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Thread: Vacuum Plenum - MDF problems

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Creative 3D WoodArt, Dongola IL
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    130

    Default Vacuum Plenum - MDF problems

    Hello Shopbotters:

    I cut my first vacuum plenum board (4x8) from MDF Saturday, and sealed it with a waterproofing sealer for wood/masonry. I was very disappointed with the result - it seemed that the MDF soaked up enormous quantities of the thin liquid and swelled up...

    In retrospect I think maybe I should have used a urethane sanding sealer type product? But, after this experience...

    Is it really sensible to use MDF? Is there some type of plastic or PVC material that would be air tight, require no sealing, and be more rigid than MDF? Gary Campbell you did something like this, right?

    I would rather abandon the MDF and do something else now if that is what needs to be done to make a reasonably permanent plenum board. But, if I just used faulty technique, I'm open to advice.

    Gerald

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Un-Employed Westminster, Ca
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    578

    Default

    Sorry to here the problem.
    Why don't you just throw a second sheet of plywood on the table and cut that. Some Baltic birch.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Creative 3D WoodArt, Dongola IL
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    Default

    Interesting idea Roger. I used Baltic Birch for the support board on my table - the stuff machines pretty nicely but I had trouble with long sections of the surface ply coming loose where I drilled by carriage bolt holes thru. Would I have to seal the Baltic Birch too?

    Gerald

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    Atlanta GA
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    1,499

    Default

    If you use Baltic Birch I don't believe you would have to seal it. Very dense wood and many layers of glue make it all but non-porous. I'd still seal around the outside edges just for good measure but I don't think you would loose any air through the bottom of the plenum with two layers of BB ply glued together.

    PVC is also a good choice if you can figure out how to bond it to the plywood base. A few folks have used a single layer of PVC instead of the plywood and MDF layers. If so I'd want to use 1" minimum thickness for stiffness.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    cnc routing, portland or
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    3,633

    Default

    I tired a poly finish to seal the mdf big mistake smelled for months. the fastest thing to sue is some thinned yellow glue brush it on and it is sealed in one coat and dries pretty fast too.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Creative 3D WoodArt, Dongola IL
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    Default

    Thanks for the feedback everyone...sounds like I made a mistake. Other ideas, anyone?

    Gerald

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Covenant Custom Cabinets, Camden SC
    Posts
    303

    Default

    Gerald,

    I've had mymdf plenum for 4 years with no problems at all. two or three good coats of polyurethane and your set. Kip

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Custom Interior Products, Lake Worth FL
    Posts
    162

    Default

    Gerald, I used a product call Extira, it is water proof MDF. It's made with resin glue instead of Formeldahide glue. It works just great and it isn't much more then regular MDF. It needs no sealing and is air tight.

    Mike

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    mcgrew woodwork, columbia south carolina
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    909

    Default

    i used an acrylic clear on mdf and it worked well,

    i was considering using phenolic on my next one as i found some in fla for under 500.00 per sheet but i did not think of exteria, thanks!!

    jim

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Creative 3D WoodArt, Dongola IL
    Posts
    130

    Default

    I like the Extira idea, is there any downside to this? No sealing would be a real advantage.

    Gerald

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