tuck
05-26-2011, 04:03 PM
I brought this subject up in another thread. I don't want to hi-jack that thread, so I'll start a new one. This is a simple trick for hanging interior signs with no visible fasteners using a "hanging bar". In my sketch, I'm calling the sign panel HDU, but it could be of most any material including wood, PVC, aluminum, etc. This method is especially useful for larger and heavier panels.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/Superfan52/hangingsign.jpg
You make the hanging bar by ripping your material of choice in half on a table saw with the blade set at an angle. The angle doesn't have to be all the way to 45 degrees. 15 to 20 degrees will work fine because gravity does the real work. I like to use 1/2" thick PVC for my hanging bars, but you can use anything that can be rip-cut on a table saw and 3" to 5" wide material ripped in half on an angle will give you your hanging bar. You affix half of your ripped piece to the back of the panel as shown (I use Gorilla Glue and no screws, but that's just me), and screw the other half to the wall, counter-sinking the screw heads. Most interior walls are drywall, so you'll need mollies. Use a level and careful measurements. The bottom "spacer bar" is cut out of the same material as the hanging bar and simply serves to keep the panel parallel to the wall once hung. Your panel will stand off of the wall as to whatever thickness your hanging bar and spacer bar is. Also, cut your bars shorter than your panel is wide. You don't want to see the ends of them. If your panel is 48" wide, cut the bars to maybe 45".
This is an old trick that most of the old pro's are familiar with. I thought some of you newbies might benefit from it at some point. If you have a beautiful sign or an elaborately carved 3D art panel to be installed on an interior and you don't want to see fasteners, this works well and looks nice.
Any questions? :)
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/Superfan52/hangingsign.jpg
You make the hanging bar by ripping your material of choice in half on a table saw with the blade set at an angle. The angle doesn't have to be all the way to 45 degrees. 15 to 20 degrees will work fine because gravity does the real work. I like to use 1/2" thick PVC for my hanging bars, but you can use anything that can be rip-cut on a table saw and 3" to 5" wide material ripped in half on an angle will give you your hanging bar. You affix half of your ripped piece to the back of the panel as shown (I use Gorilla Glue and no screws, but that's just me), and screw the other half to the wall, counter-sinking the screw heads. Most interior walls are drywall, so you'll need mollies. Use a level and careful measurements. The bottom "spacer bar" is cut out of the same material as the hanging bar and simply serves to keep the panel parallel to the wall once hung. Your panel will stand off of the wall as to whatever thickness your hanging bar and spacer bar is. Also, cut your bars shorter than your panel is wide. You don't want to see the ends of them. If your panel is 48" wide, cut the bars to maybe 45".
This is an old trick that most of the old pro's are familiar with. I thought some of you newbies might benefit from it at some point. If you have a beautiful sign or an elaborately carved 3D art panel to be installed on an interior and you don't want to see fasteners, this works well and looks nice.
Any questions? :)