$10 shoe molding

[myxpykalix]

Heres my problem,putting the shopbot in my shop was like shoving a bulldog in a shoebox. I have no room for anything anymore. So trying to take my router table, setup supports for the stock to be held level was impossible. Take my word for it this was the easiest solution, 2 runs down the face and its done.

I was a bit concerned about the bearing but in my setup i lined it up to make a small cut to begin with then just bump it in with the "fixed" button and the bearing just barely touched.

I had recommended this program here before called "jpeg optimizer" from xat.com. I had a crash and lost everything so i had forgot about it. I remembered it and when and got it again.

Ed a indexer demo? You mean you're going to teach me? Cuz i don't know squat yet!

[ed_lang]

Jack,
You head up getting donations to buy me an Indexer so I can learn at night in the shop.... then I'll teach a class. :-)

[myxpykalix]

Daivid, you call it potato I call it pototo...lol, you're right. Sometimes i search for the word in my head and i can't find it (I think they call that senility!)
Please tell me how you are cutting your fronts out, that looks great. It looks to me like you have your design routed into the face already, how did you do that?
Then it looks like you have 5 fronts on the table did you design it to have enogh room to cut between each curve? Kind of reminds me of those "bombay chests" very nice.

[beacon14]

Jack, I did the same thing you did, ran a profile bit on the SB except on a curve. I drew the profile in DesignCad to determine the offset from the bit centerline to the reference surface of the part, created offset lines that distance from the final curve, and in VCarve used the Profile toolpath with "on" selected (same thing as Machine Along Vectors in PartWizard).

I created additional offsets 1/8" and 1/16" from the final toolpath and used those as roughing passes. I ran the final pass with a 1" bit on the melamine jig before securing the workpiece for clearance for the bit end and bearing and to help locate the workpiece on the jig. I also ran the final pass with a 1/2" straight bit to remove the waste from the workpiece before using the profile bit. There are five curved pieces on the workpiece so I could use one for getting the angles right. I had to cut one short to get the miter angles right using trial and error - they are not 45 degrees.

I was able to purchase curved doors but had to make curved raised panel drawer fronts using similar techniques as the supplier will not make curved parts that wide.


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[jay_p]

David,

I realize that this is rather off topic, but where do you buy those spring clamps like you have in the photo? Do they work well to clamp miter joints?

Jay

[beacon14]

Collins Tool

Hartville tool also sells them, I found them by searching for "spring miter clamps"

They do work well, I recommend you get the pliers too, they allow you to place (or remove) the clamps with one hand while you hold the workpiece with the other.

[jay_p]

Thanks David. I just ordered some clamps.

Jay

[beacon14]

Here are the completed nighttables, ready for finishing and marble tops.


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[paco]

Nice work as always David!

[myxpykalix]

Very very cool...that rounded front makes it really neat. Good job!