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Thread: Vacuum table motor connections

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Webb Signworks, Chipley FL
    Posts
    94

    Default Vacuum table motor connections

    I set up my vacuum table, and wired everything as shown. The electronic phase convertor(Autogen CD14) clicks on and I'm getting 118 to 119 volts from each of the three legs comming out of it. But either my magnetic starter isn't working or the motor isn't. I know the motor is not seized up. The magnetic strater is a Furnas ESP100 Cat# 14ESF32BA. Do I have all of this connected right?
    Thanks


    Here is the motor control with relay
    http://www.livewiresupply.com/MotorC...14ESF32BA.html


    35229.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    American Heritage Woodworks, Delta CO
    Posts
    124

    Default

    Wayne,

    In order to work, you must have a push button station connected to your magnetic starter. (It energizes a "holding coil" inside your starter.)

    The schematic will be similar to the attached pix.
    35233.jpg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Webb Signworks, Chipley FL
    Posts
    94

    Default

    So basicly, I need to just break the L1 leg, coming intot he starter, with a switch? And switching on the L1 leg activates the starter?
    Thanks

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    American Heritage Woodworks, Delta CO
    Posts
    124

    Default

    Yes but be sure it is a "start stop switch" specifically designed for magnetic starters. The switch energizes the starter coil (Circled M) which in turn slams shut all 4 contactors (marked M). This turns on the motor. When the stop button is pushed, the coil is then deenergized which opens all 4 contactors and turns off the motor.

    A simple test is to manually close the contactors by hand. Make sure ALL POWER IS OFF! when you do this. Use an ohmeter to check continuity between your L and T connections. The contactor is spring loaded so you won't be able to hold them closed for very long.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Webb Signworks, Chipley FL
    Posts
    94

    Default

    Tom,
    I was told that the 3 phase convertor only simulates 3 phase or "fools" the motor into thinking it's 3 phase. But the sensors in the magnetic starter is not "fooled". Will installing the push button switch solve the problem.

    I also have another taiwanese-made starter which has a green button on the starter and a red button on the overload relay. Does this have what it needs already built-in? The Furnas only has the reset button on the relay.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Retired, Scarborough Maine 04074
    Posts
    416

    Default

    Wayne,
    Looking up the motor controller, Tom is exactly correct that you need a Stop/Start station as he documented.

    Fooled: The motor is supplied by three separate lines (aka 3 phased) and each line is 120 degree out of phase from the others. Essentially, the motor has a requirement and the phase converted takes care of those requirements from a single phased system.

    Not to go crazy but single phase tends to be listed as 120/240 (aka... two legs of a 120V lines make up the 240 volts)

    Three phase is 120/208V which is taking two legs 120VAC but because they are out of phase by 120 degrees, you take the sin (120 degrees) * 120V * 2... the out of phase by 120 degrees REDUCES the voltage but provides much more consistent phasing.

    The motor controller does not knwo about or care about those requirements, it is only a group of switches.

    If you don't understand Tom's picture above or do not understand the concept of a start/stop station, then I would advise to hire any electrician for an hour.

    To reverse any three phase motor, just swap any 2 or the three input leads (which is what a reversing switch does )

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Webb Signworks, Chipley FL
    Posts
    94

    Default

    Thanks Tom and Bob!

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