X, Y, Z, B zero locations w/ Indexer?

[gwerner]

I mounted an indexer on our BT48, on the X-axis.

I added the alum plate to the top of the tail stock with the sticky tape, as has been suggested. Inserted the dead center point with the flat section in the tail stock. Zeroed to the top of the tail stock aluminum with a z-zero plate, then measured the difference to the flat section with the bot manually. Took out the dead center and then measured the difference between the flat section of the dead center and its point with the micrometer. Geez, I have a headache. There must be an easier way. I measure 125mm from floor of bed to dead center, wont that suffice somehow?

Now that I have all these measurements, please remind me how to modify the C2 command, so I can save a new file that will give me the maximum clearance below the bit before homing.

Oh yeah, before I forget, how far from the ends of the workpiece is rule of thumb to zero?

How do you find Y zero accurately?

Is there a reason to B zero?

Does it matter where you start a file?

Thanks for your help guys.


3018

[dana_swift]

I mounted an indexer on my BT32 using a powerstick the same way you did. I just use my regular table zero routine with an offset to the XY point for the center of the drive end.

I like the dust collection hood. Can you tell more about it? Photos?

D

[gwerner]

Thanks Dana.

I made a template from plywood and inserted the PVC fittings on either side of the spindle. Then I wrapped the whole thing with duct tape, and celophane, to make up the shape of the hood. I wrapped it in fiberglass so it is lightweight. It is about 3/16" thick.
After it dried, I separated the glass from the "mold" and cut out the openings for the pvc pipe. The pipe fittings accept 4" dust hose. The skirt is a conveyor sweep from mcmaster, that is bolted to the mold. I use a rubber pipe fitting with a hose clamp to keep it up on the round part of the spindle. Its big enough to get wrenches in underneath, and due to the fact there are two hoses, it doesn't miss much on the table.


3019

[gwerner]

The black part above is a 6" sewer drain from THD and the pvc 90 fit right inside. It is bolted to a board with two shelf brackets and rides the Z up and down, just above the spindle mount. The 90 pvcs are held in place with screws and duct taped, not elegant, but effective. I put a fitting on the underside on each side of the hood for the 3 to 4 inch pvc reducers. There is a 3 inch union, that I cut flush on the underside of the hood to attach the dust hoses, they "pinch the hood". The 6" mainline is attached to a drop from my Oneida 2-1/2 HP DC. I don't have a dust problem or much of a mess to clean up. I have the template to share if you like, but I admit, I had a friends help glassing it up. Sorta a one-off, but I'm willing to share if you want to have a go for yourself.

[dana_swift]

Greg, I was wondering where the hood "yellow part" came from, or how you made it. That seems to be the bit that makes it all work.

I have Gary Campbell's excellent dust foot for regular cutting, but with the indexer all bets are off. Thats why I was impressed with your DC hood, as it looks indexer friendly.

Thank you for the info!

D

[gwerner]

The yellow hood part I painted. They are PVC parts from THD and the oblong hood part is the fiberglass I mentioned previously.