a moving target isn't it!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Habitat For Bats, Jackson GA
    Posts
    2,113

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    My 1/2" ACX is $24/sheet. The only AB grade I can find is Marine Ply and I can't use that 1) it costs about $50/sheet and 2) it has chemicals in it that would harm the bats.

    I've never been successful finding just Exterior (not Exposure) grade AB.

    Robert

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    468

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    I see your point! I believe this stuff here is an interior grade. AB exterior, that's a tuff one! Most of the marine grade stuff I've seen in the last few years hardly meets the true marine grade standards I was used to in boat building 20 years ago anyways. Just win the lottery and buy your own press?

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