View Full Version : Splicing base layer
03-15-2011, 10:23 AM
I've just finished assembling my PRSalpha 5'x10' machine, and I'm having a tough time finding a 5'x10' sheet of hardwood for my base layer. I've read that using (2) 5'x5' sheets and supporting it underneath the splice is a viable option, but I was wondering what would be the best way to support this type of configuration? Also, what's the best way to splice the two sheets of hardwood?
03-15-2011, 12:43 PM
Any ideas fellow shopbotters?
03-15-2011, 12:48 PM
It'll cost you more but you can get PVC that size easier in some areas.
For support if there isn't already a cross bar there you can add one or screw and glue a butt block as big as will fit between the nearest two cross supports.
If you don't mind losing a little z height you can put lengths of rectangular channel or tubing the long way (aluminum or steel) and put your 5 x 5's on that.
Alternately you can take 5 x 10 MDF or PB and throw some laminate on both sides. That will be good and stiff and as long as you seal the edges nice and stable
01-31-2012, 11:17 PM
contact a plywood wholesaler. You would be surprised what size sheets they have. Your local lumber yard, or retailer won't know what your talking about.
02-01-2012, 12:00 AM
I mostly cut 4x8 plywood on my machine and I mad my vac table base 4x8 and have the edge open all the way around. It gives me alot of flexibility for doing bullnose edges and other things. That hang over the edge. Just my two cents (worth about a penny these days).
02-01-2012, 05:11 PM
I used a 4 x8 of 3/4 birch shopgrade plywood and added a 10 inch strip with biscuits up one edge as my bottom layer on a prs 4x 8 because I use threaded inserts as holddowns and wanted a row on each side beyond the 4 foot area then I glued down a 4 x 8 3/4 mdf spoil board. It worked out great. I just had to drill a new holddown hole in the steel bars on the 10 inch side tone sure my holddowns didn't lift the edge on a big carving. I wouldnt hesitate to use the same method on a large piece as long as it's all biscuited or braced underneath. I also moved my steel bars just enough so I could have a 5 5/8 spacing on all of the threaded inserts in every direction. My previous setup was uneven and that really gets agrevating when using templates and small Brady vacs
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