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myxpykalix
10-13-2010, 03:37 AM
I'm making a "castle bed" for a little girl and the bedposts are watchtower columns and the footboard and heardboard and the columns will have a vcarved brick pattern to simulate the walls and bricks and i need advice on the what would be the best thing to paint the pine columns and plywood walls to give it as realistic look as possible. I want a greyish color and want to make it look "worn", and not like a new wall but i am not a painter and have no artistic ability. So any advice you give be as detailed and specific as you can to help me understand.:)
thanks

chiloquinruss
10-13-2010, 10:29 PM
Finally a question that I may be able to give a little input on! :) The following procedure should be tried after you try it first on a practice piece! :) Paint the columns the grey you want for the grout. Let it dry good. Next with the grey you want the bricks to be 'dry sponge' paint the bricks. Dry sponge is simply putting a little paint on some newpaper and take the sponge and dab into the paint on the newspaper (it takes very little paint) and then gently dab the sponge on the brick. Do this in several very light coats to keep from forcing the paint into your routed grout grooves (wow that's a tongue twister) :) If you goof, simply start over with the grout grey. Let this all dry completely. Next take some colored chalk that you can get from your local craft store and gently color the bricks with a lvery light down stroke starting from the top to the bottom of the columns. Use a dry brush to work the colors into the finish until you get the result you were looking for. The 'weathering stains' should be lighter at the top and more earthy towards the bottom. When complete, very-very-very lightly overspray with some clear sealer to keep the chalk where you want it. The spray will dilute the chalk somewhat but not all that much after it dries. The sealer can either be flat or some other finish depending on the look you want. As always it's best to this on a test piece until you get comfortable with the process. If you have a good hobby shop in your area they will have some excellent books/magazines on weathering. You can also google 'weathering techniques for models'. Have fun and please post some pix of this fun project. Russ

jdervin
10-13-2010, 11:11 PM
To Russ' method, I would suggest the use of a natural sea sponge and not one of the human-manufactured variety.

jdervin
10-13-2010, 11:26 PM
Jack--

I've seen pamphlets showing examples and giving how-to sponge instructions at both Sherwin Williams and Martin Senour. I was unable to find online versions from either of those two companies. I did see that Sherwin Williams is having a nationwide free faux painting workshop this Saturday morning (10/16/2010). If there's one in your neighborhood, you might call and see if they're going to demonstrate any sponging techniques. Once you learn it, you'll love it and want to use it on everything!

Here's a link to the SW workshop:
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/fauxworkshop/

myxpykalix
10-14-2010, 12:49 AM
Russ,
Because i don't understand every step, i'm going to discect each step with a question if needed...

Paint the columns the grey you want for the grout.

this means ONLY paint the grout lines?

Next with the grey you want the bricks to be 'dry sponge' paint the bricks.

Using the dry sponge method you described you mean to paint the bricks the color i want. Now should it be a darker grey then the color used for the grout?

What is confusing is that you are saying DO NOT paint the whole column in a primer of grey but do the grout and bricks as seperate elements?


Next take some colored chalk that you can get from your local craft store and gently color the bricks with a very light down stroke starting from the top to the bottom of the columns. Use a dry brush to work the colors into the finish until you get the result you were looking for.

What color chalk? Taking the chalk and coloring the column then drybrush, won't the chalk just sit on the surface and then come off with the brush?


The 'weathering stains' should be lighter at the top and more earthy towards the bottom. When complete, very-very-very lightly overspray with some clear sealer to keep the chalk where you want it. The spray will dilute the chalk somewhat but not all that much after it dries. The sealer can either be flat or some other finish depending on the look you want.

I think i understand that part. Keep in mind this is being painted over pine and cabinet grade plywood.

thanks

chiloquinruss
10-14-2010, 11:22 AM
Paint the columns the grey you want for the grout.

This can be grey primer and yes paint the whole column not just the grout lines.

[I]Next with the grey you want the bricks to be 'dry sponge' paint the bricks.

If you were making a model of a chimney this color would be red instead of a different grey

What color chalk? Taking the chalk and coloring the column then drybrush, won't the chalk just sit on the surface and then come off with the brush?

Birds sit on the top of columns and do their duty. The rain will wash that duty down the facade. Rain hitting the ground will slash some dirt up on the wall from the bottom edge. The brush will in fact wipe some chalk off but the wood surface (even though it is primed) will take on 'some' of the colors. I use white and grey and lighter colors up high. I use darger grey, black (charcoal), and browns for the base (bottom) colors. There is no right or wrong way to do this. If you don[t feel comfortable using the chalk, dirty thinner washes work just about as well as the chalk method. Take some clean thinner and add a little paint to the thinner making a colored wash. Dry brush the wash onto the item to be weathered. Similar results to the chalk, just a different way of doing it. I personaly like the chalk but have used the wash method on really rough textured pieces.

I think i understand that part. Keep in mind this is being painted over pine and cabinet grade plywood.

Yep and you are routing in the grout lines. If you want more texture you can also run a sanding block over the routed bricks making some of them slightly misformed and not so mechanical. The sponge adds texture also. It s all about lights and darks, light and shadows, eye candy. Make a demo piece and just play with it for a while you will very quickly develop your own methods and will be amazed at the results.

Remember there is no right or wrong way to do this. Have fun and enjoy. Russ