V-bits for cedar

[Stagecraft]

Wondering what v-bits others are having consistant success with when routing cedar.
This job calls for some fairly intricate text V-carved to a depth of .375" with a 60° bit.
I've been using off the shelf Freud straight cut double flute bits with good, but not great results. - Boyd

[frankwilliams]

Hi Boyd,

I have found that it depends on whether you are 'routing in', or doing 'raised letters'. I have had really good results with the centurion V-bits (centuriontools.com) when 'routing in' letters and detail. When doing raised letter style V-carve, I have not yet found a consistent way to get good results (no blowout). Cedar is a tough one because it seems to want to 'flake off' at the grain. Maybe some of the long time sign guys have a solution for this.

I should be clear that the problem I have is not cut quality, but more to do with the 'blowout' of thin bits of material left on the sign.

Cool to see someone in Squamish, I was born there. Beautiful place.

Frank

[ajf]

If someone does have a good v-bit for cedar I would like to know as well. I've tried a variety of bits at different cutting speeds and depths. But still get chip out. The best thing I've found is putting a good coat of clear sealer on the wood prior to cutting and it seems get cut down on some of the chip out but not all of it.

[dlcw]

Amana interchangeable carbide blades in 30 deg, 60 deg, 90 deg.

http://www.toolstoday.com/c-454-in-groove-cnc-insert-engraving-tool-body-replacement-knives.aspx

I run at 12K RPM with 1 ips feed speed. I get really good results in WRC.

[Stagecraft]

Thanks for the replies!
Those Amana bits look interesting.
Al, I've tried the sealer trick with fir and it works quite well, but these pieces are meant to be left unfinished with no sealers, oil or paint and because of the fine detail I don't think sanding the sealer off afterwards is an option.
Frank, these graphics are cut into the blank, and yes the problem I'm having is with blowout of smaller pieces, and thats the second time I've heard somebody mention Centurion bits.
Anybody in British Columbia carrying them or is it all online sales?
Squamish has been a great place to raise our kids, we moved up here as North Vancouver refugees eighteen years ago, I don't know if you'd recognize the place now!

[blackhawk]

Boyd - Centurion sales all their stuff online. They are a small shop and very customer friendly. 90% of my cutters come from them.
http://www.centuriontools.com/

In cedar, I do have a little more success with the CMT 60º Vbit. I bought mine from Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/CMT-858-501-11-Cutting-Diameter-16-Inch/dp/B000P4JOOY The CMT bit has some relief cut into its cutting edge. I get cleaner cuts in cedar with this bit, but blowout is still a problem, maybe just a little better. That is the one downfall with cedar. Well, besides that it costs an outrageous amount in my neck of the woods.

[Stagecraft]

Thanks Brad, I'll place an order today.
I'm lucky that cedar is almost considered a weed around here.
It also helps to have a friend with a cedar mill http://www.ajforest.com/
Now if I could just make friends with somebody who owns a teak mill...hmmm.

[joe]

http://E\Galyean2Boyd,

I'm sure this job has come and gone but here is my impression.

Western Cedar doesn't seem to respond well to V bits. Due to it's loose grain, there will often be fuzz in the well of letters. I've had some luck by spraying a little shellac down in the well after carving. Once dry a second pass will clean out some of the debris. As you know shellac can be wiped off with alchohol.

I used this technique on my post under Signs, "Finishing Rough Cedar". On those panels I used "Dr. Crumley's rootin tootin snane oil mask. That's nothing more than rubber cement which is removed with premask. It's designed as a mask for rough wood surfaces.

Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)