plans for my buddy table

[Ajcoholic]

My buddy will be here next week. I am planning to keep things simple at at first (might go vacuum later on) so I am making my working table from 1" MDF, into which I am going to set in aluminum extruded T channel ever 6 or 8 inches.

The channel is this style: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=52400&cat=1,43455,61994&ap=1

The "double T" track. I am going to dado 1/2" deep grooves, and then router the slot for the wings. Slide in the aluminum channel, and that will leave me 1/8" of MDF above the tracks so I can cut into the table to clean through material and not hit the tracks.

Using Inca aluminum clamps to hold down pieces - the clamps can go anywhere in the tracks.

AJC

[GlenP]

Should make for a nice table Andrew. You must be going nuts this weekend waiting. I remember waiting for mine. Here is a link to some cam clamps that should work in your t-tracks as well. These are nice as they don't become a issue for the router as far as safe z height. I didn't but t-tracks in mine when I put it together and regret it. Now it is hard to take time to redo table or add them in....should though. Post pics of your progress.
http://welcometothesandbox.com/
David Buchsbaum is also a great guy and very talented cabinet maker.
Have a great family day.:)

[Ajcoholic]

Should make for a nice table Andrew. You must be going nuts this weekend waiting. I remember waiting for mine. Here is a link to some cam clamps that should work in your t-tracks as well. These are nice as they don't become a issue for the router as far as safe z height. I didn't but t-tracks in mine when I put it together and regret it. Now it is hard to take time to redo table or add them in....should though. Post pics of your progress.
http://welcometothesandbox.com/
David Buchsbaum is also a great guy and very talented cabinet maker.
Have a great family day.:)

This weekend went by quickly, I was actually out of town visiting my parents with my son (10 1/2 months old) who happens to be sick with a cold. He's been keeping me pretty busy as my wife had to work night shifts this weekend.

I think the machine is in Canada, as the firm who brokered it through Customs sent me the bill today. It is due to arrive Thursday...

I am so swamped at work, it is silly. I own and operate a custom furniture business - and currently I think I am about 4 to 6 months behind. Work keeps me on my toes! I am also trying to get ready for a home and trade show at the end of April. I am hoping to have some things off the Buddy to show off at the show :)

WHere in Ontario are you? I am in Timmins, a town of about 45,000 just about 3 1/2 hours drive North of North Bay, or 7 or so driving North of Toronto.

I think this week will be interesting.. I am trying to finish one job tomorrow, start another large book case/built-ins job, finish up a kitchen and do some trim for another built-in job I installed last week. Oh yeah, I am going to have to make time to get my Buddy un crated and set in place.

AJC

[GlenP]

Hi Andrew. Did ya get the buddy yet? I am located in a small town called Campbellford which is around 2 hours east of Toronto. You are probably around 9 hours from me as I would drive off the main highways till I got to Orillia area then go on 400. I think that is right...been long time since been too far north. I would love to see northern ontario and my wife and I are thinking about spending some summer holidays travelling up there with our camper. Wont be till kids are out of college as I have two going next year:eek:
You can pm or email me to chat off the forum if you wish. Sound like you got quite a good business going up there. Have fun with your new buddy..:):)

[Ajcoholic]

Hi Andrew. Did ya get the buddy yet? I am located in a small town called Campbellford which is around 2 hours east of Toronto. You are probably around 9 hours from me as I would drive off the main highways till I got to Orillia area then go on 400. I think that is right...been long time since been too far north. I would love to see northern ontario and my wife and I are thinking about spending some summer holidays travelling up there with our camper. Wont be till kids are out of college as I have two going next year:eek:
You can pm or email me to chat off the forum if you wish. Sound like you got quite a good business going up there. Have fun with your new buddy..:):)

Just got it today! I just might be your way sometime in the future... a good friend of mine moved recently from Toronto to somewhere just off the 401, about 1 1/2 hours east of Toronto. Will try and visit him this summer. If I get there will look you up!

AJC

[GlenP]

Make sure you post some pics of your setup with the buddy. Look me up for sure when down this way. Sounds like you friend is really close to me. I am just 20 minutes north of 401 when you exit at Brighton. :)

[chiloquinruss]

I use the track on my 48x96 but the process is the same. I have a base board with the track mounted to the base board then seperate pieces glued to the base board in between the tracks. Fianlly another layer of seperate pieces that become my spoilboard. After many surfacings I just replace the final layer and get a 'new' spoilboard. Russ

http://hobby-tronics.lenzus.com/content/21775739/r/s_84086157.jpg

http://hobby-tronics.lenzus.com/content/21775739/r/s_84096157.jpg

And down the side I have an extra set of tracks to hold full sheets.

http://hobby-tronics.lenzus.com/content/21775739/r/s_22486157.jpg

[Ajcoholic]

Make sure you post some pics of your setup with the buddy. Look me up for sure when down this way. Sounds like you friend is really close to me. I am just 20 minutes north of 401 when you exit at Brighton. :)

Well, he is in Brighton, so that is close! I may be doing an entertainment unit for his new home, and bringing it down. Otherwise will try for a visit anyhow.

