Taking the Desktop plunge...

[GDGeorge]

Hi Shopbotters!

It looks like in a week or two I'll have a SB Desktop set up and cutting in the garage. I wish I had space for a Buddy, but it's just not going to happen... Most of the things I envision cutting are smallish plaques and such so it will be fine.

I'm also getting the indexer, I think. What I'd like to do is use it to engrave pens that I've turned on my lathe. I think the process would involve turning the blanks and then transferring them, mandrel and all, to the 'Bot. Of course it looks like I could simply turn the whole thing on the indexer and simply switch bits to do the engraving. I do like my lathe though. Has anyone any experience with this sort of thing?

In any case, I've been reading the forum for a bit now, and have experience with an eBay homebrew machine. What should I watch out for when I set this bad boy up? Any tricks that I need to know? I've been playing with the control software and it seems a lot easier to use than Mach2. I've been playing with VCarve Pro and that definitely has a few more bells and whistles than CAMBAM.

By the way, while I'm thinking of it: how compatible is the 'bot with the G-Code generated by CAMBAM? I loaded up a file and saw a couple of errors, but they looked simple to resolve. It was a small file, though, and I wonder if it might be more challenging with a more complex one.

Thanks for any tips.
Jerry George

[Brady Watson]

Congratulations. You are going to love it!

I wouldn't waste another moment messing with CAMBAM. Learn & use the Vectric software. It offers professional results in an easy to learn interface. Go through the help file - it is very good.

-B

[GDGeorge]

Hi Brady,

Thanks for your reply. I own PhotoVCarve and have been looking at VCarvePro for some time now. I'm looking forward to having the full version to work with. I'm very excited about the whole thing. This weekend I've got to un-bury the garage so that I can get to things again. I need to move the old CNC Router and build a slightly larger benchtop for the 'Bot. I'm planning to use a couple of pieces of MDF sitting on top of the existing space. I've also got to move the computer back out there at some point, and find the Kerosun heater... Wish I had more space, but this will do.

Cheers,
Jerry

[GDGeorge]

Ordered the machine yesterday. Took two separate payments over two day days for the check card to work but there it is.

(Thanks Bank of America. For nothing. "Is there anything else we can help you with today?" "You haven't helped me at all but thanks for your time...")

The unit should ship early next week. Tomorrow's project is to finish un-burying the garage and to clear the old machine out of the way. I've also got to break down the old shelf that I had my computer on and move the computer back out to the garage.

Wheeeee!

[myxpykalix]

I'm not sure but i think you get partworks with the purchase of the machine(?) Although your machine is smaller there are things you can do to overcome those limitations if you want to make something on the indexer longer then your bed.

If you are making something like, say a lamp, then if you design it to make it in sections and then you can dowel it together. If you need any help with the indexer send me an email, address in profile. good luck:D

[michael_schwartz]

When you get your machine make something simple for yourself. Don't be afraid to jump right in and cut real material. When you run into problems the first question to ask yourself is what was the machine programmed to do. That will lead you to an answer 90% of the time.

The best way to learn Partworks or Aspire is to start drawing.

As far as accessories you will need a pair of digital calipers, and laminate trimmer, such as a Bosch colt with a flush trim bit to trim away tabs.

If you have the PC router a set of aftermarket precision collets from http://www.precisebits.com/ are really nice. I found that the stock PC collets were easy over tighten.

For basic hold down kreg coarse thread pocket screws work well, and its much harder to break the heads off. I stopped using drywall screws for this reason.

I have been buying most of my bits from http://www.centuriontools.com/

[Towersonline]

Jerry, Welcome to the forum!

I too have a DeskTop. Only have had it for about 6 weeks now. I'm really impressed the machine. I find it extremely accurate and quiet compared to my PRS and PRT's that I have owned. I have cut some rather thick material with it and it never skipped a beat. I'm still coming up with ideas re spoil board and work piece hold down. Right now I'm using a piece of MDO. I have used MDF on my other machines, I don't like the fine dust it puts up. I do not cut MDF anymore.

Setup was a breeze. Take it out of the crate, set it on the bench and go! If you look on the ShopBot web site under documents you will find a detailed setup document.

To answer your question re Part Works. Yes, it is part of the package along with a thumb drive that contains the control software and Part Works.

