sanding issue's

[scottp55]

Thanks for bring that up Bill. I forgot to mention that. Sometimes in VCarving we'll add a whole separate toolpath using the same exact bit but grab the tool from a separate category we made in the tool database we labelled"XXX FULLDEPTH SKINPASS" meant ONLY for a clean up pass with ridiculous settings like 1/8" 60vbit with a pass depth of .7" and a 3.5,1.5,16K so it's doing nothing but cutting "fuzz" and bit deflections. Especially on sugar maple.

[Brian Harnett]

This kit from harbor freight comes in handy for cleaning up fuzzy spots the grit is pretty fine.
http://www.harborfreight.com/50-piec...set-69665.html

[POPS 64]

Lot's of good information guys ,lots of things to try and think about . I hate to admit I never really considered wood grain direction . not being a computer person until this I guess I probably focus on things not as important . but iam getting more comfortable all the time. I guess thats why I finally decided to try the forum . here's a few picts.

[Roy Harding]

I often run the toolpath, shellac the piece in place on the machine, then run the toolpath again. It takes more machine time, but saves me labour time as the sanding required is close to nil.

[scottp55]

Especially like the bear Jeff. I'll let other people chime in but we've had best luck roughing against the grain, and finishing with(but we're newbies and just using some advice we got). Good info-nice people here.

[magic]

Here's another approach.
I use an oversize bit in a Hog Out scenario. The difference is .05 above the desired artwork.

Then I employ the old technique of wetting the wood and purposely wetting the grain (raising it) and when the smaller correct size bit makes the finishing pass, the fuzzies are not as prevalent.

Sometimes I'll mist the piece with water again before using all various sanders and hand swirling the sandpaper that's wrapped around different dowell rods.

I have also used a 3D spiral toolpath starting in the center THEN running the ssme file using the 3D spiral toolpath starting from the outside.

The direction of the grain and species needs to be respected and adjusted for. If the wood blank was cut near the outside of the tree and the grain is loose and fluffy you might not get the same results as harder interior woods where the grain stands straight up.

Finally, for small projects, I'll use two different bits with different geometry on the ball, rerunning the file and changing the stopover.

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Did I mention that I hardly ever turn a profit because of all the wasted time?

[Burkhardt]

For real tight spots I like the Proxxon Pen Sander and attach a fiberglass scrub stick with tape. I wish the Proxxon had a more elegant way of mounting it but it does work quite well. It removes fuzz easily without destroying the detail (not suited for volume removal of materials) The sticks are cheap and last for a while. Unlike sand paper they don't clog . Minor disadvantage is the itch from the fiberglass fragments. There are brass wire brushes of the same size but I have not tried that.

[cowboy1296]

I would not buy a pen sander to try the fiberglass brushes, but i own the pen sander already. I might just to try the brushes that you recommended G. Burkhardt. Thanks for the tip.

[bcondon]

You talked about reducing the stepover.. A second thought is what wood are you using? Poplar and Boxwood are good for carving because of the lack of grain but they fuzz up a lot.. You may want to look at other wood choices.... I like boxwood over poplar. I use the square sanding blocks and use the edges and corners of the block.... Enough block to hold onto but fine enough to get into the scallop shell grooves...

Thanks
Bob

[POPS 64]

I do a lot of carvings with hickory , bloodwood , and walnut , but i've been getting a lot of request's forcedar , pine , and different maples all fuzzy nightmares. I'll have to try popalaralot of that here but haven't seen any boxwood. thanks for input