Epoxy: Sherwin-Williams "Macropoxy 646 Fast Cure Epoxy" B58-600 Part A, B58V600 Part B hardener. Paid $135 for a two gallon set. Due to cost, I skipped on main floor, and only covered the 22x32 floor in my finishing room, which I recall was a single, very heavy coat for max coverage. Amazing durability, tint-able, and is quite necessary if you use a plastic floor protectant in a finishing room as I do.

Consider this: Many other floor paints available, but You will likely only do this once, so it's worth the bucks for the good stuff.

Also: Second all of DLCW's comments on the radiant heat. You'll have to lay out the tubing on top of current concrete floor, loosely fastened/tamed, then pour a couple inches of fresh concrete over it.
If you DIY it, call / visit the Radiant Company out of Vermont. VERY reasonable kit pricing - did my 42x64 shop a couple years ago with 7/8" ID tubing for max flow, and recall it was about the same price as a properly sized Reznor ceiling hanging shop heater. Approximately $2,500 for 1,000 ft tubing (five 200ft circuits), bench-assembled manifold and recirculation set, including $1k tankless hot water heater. Just call a plumber if you'd rather not sweat it all together yourself. NO comparison in terms of quality/evenness of heat, plus the safety already mentioned.

As for dust collection in floor, even more work, plus significant loss of headroom as you'll likely need to raise it 5-7" depending on the duct work. LOTS more fuss and accessories needed to get radiant working properly under a wooden deck also. Concrete and radiant are a prime pairing.

FWIW
Good luck!

Jeff