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View Full Version : New Sjobergs Elite :o



khaos
02-04-2012, 02:17 PM
I am building a workbench now modeled after the Sjobergs Elite 2500 (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005399/15520/Sjobergs-Elite-2500-Workbench-plus-Cabinet-Combo.aspx) guess who AINT payin $2500 USD for one either.

I have half of the tabletop laid up. Pine 2x4s and titebond III. I have purchased 1 large front vise (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004875/7534/WoodRiver-Large-Front-Vise.aspx) with the expectation of getting one or two more. I don't think I will get a true tail vise and will instead put a front vise on the end and one or two on the front.

Dimensions:
<LI style="MARGIN-LEFT: 20px">Table surface is 35-1/2" off the floor.<LI style="MARGIN-LEFT: 20px">Top is 96" long and 24" wide.<LI style="MARGIN-LEFT: 20px">Top is 3.25 thick with 4" skirts
Cabinet below will be designed after I decide what tools I want to store in the bench.

khaos
02-04-2012, 03:07 PM
16 2bys laid up. Thats a lotta glue btw.

Money so far:
16 x 3.14 = $50.24 USD
$78 for the front clamp
$26 for glue. used maybe 1/4

bruce_taylor
02-04-2012, 06:14 PM
If I was building this I would be thinking hardwood maybe maple for the top, pine is very soft for a workbench top. I would never pay that kind of money for a work bench either can't wait to see the pictures as you pave the way! Good Luck!

khaos
02-04-2012, 07:24 PM
If I was building this I would be thinking hardwood maybe maple for the top, pine is very soft for a workbench top. I would never pay that kind of money for a work bench either can't wait to see the pictures as you pave the way! Good Luck!

I agree but pine is way cheaper. I spent most of my walking around money on a new bandsaw and a new planer.

I figured I could replace the top later when the money grows back. LOL

gc3
02-04-2012, 07:48 PM
you may run into glue creep and raised joints with tb3 as it is more rigid than tb2 which can lead to joint failure

woodweb has some good info on this

bruce_taylor
02-04-2012, 11:24 PM
You might consider plywood as a top of you can't make it out of hardwood.
The plywood would make it much easier, you could double thickness and frame around the edges with solid lumber. When your budget allows you could replace it however you would like.

michael_schwartz
02-05-2012, 07:23 AM
I laminated my top from 8/4" ash. The top is 3+" thick, and 9' long. I built the stand from pine.

The beds on your jointer will need to be setup perfectly.

Sadly my preferred work surface is a pair of saw horses with either a door, or a flat torsion box top I built from particle board, and formica. I can move it out of the way to get floor space, and or size the top for whatever I am working on.

My Rubo style bench is more often than not used as tool storage.

khaos
02-05-2012, 02:52 PM
here are some in progress pics. Surfacing and end trim. And people ask why would you get a 4" cutter. Heres why

kevin
02-05-2012, 04:52 PM
Joe use the wood for legs thats what will give you real strenght .From the ground up

I used 2 sheets of plywood sanwiched with a dry wall sheet .Can really take a blow used oak for edging

$200 in material would love maple next shop

khaos
02-05-2012, 05:20 PM
Joe use the wood for legs thats what will give you real strenght .From the ground up

I used 2 sheets of plywood sanwiched with a dry wall sheet .Can really take a blow used oak for edging

$200 in material would love maple next shop

Nice big tables!! Great for assembly I bet.

kevin
02-05-2012, 05:24 PM
if you have the space go large you can also put six wheel under

khaos
02-05-2012, 05:25 PM
Considering hardwood plywood for the top/skirts now... Wonering about the added value of it given the 3.5" thick pine already there.

khaos
02-05-2012, 05:26 PM
you may run into glue creep and raised joints with tb3 as it is more rigid than tb2 which can lead to joint failure

woodweb has some good info on this

Since I resurfaced the top after glue cure would this still be an issue?

kevin
02-05-2012, 05:27 PM
you would get more bang using the pine for legs the dry wall in the middle can absorb more of a blow then the pine

khaos
02-05-2012, 11:09 PM
you would get more bang using the pine for legs the dry wall in the middle can absorb more of a blow then the pine

Are you creating a compression box with the drywall?

michael_schwartz
02-05-2012, 11:40 PM
Since I resurfaced the top after glue cure would this still be an issue?

I wouldn't be too concerned. At the end of the day its a work bench. You could wait a couple of days before you sand if you really wanted to.

Tightbond 3 is more prone to raised glue lines, but it can happen with any adhesive. The main cause is from excess moisture introduced into the panel. The longer you can let something sit before you do any final sanding the better. Sometimes you have to work with stuff right away. In this case your dealing with a work bench so I wouldn't worry about it.

You have enough glue area there that that top will not come apart for a long time.

kevin
02-06-2012, 06:36 AM
The drywall is a poor man solution for not using hardwood for the top . It works well good luck

michael_schwartz
02-06-2012, 04:29 PM
The drywall is a poor man solution for not using hardwood for the top . It works well good luck

I wonder if they drywall has a similar affect to a dead blow mallet?

For smaller assembly surfaces I like to make torsion boxes out of 3/4" particle board skins, glued and screwed to a 3/4" particle board core. I then laminate the top with formica. This makes nice flat, and stable reference surface that can also be used as a caul for gluing.

khaos
02-06-2012, 05:10 PM
I wonder if they drywall has a similar affect to a dead blow mallet?

For smaller assembly surfaces I like to make torsion boxes out of 3/4" particle board skins, glued and screwed to a 3/4" particle board core. I then laminate the top with formica. This makes nice flat, and stable reference surface that can also be used as a caul for gluing.

This is what I was wondering about the compression/torsion boxes, using gypsum, foam, or standing cardboard. It would operate like a dead blow.

khaos
02-16-2012, 11:22 PM
:D So I am going to make square dogs. I know its a bench but i want it to be good looking anyway. I am using purple heart for the dog tops. The layout is as shown. Only question is should I leave it alone or ad some additional purple heart inlays around the edge or something? I am getting that enough is enough feeling but I don't want to do the top twice. :confused: thoughts or ideas?