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Thread: How can you cut a part longer then your shopbot?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Sun Signs, Macon Mississippi
    Posts
    24

    Default How can you cut a part longer then your shopbot?

    I make signs. This sign that I am working on it is 10 feet long. I have an 8 foot long table. It needs to be cut to a shape. No 3D work is involved.

    Is there a way to cut part of the sign and then move it and finish? Surely someone here has figured out a good way to do this.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Signgraphics, El Cajon CA
    Posts
    202

    Default

    It is possible....screw down a straight edge to the table on the bottom and cut the left half, then slide it along the straight edge to cut the right half. This is done only if the bottom is straight.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    , Canyon Lake TX
    Posts
    351

    Default

    You can do this on any shaped piece if you drill registration holes in the workpiece and the table.

    For example, drill two holes through the workpiece and into the table. Insert dowels to align, then cut the first portion. Then remove workpiece from the table and drill more two holes into the table at your desired offset. Then insert dowels through the workpiece into the new holes. You're now "registered". See image.

    You can also drill partially into the back of the workpiece without piercing the front. It just requires an extra flip.


    38552.jpg

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Newberry, MI
    Posts
    566

    Default

    I use the straight-edge method like John. I have a 12 ft. powerstick on my Buddy and am regularly asked to do pieces longer than 144 inches (actual carving area). I mark the edge of the board and then mark the straight-edge with the current position and the required movement position. I am going to have to try the dowel method though! I have a big one coming in on Wednesday. Thanks Scott!!

    Mike

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    707

    Default

    I've bored holes in the spoil board around the edge of a piece and used dowels as alignment pegs. One set of pegs and files for each side. When your first set is done put the right pegs in the right holes and then flip the piece around.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    , Cheltenham
    Posts
    415

    Default

    My preferred way is to use a straight edge fence (fixed then milled on the shopbot) AND a single dowel (drilled by shopbot) for location. You can machine an odd shape along a straight edge by screwing it onto a piece of plywood with a straight edge and moving both along a fence.

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