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View Full Version : Spray Stencil Ink for Signs.



CNYDWW
07-30-2011, 02:34 AM
I've been looking into the Marsh brand stencil ink that Eric Erickson uses on his cedar signs. He does an outstanding job as we all can tell. I have noticed there are other colors available besides just black. I do a lot more PVC signs then I do wood. Up here in NY heading up into the mountains it just holds up better. A few questions-

1) Can anyone else find a supplier for individual cans besides black and white?

2) Has anyone used the stencil ink on other material such as aluminum, pvc, corian or anything else.

3) The specs on the product say it's waterproof but should it be sealed anyways?

4) If we get a few people together that can test the product on other materials and if there is interest. Would anyone be interested in splitting cases up depending on colors available? (most colors are only available in a case of 12 that i can find)

My standard colors for my signs are blue, black, red, green and brown. Brown isn't an available color that i can see but that's not as popular as black and green here. On my pvc signs i usually use exterior enamel with masking that's milled with the v carvings. It does take at least over night to dry before sanding and that's if it's not too humid. Can't beat the longevity of it that i've found so far. The biggest issue with replacing the exterior enamel is that the pvc i use doesn't need to be sealed. I have signs that have held up to the salt and sand out by the road for three years without signs of wear. Adding an extra step to the process would lead me to raise prices.

Regards
Randy

CNYDWW
07-30-2011, 02:50 AM
Answered 1) for myself - http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v400-1705/sign_making

Greencarvings
07-30-2011, 10:35 PM
http://www.drillspot.com is much cheaper. Free shipping and multiple colors.

dlcw
07-30-2011, 10:45 PM
I found black and white on drillspot. No other colors then that or am I missing something? :confused:

CNYDWW
07-31-2011, 12:35 AM
They have the krylon stencil ink in different colors.

cowboy1296
11-07-2013, 06:43 PM
I now have a can and not sure when i intend on using it. Only question. I understand sanding off the excess but can you wipe off the excess with a solvent. If so what kind?

dlcw
11-07-2013, 08:54 PM
Grainger carries marshes stencil ink. I think in different colors.

dlcw
11-07-2013, 08:58 PM
I now have a can and not sure when i intend on using it. Only question. I understand sanding off the excess but can you wipe off the excess with a solvent. If so what kind?

I let it dry for a couple of hours then sand the areas around where I sprayed. I've used it on hickory, cedar, white oak, alder and red oak with excellent results. I normally seal the wood with a can of spray shellac before applying the marshes. Helps keep bleeding down and the overspray is much easier to remove as it doesn't soak into the grain as bad.

I topcoat outdoor signs with Cabot's Australian Timber Oil and indoor projects with Deft spray lacquer. Since signs and plaques don't get hard use (they just hang on a wall) I don't worry to much about durability of the finish on indoor plaques.

srwtlc
11-07-2013, 08:59 PM
Uline (http://www.uline.com/BL_2660/Spray-Inks?keywords=ink)

Indiana Stamp (http://www.indianastamp.com/ProductDetail.aspx?productid=MARSH%20SPRAY%20STENC IL%20INK)

I've gotten it from both. Indiana Stamp has it in more colors than Uline and has a single can price. Uline is 6, 12, or 24 cans.

I mainly use it on v-carved cherry MDF on top of a seal coat of pre-cat lacquer with a top coat after sanding away the overspray. I needed something that the lacquer didn't eat up/wrinkle/lift and the ink works great. I use mostly black and some red.

WMNH
11-09-2013, 10:07 AM
I've been using the black Marsh stencil ink lately that I got from Zorotools.com. Looks like their price has gone up but looks like only they sell Black, Tan and white in single cans. I actually don't see a difference between the marsh and the 0.99 can of flat black from Lowes. They both gum up my sanding pads quickly. Too get around it I've been using shelf paper and vcarving through it. Remore the shelf paper and a real quick sanding after and I'm done.

kern
11-09-2013, 04:43 PM
Randy, Would Lithochome for monuments [cemetery headstones] work for your application?

kartracer63
11-09-2013, 05:35 PM
You guys know this thread is over 2 years old, right?

cowboy1296
01-10-2014, 09:05 AM
I am going to use the stencil ink for the first time this weekend. I plan to use a thin coat of shellac to prevent bleeding. After sanding off the excess do yall think that there would be enough residual shellac to prevent sikkens from sealing the board?

scottp55
01-10-2014, 09:14 AM
Same question but 50/50 tung/citrus solvent multiple layers?

cowboy1296
01-10-2014, 09:51 AM
I called Sikkens and although the answer was not absolute they indicated that there might be a problem with the Sikkens not soaking into the board. But I am still interested in what yall have to say.