[WoodMarvels.com]

Welcome aboard! I've thoroughly enjoyed (and continue to do so) the ShopBot Desktop - wonderful machine... I had it cut straight for 7 hours cutting various designs and had no issue other than a dull bit! I was green to the CNC world so even somebody who knew nothing knew more than me as I was use to lasers cutters.

Other than putting a billion screws (I'm now up to 10 on a 400x500mm sheet) to hold things down, the best invention Bill and Angus added to my machine was a square at the bottom and two support sticks on opposing edges. You can see them in the video found here (scroll down).

http://www.woodmarvels.com/attack-helicopter-cnc.html (cutting is shown at 8x normal speed by the way)

I went through three 1/8 standard double flute bits in about 3 days... so stock-up on those for sure! I found a "spare" until I was able to buy a bunch more from Amazon.

One other thing to watch for is making sure the vacuum doesn't get clogged-up, the machine is loud and you won't hear it change but you will notice it doesn't suck as much... oh yeah, watch the computer, I clogged-up my laptop after a week of cutting but it crashed only a month later. Don't count on the vacuum sucking everything out of the air and cutting surface.

Have fun!

Jon
ps: I use PartWorks for the cutting paths, Adobe Illustrator for line generation and 3DS Max for the model creation process.

[GDGeorge]

Thanks for the tips gents! I just got a note saying the the machine has shipped! Have to check the tracking number later and see if there's an expected delivery date.

I installed the software and spent a good bit of time messing around with it this weekend. I also got the garage most of the way cleared out. I've got to finish it up tonight or tomorrow.

I guess the biggest question that I have at this point is about the spoilboard and how to attach it. I'm think of using MDF, but would certainly be open to other ideas.

The other question has to do with hold downs. What are folks using?

Thanks,
Jerry

[myxpykalix]

Jon,
I liked the "funky" music on your video. the shopbot looked like it was dancing in synch to the music in parts!:eek:
Also check out centuriontools.com for your 1/8th bits. They are very sharp and stay sharp for a long time, i think you will be pleased with them.

[chiloquinruss]

Jon what is the material? The reason you might be going through those bits so fast might be the speed at which you were cutting. When you get through cutting, turn the spindle off and check the temperature of the bit. If believe if it is hot you are either running the feed to high or the speed is to high. The bit should be cool to the touch. I can cut many full sheets of ply and not loose a bit. Most of the bit issues I have is directly based on 'cockpit' error! :) BTW - I really like your site and wares. Russ

[Bob Eustace]

Hi Jon - love your site and what you do. Your comment on listening for the vacuum to fill up. We use a Dust Deputy on the Festool and you just dont get this problem as the cyclone gets 99% of the chips/dust. I reckon MDF dust is pretty nasty stuff so the less you breathe the better!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6SheO6zwBI&feature=youtube_gdata_player

You can even get a big flashing light to tell you when the drum is full. Does the Desktop spindle get hot being enclosed the way it is? Are tool changes easy?

Bob

[GDGeorge]

Well, I went over to the freight terminal and picked up the crate this morning. It was quite impressive to watch the forklift operator put the crate in my truck as there was less than an inch of clearance on either side!

I got the thing home and started to uncrate it. It was too heavy to lift off the truck so I loosened the clips at the bottom and removed the whole top and sides at the same time. I then cleared the old machine out of way and moved the new one in. (By myself... Ouch.) I had previewed the setup information so it took less than an hour before I had to wonder in and grab the laptop. Everything worked out of the box and by 2:00 I was cutting a lithophane into a 5x7 piece of Corian.

At that point, ever willing to turn a good situation sour, or a bad situation worse, I decided that I should go ahead and hook up the dust collector. And promptly hit the power switch I reached around it...

Everything was working well up to that point though. And the dust collector is hooked up now too.

So, next on the list: I need to pick up some bits. I got the "starter set" from Shopbot and I've got a good number of 1/8" v-bits and such. I think a visit to MLCS and / or Centurion is in order. The question is, what should I get? I'm going to be making lithophanes, small signage, and such. What do you guys and gals keep in stock?

What do you use to carve in blue foam? I've routed sheets of bricks for stage sets before and seem to recall that I just used a standard bit. It's been awhile though.

OK, off to prep for a Marine Corps League meeting and grab a bite.

Cheers!

[myxpykalix]

I think centurion has a "starter kit" themselves. I would get a .25 endmill,
.25 ballnose, .125 ballnose a 60,90,120 degree vbits. Those are the bits i use the most i think.