Some Aluminum Jobs

[pro70z28]

I thought I'd post some of the parts i've made for my "Z-28" project.
I may have posted some of these in the past, the older I get the less I remember. lol

This is the Bot cutting lift off hinges for the fiberglass doors
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...s5-10-07-1.jpg[/IMG]

Assorted parts
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...s5-10-07-2.jpg[/IMG]

Trial fit to see if all the parts work together
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0z28/Hinge.jpg[/IMG]

All the parts polished and bases welded to the hinge. Stainless pins & brass bushings will be made on the lathe nwext.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...hed9-15-08.jpg[/IMG]

Here's a video of the hinges completed & installed on the car.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/?action=view&current=camarospystuff.flv][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rospystuff.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[coach]

Gary, nice job. Care to share the details?
What tool, feed and speed?
What type aluminum was it and how thick.
I for one would like to produce parts like those.
Thanks for posting.
David

[pro70z28]

This is an aluminum brace for the rear end housing & shock mounts & for the four link brackets just cut on the Bot.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/8d8335b6.jpg[/IMG]

Here it is with the shock mounts attached. The shock mounts slide into a slot cut into the brace & then bolted together from the bottom.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/820b004c.jpg[/IMG]

Here is the assembly bolted in the chassis.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/38a7c78d.jpg[/IMG]

Here's the complete assembly. I made several mild steel parts for the rear end also. 4 link brackets, wheelie bar brackets, anti-roll bar brackets, etc. If I can find those pics. I'll post them later.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...lerrearlow.jpg[/IMG]

[pro70z28]

Hi Dave.
I'm not sure what type of aluminum it is. It's 3/4" thick. I bought it at scrap price from a steel supply store that sells used stuff by the pound out back. I cut it with a 1/4'' 2 flute up spiral carbide bit. If I remember right the travel speed was .005 & the Z speed was .005 also. I have a 3 phase Perske spindle that I run between 45 & 50 Hz. I don't have the conversion table to convert that to RPMs but it's pretty slow. I like to use water soluble oil (Runs much quieter/smoother). I just look for nice chip size & a cool bit & let it cut. It's not fast at all but I can say I designed & produced the parts in house. It's a hobby.

[Brady Watson]

Great work, Gary. You can crank the move speed up to around 1 to 1.5 IPS and the RPM to 13,000 to 15,000 with either a 2-flute straight end mill or a single flute spiral-O router bit. This will get your CNC and your spindle in their normal operating range. The CNC has a lot of motor resonance down low & the spindle has next to no torque and not enough RPM for cooling the motor if it is shaft driven. Ramped stepdown/entry of the bit will avoid problems. Air cooling of the bit is recommended. I also recommend adjusting your Slow Corner Speed in the VR setting to 20 or 30. Getting the correct tooling & running the tool & spindle at the recommended speeds will greatly improve your surface finish & your tooling will last longer.

-B

[rb99]

Nobody here uses a cutting fluid?

I bought a system caled the Fogbuster and it would send a very precise small stream of cutting fluid to the bit. I covered the table with a protective material that I used when cutting metals.

http://www.fogbuster.com/frame.htm

cuts are much better and bits last longer.

RB

[pro70z28]

Brady. How much material do you cut per pass at that speed? I've tried several speeds/RPM's and haven't had much luck going faster than what I posted above. Spindle cooling and low end torque haven't been a problem. The converter compensates for any load put on the spindle to keep the RPMs consistent.
Faster, cleaner cuts would be great.
Then I'll have to work on cutting mild steel faster. I run .02 x.02 cutting those parts.

These are pics. of some of the mild steel parts.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...28/Shobot1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/Shopbot3.jpg[/IMG]

I wasted cutting the first bracket when I discovered I had to change the mount location for the wheelie bar brackets so the bars would fit. Just a few hours cutting down the tubes.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...bly3-21-06.jpg[/IMG]

[pro70z28]

Richard. That looks like a nice cooling system. I don't do enough metal cutting to justify putting too much into a cooing system. I've cut some stuff dry also and have had decent luck with that also. I just haven't been able to speed up the cutting much wet or dry. Maybe I'm not using a good enough bit. I use mostly Freud & Bosch because they can be easily picked up locally. I do order out the 4 flute end mills I use for mild steel from Hemly Tool Supply.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...8/Shopbot3.jpg[/IMG]

[rb99]

I used to be next to a large fab shop. I learned about cutting and welding aluminum and magnesium.

Your product look great!

RB

[porscheman]

Though slightly off-topic, I'd like to know how many cubic inches of engine and rear-wheel HP/torque are going to be sent down to those big steam-roller tires??? Hopefully a 500+ cu-in big block!!

Project looks awesome, especially knowing you've fabricated many parts on your Bot. Would love to see more pictures as the project progresses and when the car comes out of the paint booth.

John