CNYDWW
01-10-2014, 09:54 AM
Just a note. Although i started this thread i've never had the chance to play with it. I get PM's about it once in a while though.

Regards
Randy

cowboy1296
11-13-2014, 09:30 AM
Here in Colorado the elements can be pretty harsh. I have a sign that i will be doing for outside. What are yalls thoughts about how the stencil ink will hold up?

dlcw
11-13-2014, 11:57 AM
Rick,

I live in northeast WA where the conditions go from 100's in the summer and below zero in the winter. Rain, sun beating down, etc.

I have a sign I did 7 years ago and fastened to my west facing shop door. I used Marsh stencil ink and 1 coat of Cabbot Australian Timber Oil (natural). It is just now starting to show that it needs to have a new coat of oil put on it. The stencil ink seems to be fine with little or no fading.

The stuff really holds up in my climate.

cowboy1296
11-13-2014, 12:00 PM
thanks for the feedback, that sounds like what i want to use. It hit a -12 here this morning. That arctic cold front slammed the whole country. Must be the first phase of global warming.

dlcw
11-13-2014, 12:14 PM
Ha Ha. Love the whole global warming drama... :mad:

We were cold but NOT that cold. Our windchill has been around -5, with air temps around 5.

jerry_stanek
11-13-2014, 12:55 PM
Mcmaster Carr has different colors

stump
11-13-2014, 01:30 PM
Amazon has it as well, both as in spray cans and quarts. All colors, most free shipping with Amazon Prime.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_10?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=marsh%20stencil%20ink&sprefix=marsh+sten%2Caps%2C228

dlcw
11-13-2014, 02:24 PM
Tried the quart cans and it did not dry for a looooong time. The spray can stuff dries very fast.

cowboy1296
11-13-2014, 02:30 PM
I did find it a little funny when the scientist who were on their way to the north to prove global warming got stuck in the ice. Then the rescuers who went in using an ice breaker got stuck as well.

Anyhow i do appreciate the comments about the stencil ink and will use it if this sign goes through.

cowboy1296
11-13-2014, 02:35 PM
I did not even know it came in a liquid, spray is what i have on hand.

cowboy1296
03-23-2015, 08:40 AM
Another question. I have to refinish a sign that has already been v-carved. If i seal the entire board i will also be sealing the v-carving, and i might use sikken log and siding. Will the stencil ink adhere to any type of sealer or what would you recommend?

bleeth
03-23-2015, 09:44 AM
Sikkens is best either on raw wood or on top of itself as a refresher coat. Either way, If you are going to paint on top of it give it days to cure before putting the stencil ink on top. I would do a small experimental sample first as I don't know whether the base in the stencil ink will "like" Sikkens or not. Likely no issue though.

cowboy1296
03-23-2015, 10:13 AM
Thanks, so for i like the sikkens and the stencil ink just not sure yet if they like each other.

cowboy1296
06-27-2016, 09:05 AM
chances are i am doing something wrong. I just did a large sign. First i used a sanding sealer on my board, then i cut the sign, then i used some spray shellac on the entire sign, then i used the stencil ink. I let it dry for 24 hours. I then sanded the sign. I had to deal with gunk on my sand paper but managed to get-r-done and it was looking goodhttp://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=28532&stc=1. Then i put sikkens over everything with a brush trying to evenly apply it with the brush. I noticed that the ink was starting to smear even though it had dried. Now what am i doing wrong.

