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  #1  
Old 08-18-2005, 11:05 AM
Jon Lawrence jlawren6 is offline
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Location: , Greenfield IN
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Default Clear sealer with latex paint?

To start off, I know next to nothing about finishing. I just recently got my shopbot and am making my first V-carved sign. It's a fairly simple display plaque for one of my Dad's antique tractors that won't see much, if any, serious outside elements.

I decided to just use a decent exterior latex paint for the finish. One color for the base and one for the lettering. There was no time to get a mask shipped here and play with that for this sign (short notice) so me and my wife are brushing in the letter paint by hand. This, by the way, is the last time I will do it this way. A mask and spraying has to be better....

Now to my question. Is there a suitable clear finish that I could spray/brush/roll over the entire sign to give it an added level of protection and that won't react with the latex paint or yellow? I ask, because we are not getting as good of paint coverage in the letters as the base and the extra protection there would be helpful I think. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

Jon
  #2  
Old 08-18-2005, 12:53 PM
Dale Kerr kerrazy is offline
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Jon,
What kind of latex paint are you using? Brand, colour etc?
  #3  
Old 08-18-2005, 02:08 PM
Jon Lawrence jlawren6 is offline
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Dale - For the base color and the wood border around the sign, I'm using Behr Premium exterior latex that I bought at Home Depot. The base color is dark gray (several coats on both sides of MDF) and the border is black (frame made from poplar). For the letters I used some apple red Rustoleum exterior latex that I already had. The Red and Gray theme is to match the tractor (Massey Ferguson). All of the colors are gloss.

My parents kinda threw this at me on short notice and that's the best I could come up with to get it done in time for the show this weekend. I'd wish I had more time to plan a little more and select everything before starting. Just not the case this time.

Did I leave anything out?
  #4  
Old 08-18-2005, 02:29 PM
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Dave Rosenbleeth bleeth is offline
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A water-based clear should be ok. It can also be found at Home Depot. Please test it on a scrap first.

Dave
  #5  
Old 08-18-2005, 07:48 PM
Don Chapman donchapman is offline
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Location: Chapman Carved Signs, Elgin TX
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I wouldn't put a sealer over 100% acrylic latex paint. Most of the manufacturers give 10-20+year warranties that would probably be voided by adding a sealer. I've never seen such a recommendation for sealing over latex from a sign professional nor manufacturer. Latex paints should be allowed to breathe and not be overcoated. Over the past 15 years I've swithched from oil based paint to 100%acrylic latex paints for almost all my signs. The durability and color retention is great and I no longer have the mildew problems that I had with oil based paints (mildew feeds on linseed oil in oil based paints).
  #6  
Old 08-19-2005, 07:51 AM
Dale Kerr kerrazy is offline
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Jon,
Go find your self a print making roller, at any art store. It is a hard rubber roller.
Fill in your carved letters and let them dry.

Get a samll scrap of smooth material, like acrylic, coroplast, something very smooth, to use as a paint pallette, pour out you background colour (proper spelling of colour for you americans LOL)and roll it onto your print roller so it is a very light coat, then roll the surface of your sign. The hard roller with a small amount of paint will prevent the paint from dropping in the carved areas. as you will have only a small amount of paint on the roller you will have to repeat the application a few times to get good coverage. any paint that drops into the carved areas now will be just a quick touch up.
any questions just give me a ring toll free @ 866-770-4775.
Dale
  #7  
Old 08-19-2005, 08:25 AM
Jon Lawrence jlawren6 is offline
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Thanks to everybody for the info. I decided to pass on the sealer and just stick with the latex. After another couple of passes on the lettering, we managed to get an acceptable amount of coverage. A little touch-up and it turned out well for an amateur first project. I'd post a pic, but it pales in comparison to what you guys make. We'll see what is said about it when it goes on display this weekend at the show.

Don - Interesting info on the latex versus oil.

Dale - Thanks for the tip on the hard roller. Something to keep in mind for the next one.

One more general question, I've read that you should use a high solids content latex if possible. I have no idea how Behr stacks up in those regards. Could anyone enlighten me or throw out a few suggestions for another manufacturer and paint line (i.e. Porter, Benjamin Harrison, etc.)?

After doing this, I have even more respect for you guys who do this for a living. Obviously, I have a LOT to learn.

Thanks again,

Jon
  #8  
Old 08-19-2005, 10:28 AM
Dale Kerr kerrazy is offline
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PPG has an industrial Acrylic Enamel thatI find works real well.
it is a 100% acrylic Satin DTM Industrial Enamel 90 series.
It flows nicley, and covers well.
You will have to find an industrial paint supplier, such as a paint supplier for contractors.
Dale
  #9  
Old 08-19-2005, 01:17 PM
Bud Jenkins bjenkins is offline
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Dale,

I remember you mentioning the paint you use at the Jamboree. I checked my notes and I must not have written it down. Is the PPG acrylic your paint of choice? How fast does it dry? Have you tried acryic lacquers-- for exterior signs? Thanks to anyone else who has thoughts on something better than exterior acrylic latex. The dry time is a major limiter for jobs with a few colors.
  #10  
Old 08-19-2005, 06:28 PM
Dale Kerr kerrazy is offline
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I let about 24 hours in between coats, so it has a good adhesion to the surface below, otherwise it just get wet again and lifts.
Dale
 

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