Sign Makers: is starboard viable for cabinetry?

[jTr]

Wild idea, but thought I'd ask. Can anyone recommend a sign board material such as starboard, etc, that could be used for cabinetry? Has anyone done so?

Here's why: Client wants a game-processing kitchen in new garage, and would find it optimal if they were able to literally hose down the countertops/cabinets for cleaning. I recommended Stainless steel commercial kitchen fixtures a few months ago. They are back to asking about cabinets with a stainless top - Best I can think of for durability and low maintenance would be melamine with at least 1mil edge-band, and possibly thermo-foil doors. (Of course, no garden-hose clean-ups!)

However, I've recently noticed some bath stalls in truck-stops now using what appears to be starboard or similar sign material.
I am strictly a cabinet shop, so hoping some of the sign makers could chime in on:
- Viability of some of the exterior, solid plastic sheeting - is it rigid enough to maintain flatness for cabinets?
- Resources? Is cost going to compare to stainless steel when all's said and done?


Thanks,

jeff

[Brady Watson]

My boat has King Starboard for the head door and frame that holds the door. It works fine. The shower hoses it down all the time...The cabinet doors and console on the sundeck are also KS, as well as the swim platform.

You can use Starboard or Playboard. It's not cheap, but not nearly the price of SS, Sq Ft to Sq Ft comparison.

Here's my pricing on it:


54" x 8' x 3/8" | White | Masked
King StarBoard - Marine Plastic Sheet
Price: $176.94 ea


54" x 8' x 1/2" | White | Masked
King StarBoard - Marine Plastic Sheet
Price: $263.09 ea


54" x 8' x 3/4" | White | Masked
King StarBoard - Marine Plastic Sheet
Price: $392.30 ea

-B

[Mark Farris]

We have had some outdoor summer kitchens made with it and it is great. It is expensive as Brady indicated, very heavy, and can sag in longer runs without support. I have made some water test stations out of it for a friend who owns a pool store. I pocket screwed it all together and it was great. King even has a routed cabinet door program now.

Mark

[bleeth]

Makes excellent outdoor cabinets as long as they are not engineered for long unsupported horizontal elements.
Also note that they don't mix well with BBQ inserts. (At least I wouldn't)
Fastening methods need extra care. Did some one time for a boat that were designed as mortise and tennon.

[gundog]

I make lots of parts from Starboard & Seaboard they are virtually the same product and cost they are just different manufacturers. Everything that has been said so far is spot on. I will add it can be glued to add extra hold with 3M epoxy 8005. I would not glue joints that are just edge glued but it will bond to pieces together with the textured surfaces so tight you will pretty much destroy the material getting it back apart. I like working with it you can go to my web site and see some of the stuff I make with it.

Mike

[Brady Watson]

Mike,
Thanks for the tip on the epoxy. I'm glad to see and hear there is a good adhesive solution for this stuff. If you are recommending it, I know it has to be good.

-B

[gc3]

What sealants and adhesives are recommended for King StarBoard?

BoatLIFE® LifeCaulk® works well to replace old or worn caulking. Before caulking, the surface should be prepared by abrading it with medium-grit sandpaper, then cleaning it with acetone, toluene or alcohol.
King StarBoard®, King StarBoard® ST, King ColorCore®, King ColorBoard® and King CuttingBoard® can not be glued using standard adhesives. Products like 3M’s 5200 work well as a water sealing caulk but will not adhere King StarBoard® to itself or other materials in a permanent bond. It is preferable to mechanically fasten or weld King StarBoard®, but when an adhesive is necessary you can use a product called Lord 7542-AB or 3M’s Scotch-Weld DP-8005. We do not represent these products, or make any claims about their abilities or accept liability for them.
Lord 7542-AB can be purchased from several retailers, we would suggested doing on online search.
Can adhesives be used to bond King StarBoard® ?

We are frequently asked how to apply and use adhesives with our products. We want to remind you that generally, bonding polyethylene with adhesives does not result in a permanent structural bond, like mechanical fastening or welding. Please determine the suitability of using an adhesive yourself with proper testing. Again, we do not represent these products, or make any claims about their abilities or accept liability for them.

• If you need to use an adhesion process, make sure you have everything you need for the treating.
• A sheet of one hundred and twenty-grit sandpaper.
• A cleaning solvent such as Acetone, Toluene or Alcohol, and a propane torch
• Your selected adhesive of choice and appropriate clamps to secure the bonded parts without damaging the finish of the King StarBoard®.
• Proper surface preparation of your polymer is critical when using adhesives.
• First, lightly sand the King StarBoard surfaces to be bonded with one hundred and twenty grit sandpaper. Now, clean the surface with a solvent, such as Acetone, Tolulene or Alcohol. Allow solvent to fully evaporate. Move solvent and other flammable liquids and materials away from work area.
• Following the operating cautions of your propane torch, ignite the flame.
• Working in a safe and well-ventilated area, hold the torch so the flame is approximately one to two inches (or two and a half to five centimeters) away and the blue, oxidizing portion of the flame is on the King StarBoard surface to be bonded. Pass the flame over the surface at a rate of approximately twelve inches (or thirty centimeters) per three seconds.
• Total time the material should be exposed to the flame should be two to three seconds, about one half second per stroke.
• This light exposure should not deform or melt the polymer in any way. You may see a “shadowing” effect as the flame passes across the surface, this is normal.
• Make sure to let the polymer cool before proceeding.
• Test the effectiveness of your flame treatment of the surface by wetting it with water.
• If the water beads up like on the surface of a freshly waxed car, the treatment was not effective. If the water “sheets” or lays flat on the surface, like on an un-waxed car, the treatment was effective and the surface is ready for bonding. If you are unsure if the surface is ready, compare the water’s action on treated area with the untreated area.
• For the best adhesion, bond the product within thirty minutes of treatment as the flame treatment is temporary and declines in effectiveness with time. If you get interrupted and cannot complete the bonding within an hour or two then you should re-treat the surface again before proceeding.
• Then following the instructions from the adhesive manufacturer apply the glue evenly to the surface in a back and forth motion, generally hold back from spreading the adhesive all the way to the edge to avoid making a mess.
• Apply the pieces to be bonded together, making sure they are positioned correctly then lightly clamp in place. Ideally wipe off any excess adhesive that may have squeezed out before it cures.
• Let the bond cure for the manufacturers recommended time frame before removing the clamps.

we've done a lot of outdoor cabs for exterior kitchens, bbq areas and yacht work with starboard...tried the glue thing but stopped because its a nightmare, mechanical assembly works best for us...

some yacht stuff photos