best way to mount sign

[brian]

Here's a case where the owner has jumped the gun and is not thinking it through.
The concrete and brick work has been done before we had a chance to get proper mounting brackets made.
Now I'm faced with mounting this sign to this concrete and brick structure.
I'm thinking that 2x4 angle iron (painted) bolted to the concrete and a slot cut into the sign and through bolted should do it.
Is this a good way to mount a sign?
Also the black outer area is wider than the lighter area with the letters.(3.5" for black outer area and 2' for recessed area.)
Is it easiest to glue up one large blank and mill out the recessed area or make the two parts separate form each other.
The letters will be milled out of PVC
I guess I should ask what is the preferred method of attaching the pvc letters?
They are to be attached directly to the wood,so the options would be to recess the wood(around .25)or attach to the surface.

Thanks Brian

[bleeth]

Well that's a lot of questions there but I'll see what I can do.
First: I would make two signs and mount them back to back with a framework between them so it is thicker. This would allow me to make a dado recess where it goes against the brick. Instead of using L brackets on the post I would use french cleats so the sign slid down on them. At the bottom I would also have a dado and screw a long square tube on the bottom brick that would keep the sign centered. I would use epoxy as an adhesive to hold it all in place permanently, or, if I wanted it removeable at some point, some screws at the bottom (stainless steel) countersunk, filled, and touched up. You can adhere the PVC with 3M 5200. Whether I built the border up or cut the pieces would depend on what I was making the sign out of. If it were HDU I would make the center frame out of aluminum and for the edges that showed either fiberglass tape and epoxy or bondo. If it were all wood I'd probably still make it framed in the middle rather than massive. Make sure there is a way for moisture to drain and seal the backs well.
Don't use black PVC for the letters or anything else. Use white and paint it. Cut pockets for the letters so it is easy to align and set them as well as pre-finish.
The signs themselves could also be PVC.

It's a good size sign and to make it really last will take some work. Hopefully you have a good budget!

Assuming the font for Gibson's and the logo are already set due to his general logo I would still increase their size thereby decreasing the white space above and increase readability.

Added comment: I would imagine for wood you are planning on using cedar.

[brian]

Thanks Dave
I live in the land of Red Cedar(Vancouver BC)so yes it'll be made of Cedar.
They specified the sign to be 3-4" thick so I was planning on gluing up some clear 4x4 use four galvanized ready rod to add rigidity and add the black trim after.
I'm curious as too why you'd do two single sided signs instead of one thicker sign.
I do have to be concerned about moisture here.It's probably the biggest issue we have to deal with.
I have a budget of 5 grand.
Cedar is cheap here so I figure materials will come in less than 1 grand.
The base is already built so that's not part of the budget.

Brian

[bleeth]

I like the sandwich concept as I think it would look better thicker. If It is done out of 4 x 4's with the edge added you can still use the french cleat and square cleat thing to make the attachment system invisible and I always think that is the nicest look except when the attachment system becomes part of the design affect.