Cosmos275
06-27-2016, 09:31 AM
dumb, new guy question: Why stencil ink over more typical cans of spray paint (acrylic or whatever)? What's the advantage, faster drying? I'm just starting in on a project where I want to mask and use a couple colors. Thanks!

cowboy1296
06-27-2016, 09:51 AM
sealing the letters prevents bleeding, but obviously i am doing something wrong.

srwtlc
06-27-2016, 10:27 AM
Instead of brushing, I would suggest spraying your final coat(s) on. Stencil ink does tend to load sandpaper. You could use a much more aggressive grit to knock down the heaviest of it and then follow with finer grits. I've used fast dry flat spray paints as well, but you'd want to test for compatibility with your finish so that it doesn't wrinkle/lift it. I've also had good luck with a product called Laser Dark. It sands off easily once dry and can be top coated with lacquer without wrinkling/lifting. It's a bit pricey though. I get a break on it due to the fact that I make products for the company that developed it.

http://www.laserdark.com/

I believe JDS carries it also and might have a better price.

http://php.jdsindustries.com/JDS_SITE/site1.php?D3ID=786&D2ID=2&D1ID=1&D3DESC=Laser%20Darkening%20Spray&D2DESC=Engraving%20Supplies&D1DESC=Engraving%20Materials%20&%20Supplies&SITE=SITE3

cowboy1296
06-27-2016, 10:35 AM
Thank Scott. Spray guns and i had a parting of the ways sometime back. I am terrible with them. Is laser dark compatible with the elements. We get a lot of uvs in Colorado.

srwtlc
06-27-2016, 11:03 AM
That I don't know. There's nothing stated on the can pertaining to that. My usage is only for interior or protected exterior areas. Yeah, had to brush apply some Watco Danish Oil on some walnut with stencil inked lettering and had to be careful to not over work it to limit bleeding/smearing of it. I topcoat it with spray lacquer just fine though.

cowboy1296
06-27-2016, 11:13 AM
is there such a thing of sikkens in a rattle can?

Cosmos275
06-29-2016, 09:39 AM
I found this which highlights some advantages over spray paint: http://msscllc.com/download/spray-stencil-inks/

I believe it is dye based and not pigment based like paint, so I assume it will build up less.

cowboy1296
06-29-2016, 10:10 AM
thanks. I was told yesterday that sikkens is solvent based which explains the smearing.

Cosmos275
06-29-2016, 11:50 AM
better link:

http://www.bonnechereindustrial.com/uploads/Tech-Data-Sheet-Spray-Inks-HiRes.pdf

cowboy1296
10-22-2016, 09:27 AM
I already have to repair the sign i posted above. The sikkens is holding up great but the ink is flaking off in the graphics big time. The elements here are hard but the sign does not face the south and has not been up that long. My thoughts are to brush the graphics with a wire brush peeling off any loose ink, then redo the ink. But this time seal the ink with an exterior poly and sand again and add another coat of sikkens. Anyhow your thoughts?

Cosmos275
10-22-2016, 11:34 AM
I got some stencil ink from McMaster. It did not go well. I couldn't get it to spray on with any consistency, so I gave up. Maybe I didn't get the right brand.

dmidkiff
10-23-2016, 07:36 AM
Cowboy, I used some exterior poly (don't remember the brand) on a very simple yard sign around 2001. Purchased from a local lumber yard. It lasted less than 6 months. It was exposed to the Wyoming sun and wind during the spring and summer months. Best clear that I ever used for outdoors was permalac sold by Sculptneuvu. It lasted over a year in the Southeast TX sun and rain. Never tried the sikkens but know that Joe Crumley speaks well of it as do a few others on here. Just beware of the exterior polys.

cowboy1296
10-23-2016, 10:53 AM
Well i certainly dont want to do any more repair on the sign. I spent some time yesterday with steel wool and rubbed some of the ink off but some would not remove so easily. Before i make the same mistake twice, is there a paint that will work or just try the ink again.

dmidkiff
10-24-2016, 08:18 AM
I did a yard sign several years ago and painted the lettering with spray paint from big box store. Rustoleum or Krylon not sure which. The permalac is completely gone but can see that the paint is mostly still there. I warned the customer of the finish failure and he had no problem. Now it looks just like weathered wood with some paint in the letters.