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Thread: Mdf doors

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    River Fall WI
    Posts
    796

    Default Mdf doors

    I'm going to be making painted mdf doors using Blum hinges and I'm wondering the order of doing things with the bot.
    Plan number 1:
    Cut out the door sand, prime and paint and then run it on the bot to make the hinge holes.
    Plan number 2:
    Same as 1, but do all the bot work first and then paint.

    My concern with plan 1 is I will ding the finish when I go back on the bot.

    My concern with plan 2 is that if I don't get them sprayed right away the hinge holes will swell up and the hinges will not fit, or the primer and paint will be too thick and the hinges will and fit.

    Sooo, what to do?
    Kyle Stapleton
    River Falls Renaissance Academy
    Math/Technology Education Teacher


    PRS Alpha 96x60 2.2 hp spindle, Double Air drills, 6" indexer, Fein 5 zone vac table
    Desktop w/spindle
    Potter Pen
    Aspire 8.5, Creo 3.0

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Harbour Grace Newfoundland
    Posts
    771

    Default

    We make the door first paint then at the end drill 35 mill holes I have blue max machine which is for heitch or a blum machine for blum

    You can set a drill press with a 35 mm bit that's what i used before the machine you get the setting for the hinge .I usually keep about an eight of an inch back from the edge of the door the depth is the hinge

    Its confusing at first after a couple its easy

    I guess you could use the bot for the hole after but it would be impractical in a shop environment

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Delray Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,708

    Default

    For our doors we punch the hinges before painting. I've never had a problem setting the hinge afterwards. Like Kevin; before I had a Blum machine, I just set up my drill press to do it.
    I made a table with a back fence and clamp it to the press table. Bring down the bit just enough to lightly mark the surface and transfer the center to the fence. Then you can mark the center on your door and go for it. If your bores are all consistent (like 3 1/2") I've screwed a couple butt hinges to the fence to act as quick stops. Down and dirty but works like a charm.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    River Fall WI
    Posts
    796

    Default

    Thanks for the info.
    I think I will do all the bot work first (have the bot and do not want to buy the bits just yet).
    Kyle Stapleton
    River Falls Renaissance Academy
    Math/Technology Education Teacher


    PRS Alpha 96x60 2.2 hp spindle, Double Air drills, 6" indexer, Fein 5 zone vac table
    Desktop w/spindle
    Potter Pen
    Aspire 8.5, Creo 3.0

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Gainesville Florida
    Posts
    128

    Default

    Kyle,
    Like Dave I live here in the Florida heat and humidity...and have an air-conditioned shop. I make a lot of MDF doors for the construction company I manage and other local cabinetmakers. I drill all mine on a Blum machine and deliver them raw to the jobsites. They are painted in non-air conditioned conditions and we have never had a problem with any hinge cups not fitting due to swelling.

    Thanks,
    Mark

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    575

    Default

    I do same as guys above. I don't have a blum machine but have my drill press setup and dedicated to drilling the 35 hinge holes. I have never done them on the bot but if you have more than just a few doors it will take you allot longer to setup, draw and cut the holes on the cnc. I tend to look at what needs to be done and if the bot can do it faster or better then it goes on the bot. If not I use my other shop tools. I bet you would save enough time on your drill press to more than pay for the bit. I have seen a installer even drill them with a regular drill with some scrap taped to the dril on 2 sides to get the depth without going too deep or threw the face of the door. I cut allot of mdf doors for other shops as well and have never had a issue with swelling or problems.

    Cheers,

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    197

    Default

    I'm also building some MDF doors right now and I'm noticing a slight bow in the doors. Below is a picture of the style and the middle is pocketed out 5/16" deep. Should I be carving a relief pocket on the back of the door?

    Capture.JPG

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    River Fall WI
    Posts
    796

    Default

    Mine were dead flat. Will post some pictures soon.
    In Disneyworld with the family.
    Kyle Stapleton
    River Falls Renaissance Academy
    Math/Technology Education Teacher


    PRS Alpha 96x60 2.2 hp spindle, Double Air drills, 6" indexer, Fein 5 zone vac table
    Desktop w/spindle
    Potter Pen
    Aspire 8.5, Creo 3.0

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Timmins, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,825

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pkirby View Post
    I'm also building some MDF doors right now and I'm noticing a slight bow in the doors. Below is a picture of the style and the middle is pocketed out 5/16" deep. Should I be carving a relief pocket on the back of the door?

    Capture.JPG
    I think pocketing one side has a lot more risk for a bowing to develop than doing it on both sides.

    I'd like to try this, and then finish the doors immediately and see what happens. Like, go from the router to prime/paint in the same day.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    197

    Default

    I did a little experiment and laid the doors on my tablesaw top which I know is flat. I put one door face down and the other door back down. After sitting overnight both had curled up along their outside edges like a potato chip. Probably only 1/32". No big deal, but that leads me to believe the original bowing was because I was not storing them on racks to where air could circulate around them.

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