Inlay Test For Christmas Presents

[dana_swift]

I prefer to make Christmas presents rather than buy them. Since its that time of year I have been considering several options.

Remembering an inlay technique by Paul Zank that I was told about by Bill P. I decided to give it a test. Then the presents can truely be personalized.

I read up on Pauls technique, and in just about two hours made my first test. I used a pine board for the female inlay, and a bit of "ruined" rosewood for my male reverse "outlay". (Why to keep colorful scrap!)

Here is Pauls writeup on his method:

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/messages/2/14775.html

It came out better than I expected. My V carve bit was a bit dull and the points of the male lettering were very fuzzy, so I did not expect a good result. Wrong! The fuzzy parts are burried deep in the female V grooves. And probably it gave more for the glue to grab.

Here is the result after using the thickness sander to remove the excess rosewood:

48737.jpg

Here is the result after following up with a random orbit sander:

48738.jpg

And a closeup:

48739.jpg

A few quick notes: Pine earlywood is too soft for the technique to work well. I will try a 60degree bit next. This was using a 90 like Paul describes. Inlay depth was 0.100 inches, however the font made most of the inlay more like 0.050.

I have been working with Aspire to get better artwork for my next efforts. Don't want to mess up there! This will keep me out of the malls for sure.


Now I will be buying some new V bits (its about time!) And prepare to spend a long weekend making presents..

And a million thanks to Bill P.

Ho^3

D

[dlcw]

Nice job Dana.

I look forward to seeing some of the fruits of your labor in the next couple of weeks.

Don
www.diamondlakewoodworks.com

[porscheman]

Dana,

I just completed a large machining project for a local woodworker that involved this inlay method. I definitely got better results with a 60 degree bit than a 90 degree bit, so that's worth a try. Also, I learned from a few less-than-perfect tests that the wood used for the male portion of the inlay needs to be very dense in order to preserve all the fine details in the inlay (rather than tearing out the wood fiber).

I used the recommended depth settings in the most current version of Paul's approach (inlay pocket flat depth = .3", inlay flat depth = .2", inlay start depth = .2"). I obtained exceptional results with hard maple inlaid into walnut.

Hope this helps.

John

[dana_swift]

John- I just procured a 60 deg bit. My inlays will be more shallow, probably 0.1 or 0.2 at most. I will try some maple and see how that works for the male side.

Spent last evening creating artwork. Adjusting corners so the male female fit doesn't have fillets that wont seat.

All in all I am quite impressed with the test, it shows that my fine details are at the limit of my materials. Hard male material will make the difference. I will be keeping that in mind-

Thanks!

D

[courtney2018]

Dana, that looks really good!

[tmerrill]

Quote: Adjusting corners so the male female fit doesn't have fillets that wont seat.

Dana,

One of the advantages of this method is you don't have to make adjustments like you describe.

Tim

[dana_swift]

Tim- oh yes you do.. if the end mill wont fit into an area with inadequate clearance you get a fillet that prevents mating. The adjustment not only solves the radius problems on the end mill in the corners, it eliminates the "tight spots" that create the fillets.

Imagine trying to use a one inch end mill to make the flat areas, it could not get into most of the pocket areas to create the flat areas of either male or female causing interference. Smaller bits just have smaller interference areas, but they are still there.

Some artwork adjustment is still needed, either that or you get an interference fit. Some force required..

The technique is wonderful, but end mill size matters. One of those times when smaller is better. ;)

D

[tmerrill]

Sorry Dana,

I've never had to make an adjustment. But your sample looks great so I suggest you keep with your method.

Tim

[tmerrill]

For those interested in Paul's method I recommend you visit the Vectric forum and download Paul's excellent .pdf file with updated information.

http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtop...64&start=0

Tim

[harold_weber]

Dana, are you saying that it is not possible to use Paul Zank's method to do what is shown here?

48779.jpg