Cabinet Parts Pro

[cedars]

Anyone out there currently using Cabinet Parts Pro in their business? I sure could use help breaking this learning curve with information on what bits work best, what settings are working best etc. I am cutting 3/4" birch plywood for cabinet boxes. I am having trouble getting the right settings for making a dado just the right width to accept the plywood tops and bottoms. I am also getting a lot of tear out from the bit. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Steve

[harryball]

I'm not using it in a busines, but I am using it to make cabinets around the house. I'm not brave enough to tackle something like kitchen cabinets or anything, but I've had good results.

Lately I've begun using CPPro to create the dxf files and importing them into Aspire. It seems a little cumbersome at first but I'm considerably more comfortable using Aspire to make tweaks and generate toolpaths and the preview is very helpful. With the newest version of Aspire/VCPro (Partworks as well) you get multiple sheet support which makes it easier.

Good luck and post some of your work.

/RB

[john_hartman]

Steve, I just started using the CPP with mixed results. Be prepared for a learning curve. There's no way around it and you will be better off in the long run having had gone through it.

As far as bit, I have found a 3/8" straight bit to work best for cutting maple/birch ply @ 15000rpm, 5" ips. With this bit you in a minimum of 1/2" clearance between parts..

[loriny]

Check in the techniques section. I was looking for some of the same information. It is under cutting with 1/4 or 5mm bits or something like that. As for the depth of dado I ws having trouble and found that when I was flattening my spoil board the center would suck closer to the vacuum grid and machine less off. I had to situate a few pieces of gasketing under the spoil board to keep it flat. When I would cut the plywood the spoilboard must not flex so the center would be higher. Now my dadoes are perfect.
lorin

[Gary Campbell]

Steve...
We have found that the best bit for cutting cabinets, especially those with dados are mortise compression bits. They virtually eliminate tear due to the up/down flute configuration.

They also have a reduced height section of upcut on the tip of the bit. This allows very clean dados (when cutting .24 or deeper).

If you need to cut dados under .375 wide, then use the 1/4" version, if wider works, then use the 3/8". The 3/8 will cut the dados faster, and allow higher cutting speeds due to the extra beef in the bit. BTW, we are using bits Centurion Tool. (not affiliated)

We use a climb/conventions 2 pass method for our parts. 1st pass is 6 ips, .71 deep, climb mill, 13500 rpm. Second is 6 ips, full depth, conventional, same rpm. Hope this helps.
Gary

[Gary Campbell]

Steve...
I got lost on the bit stuff... can you post what your dado settings are?
Gary

[cedars]

Gary,

I think I was using a compression bit but I wonder that with a cutting depth of only .25 for the dado was the up cut portion of the bit to high thus causing the excessive tear out?

My settings for my base cabinet for the blind/full dados is: depth .25", stop 0, width .7343 and side clearance .05. The plywood I am using actually measures .7343. Now in the tool paths my settings for the dados are: tool diameter .375, depth per pass .25, step over .395, rpm 12000 feed rate 4 and plunge rate 2, tool offset inside, direction conventional.

All of this seems to produce a dado that is to narrow for the plywood.

I am also confused about the feed rate. I am told my prt standard has a max feed rate of 6 or 8 ips yet I see comments about 120ips or 300 ips, how is this possible.

One more thing. Under cabinet settings, construction options, is there some place that can give me a clear explanation of just what these options will produce for me. I must be thick, because I am finding them rather difficult to understand. The way I like to do dados for the backs for example, I dado .25 on the two sides and also for the bottom. The top is cut same as the sides less the thickness of the offset and .25 back. I assemble the cabinet and slide the top down into the dado and nail the back to the back of the top piece. I am not clear on what combination of construction options will yeild this for me.

I am very new to this forum but I am finding is so very helpful. I am so grateful for the information you have gone before me are willing to share.

Thanks,
Steve

[bill_lumley]

Steve , contact Ryan at info@cabinetpartspro.com . He can help you out . He wrote the program and is happy to help new users . It will be faster than this


Bill

[cedars]

Bill,

I have been in touch with Ryan and he has been a big help.

I was hoping to get bit information and setting information from someone who has found what works best for them. This, I think, will get me up and running with the least pile of expensive scrap wood.
As it is my pile is large enough.

Steve

[benchmench]

Steve,

The best way to work out the settings for your method of joinery is to manually figure out the cutlist for a standard size cabinet of each type you want to make, for example, "base" 24x24x34.5, then make it in CPPRO using the construction settings and compare the nested output of each part with your manual cutlist. Some of the settings are self-explanatory, some are not but this is one way to figure out what works for you and what doesn't.