220 Volt Routers and Milwaukee 5626-20 Update

[cjohnson]

My PC router is about to give up the ghost and so I am now evaluating alternatives. I do not have enough production to justify a spindle at this time so I would like to hear your feedback/update concerning noise, performance, torque, would you buy it again, and any other feedback on:

1. 220v Routers if you have one
2. The Milwaukee 5626-20 Router
3. Other routers besides the PC

I think it would be interesting to hear how these have withstood the test of time and your own feedback / opinions.

Thanks,
CJ

[ed_lang]

I understand your production/cost to justify a spindle but please look hard at the HSD spindles before you install another router.

I just installed a 4HP HSD. It replaced my PC7518. World of difference is every respect.
Collet sizes
Noise
Power
Cut quality
speed control
speed constant

I respect your decision to go router, but wanted to gently tug you towards a spindle if that could be worked out.

Good luck!

Ed

[cjohnson]

Thanks for the tug Ed. It doesn't take much to get me in the doghouse when it comes to spending money on my bot. HSD could very well take over the CNC router market if it could market a product between its current offering and the production router market such as PC and Milwaukee. I am sure a spindle will be in my future but for now my focus has to be on the performance and opinions of the PC alternatives. The archives reveal what those alternatives are but its been a while since we have received feedback over time. Especially when it comes to the 220 volt routers. Most of my woodworking equipment is 220 volt due to the better torque available. However, in the CNC router world, there is relatively few that have chosen the 220v router route. While there may not be many 220v users out there, there are a lot of Milwaukee users who has used their routers long enough to give us PC users some good feedback. Thanks in advance for your opinions.
cj

[paco]

Craig,

I do highly recommend the MK over the PC. I have both. Both are 15amps motors. Both are easy to service. Both cost about the same from what I saw recently; shop around the Web. Both fit the SB router mounting; the MK is about 0.04" smaller so you'll need to shim.

The MK has a much better speed/torque control compare to the PC. The MK is less noisy and doesn't get as hot as the PC. The MK offer a better range of speed and has better collet design.

I just finish carving large mantel is both MDF and solid Birch and the MK bearing failed so I swapped it for the PC. Roughing with the PC slowed me down of about 25% on the feed to keep up with the less than desirable speed/torque control. Same story with aluminum routing; the non-constant speed/torque of the PC make the milling very unstable while the MK stand very steady as long as you don't push it too much with large cutter.

I believe the MK offer a better warranty than the PC too... that doesn't apply to normal wear of parts like brushes and bearings though.

One drawback (I should be honest right?); the MK collets are up to 4 times more expensive than the PC's... again, shop around.

Look that you'll have to deal with 120volts if you go wit the MK.

I just got my replacement bearings today so I should be posting MK bearing services procedure soon on my blog.

[paco]

I finally post the MK5625 bearings replacement "How-to". Many pictures.

Let me know if it help and what you think.

[rustnrot]

Paco, I am unclear on your choice of bearings. You used UNshielded vs. Shielded for original? Also, please post the catalog numbers of the aftermarket bearings you used.

[paco]

The factory install and the ones you'll get from MK is are sealed. I chosen to install a shield for the lower (bigger) one.

I got a SKF 6004 2Z. Double check as your can differ... but shouldn't...!?

[cjohnson]

Instatlled the Milwaukee today. Had to disassemble it to take the microadjuster off. I was able to get an idea how the brushes and bearings are setup. I had to put one round of alum flashing on the barrel so that the shopbot mount would hold it. To me, the milwaukee router has half the noise level as the Porter Cable. As far as weight is concerned, the porter cable is heavier by a couple of pounds. The Milwaukee seems to have more plastic in its design so I do not know how this will fair in durability. The only snag in this whole deal is the collets. I have every collet size for the PC including a fancy quick change collet that has a simple hex that is loosen to remove the bit. I have been able to find 3 collets for the Mil (1/4, 3/8, and 1/2). Luckly, I don't have any bits with a shank smaller than 1/4.

After all is said and done including the time and hidden collet cost, this modification was done with no regrets.

Thanks to all who posted helpful information over the years on this.
cj

[drodda]

Craig,
I am also contemplating this purchase. As my PC is getting tired also. Why did you need to remove the microadjuster, was it in the way of mounting it to your Shopbot? Has anyone purchased the Jessem MK router with the seperate speed cotroll?

[rhfurniture]

Paco,
2 Months ago I put an SKF6004 2Z in my Bosch, and have had to replace it today. The original bearings had 2 low friction rubber seals, and as they are exposed to the underside outside of the router I think dirt must have got in to my metal seal replacement. I will get some as the original: SKF 60042RSL ( 60042LFS )
They are more expensive, and I did wonder why the manufacturer used them rather than the cheaper metal shielded ones - now I know.

R.