Steve, just another bandsaw. May not work for your application but is interesting.
http://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/pr...179137871.html
Steve, just another bandsaw. May not work for your application but is interesting.
http://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/pr...179137871.html
It would seem to me that rather then having the whole jig have to roll back and forth that you could make it so that you have a sled that held the log and moved it past the blade line in a miter slot kind of like a meat slicer
Words of Wisdom:
“Words that sink into your ears are whispered…… not yelled”
“The biggest trouble maker you’ll probably ever have to deal with, watches you from the mirror every morn’n”
“The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth”
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Just remember...when it's time for the hearse to pull up..there's no luggage rack on top!
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The beauty of the Second Amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it...Thomas Jefferson
Crosscutting logs? You need a biiiig chopsaw. Seriously, much quicker than a bandsaw for smaller diameters like the coasters.
You can buy a huge circle saw blade like the sawmills use and set up a dedicated crosscutter with a log sled. Just make sure the motor is strong enough.
Depending on how far you wanted to go you could push/pull the sled with steppers or hydraulics.
First woodshop I worked in made cable spools and the area where logs were processed into the planks was the old fashioned one big motor, shaft, and leather belts to drive everything.
They had several 24" blades in a row that came down and crosscut all at once. Scary looking till you got used to it. Logs were mostly slash pine so the diameters weren't huge. Not exactly fine woodworking stuff.
On refacing we just use a piece of ply with appropiate holes, drop in stuff to be sanded and run it thru the drum sander. Only used square stuff but it should work with cookies. If it lifts I would add a bit of vacuum to each cavity.
Buddy BT48 with 6' power stick
2.2 HSD Spindle
Aspire 9.5
6" ShopBot Indexer
Steve,
How were you finishing those?
Tried my normal 50/50 citrus solvent/polymerized Linseed and the thinner took Black Walnut heartwood/bark color and got into the sapwood for a noticeable lack of contrast
Thinking 100% polymerized Tung, but worried cracks and crevices in bark will be sticky.
Not to worried about the coaster sized ones I'm playing with, but hoping to hand saw some of the larger ones from my Aunt's tree for 3D display stands, and they'll have to be NICE. NEED to buy a resaw!
Thanks
scott
scott P.
2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 12.0*
Maine
Kills me the things people will pay for! Usually fads that start in the USA end up here 6 months later......haven't seen that here yet but I better get cracking slicing up my firewood in anticipation
Buddy 48 Standard with 2.2 Hp Spindle with standard and 6' stick. Aspire 10.5
2.2Hp universal 4 zone Vac Table
Scott:
sorry about taking so long to answer... we're roaming around the country in our camper, staying away from the Dallas heat!
I never put any finish on any of my cookies, not at the price we were getting!
let me know what you land up doing in case I ever need to!
SG
No problem Steve
If you land anywhere near southern Maine, there's a water/electric hookup(or a California King and Master Bath) waiting for you on a Beaver pond
Funny, I coated the ends of that B.Walnut that had been cut down 4 days before with Linseed/beeswax and had no checking as expected, but also had zero checking on the 5 3/8" slices I did absolutely nothing to. BUT the 12" remnant of the branch I cut them off of checked like crazy in just 3 days with nothing on it?
Getting a few more branches today, and some firewood sized chunks tomorrow for displays.
Keep you posted.
scott
A Reverse "Snowbird"
scott P.
2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 12.0*
Maine