cabinet makers advice needed

[myxpykalix]

A neighbor wants me to make them a cabinet like i have drawn up. (I need the work right about now!) On the bottom there will be a pull out drawer where a catbox will be and to the right you will see where the cat enters that chamber via the cat door. The height will be approx 24" from the bottom shelf to the next shelf.

On the right there will be a 2" wide "chamber" where a adjustable aluminum duct will be placed with a fan in it to suck the stink out and pipe it to the outside via a dryer vent duct.

Some of these questions i think i know the answer to but i want to confirm them before i cut. It has been 4-5 years since i built a cabinet (pre shopbot) and i tend to forget some details

using 3/4 plywood what is the average depth of dadoes for the shelves?
(3/8th's?)

In order to get a inside deminsion of 20" the shelf needs to be 20 3/4" wide?
The sides need to be 20 3/4" (if i do it with a pocket screwed face frame)
Should i do it with faceframe construction or another sheet of plywood?

should i incorporate a toe kick?
What height should 1st shelf be off the ground? 2"?
how is best way to construct the sliding drawer? I have some nice heavy video equipment rack slides for the drawer.

I don't have the shopbot link or a fancy cabinet program so any advice would be appreciated.:D

Still can't seem to upload pics. The window opens but just sits there and grinds!

[myxpykalix]

trying to add pic. I just had one of those autmatic windows update for windows 7 and i think some type of permissions setting or firewall setting is not letting me upload pictures because the upload window just sits and spins and other places where i want to download pictures does the same.

Does anyone know what/where i can check to try to figure this out?
I use McAffee and have checked all their settings and i don't see anything relevent to popups, downloads, ect?
Same thing with Internet Explorer/Tools/Internet Options/Security tab
Using ver. 8.0.7601.17514

I have also rebooted IE
Rebooted computer
rebooted router

[jimmya]

Are you talking about something like this? See Picture.

14008

[CNYDWW]

I usually use pocket hole screws so my depths are much shallower then 3/8. I usually cut them at 1/8" which is more then enough depth to hold with a 1" pocket screw. You may need to play with whatever pocket hole jig you have to make sure the screws wont protrude. A little trick to make it easier with ply that's not actually 3/4" thick. Zero to your spoil board with your bit. Jog it up 3/4 inches and reset the zero. This way you know the corresponding parts you'll have to add exactly 3/8 per dado or rabbit if that's the depth you cut. If they want a face frame, give it to them. You can do euro style cabinets but that usually takes extra filling or edge banding depending on the project. It's faster for me to build a face frame. I always use a toe kick specially if there are upper doors on the cabinet. Toe kick height i use a standard of 3.5" off the floor and 2 1/2 depth. Bottom panel height is 5" off the floor with a 1 1/2" face frame. I'll throw up a screen shot or pic later. i have to run for now
Regards
Randy

[myxpykalix]

I have the mini kreg jig. I have several of those european style door hinges I salvaged from some old cabinets that were being junked.

I would think that i want a door that lay flat on the face and not inside the cutout (sorry i forget the correct term).
i will probably make the doors with pocket screws with a floating raised panel. Maybe even the drop down door will be made like that.

Any and all construction techniques and tips wil be appreciated.

Thanks for posting that Jimmy, it looks EXACTLY like what i drew up! You must be a mindreader! lol

[CNYDWW]

I've got a Kreg Pro jig and an electric foreman. I've found that leaving 5/8" of material and using the pocket screws with glue is pretty much overkill. I do more cabinet kits then anything as far as cabinets. Usually just plywood case with or without face frames for the DIY'ers that don't have the tools or patience for a full on cabinet construction. Because plywood isn't a full thickness such as 19mm and not 3/4 and that varies itself from piece to piece. I do the technique i mentioned of zeroing first to the spoilboard. I then mill the dadoes and rabbits to leave 5/8" material. That means if it's a 24" wide cabinet, upper cleats and bottom panel are 22 3/4". Simpler math and your kreg jig can be set up to use 1" screws and material thickness of 5/8 however i would test this on some scrap. i keep my bit back just a bit more then the jig stop says as well.

Regards
Randy

[CNYDWW]

What i've come up with so far based on how i would build it myself.

[myxpykalix]

Randy,
it looks simple when you do it! That looks great (except) I have to have a 2.5" "false wall" on the left side to encase the adjustable aluminum duct from the rest of the compartment.

I want to install a fan to carry the catbox odor out without allowing the stink to rise thru just a notched hole in the shelves. I intend to coat the inside walls with something to prevent seepage and probably will caulk the underside of the shelf above to keep the stink out.

How would the best way be to insert that false wall? Thanks for your help so far...:D

[CNYDWW]

Is the left side of the cabinet going to be exposed? Or do you want a small knee wall and make the cabinet look equal on both sides? Check your pm's best to give me a call instead of going back and fourth like this.

[CNYDWW]

Bump: Bumped this back up, Check your e'mail, Jack. If there's anything else you need help with including sketchup. Let me know.

Regards
Randy

[myxpykalix]

I emailed you just a bit ago. Thanks again for all your help. Much appreciated.