Russ your table looks very versatile... nice!

AJC

[Ajcoholic]

Here is my table, got it made up today. I used a 48" by 72" piece of 1" thick MDF. Grooved it to accept the channels and attached to the powerstick...

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j307/ajcoholic/IMG_0827.jpg

The Incra clamps work well, lots of pressure.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j307/ajcoholic/IMG_0818.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j307/ajcoholic/IMG_0813.jpg

[GlenP]

Looks good Andrew. I see you have dug right in to cutting parts. Good stuff. Hope to met you someday. Would love to get up your way someday.

[Ajcoholic]

Well, I am never happy with anything first off...

My 4 by 6 foot 1" thick MDF top has developed a small, but annoying curl upwards (about 1/16" off the rollers).

I have another plan... I will get a sheet of 10' long by 5' wide MDF by 3/4" thick. I will cut it in half and glue it up in thickness.

I am going to rig up some sort of ball bearing roller, that will be fastened to the inside of the Buddy aluminum channels, and push down on the top so the top is basically captured beyween the bed rollers, and the rollers I will install. I think a piece of milled steel angle along the edge will be better than running right on the MDF.

Then, after leveling off the top surface it should stay very flat.

Once my Buddy is in its permanent location (within a few weeks, I am getting some renovations to my shop to add another 185 sq feet just for it) I will get to work on the new table. For now and for what I am working on the existing table is OK.

More later when I get going on it...

AJC

[Rick W]

Andrew,

I don't have my 4' x 6' table on yet, but this seems to work for my 4'x4' table.

4' x 1.5" square aluminum on either side.

Rik

[Ajcoholic]

Well, after some thinking (while I was working on some cabinet work this past week) I think I have a good idea.

I have some heavy duty aluminum track - I cut 4 pieces and bolted it to the inner sides of the Buddy's body. With the track running up and down.

Next, I am going to make a piece of material (thinking aluminum or steel but a good hardwood will be adequate) that will bolt with T bolts to these tracks, and this will allow an up and down adjustment, as well as getting it perfectly level to the power stick.

On the underside of this beam, I am using 3 fixed base casters to press down on the table, to hold it tight to the main rollers.

I will redo my aux table, instead of using a single piece of 1" mdf 4' by 6', I bought a 5' by 10' sheet of 3/4", and will cut it into half. The one 5' by 5' will get bolted to the power stick. The rest of the sheet I will cut into strips and fasten them to the 5' by 5' as well they will hold my aluminum T track.

I also have some 1/8" thick 1 1/2" by 1 1/2" angle that I will bolt onto the edges, and probably have the casters ride on the aluminum.

Once the rollers are perfectly leveled in respect to the power stick, the new mdf table bolted on, and then the upper rollers installed to keep the mdf tight to the main rollers - I can surface the top and the mdf should stay very flat. My current table started to slightly curl upwards (not much, maybe 1/16") but there is no way to bend it back down and keep it in place.

I am hoping to have this done next week. I had a new room built in my woodworking shop to house the Buddy. Just got it plastered today, I need to throw a coat of white paint on the walls and ceiling this weekend and get the electrician in on Monday to install the lighting and outlets, and I will be good to go.

Will take some pics when its done...

AJC

[Ajcoholic]

Here is my new table.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j307/ajcoholic/IMG_0848.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j307/ajcoholic/IMG_0847.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j307/ajcoholic/IMG_0846.jpg

AJC

[Brady Watson]

Nice job ~ Looks 1st class!

But...don't plan on keeping that configuration forever. I think you may find T-slots more of a pain to deal with than you 1st anticipated. Of course, there is no such thing as a 'wrong' hold down solution, so I don't want to come from that perspective. If I could encourage you - think in terms of versatility & being able to swap out different hold down methods to suit your needs as they change. One day, t-track and cam clamps may not do it...You may need to go to carpet tape...or vacuum...or screw/attach from underneath. Just keep that in mind as you begin to cut various things. I've found that 99% of the work on a CNC is figuring out how to hold stuff down. Everything else is pretty easy.

Looks like you're off to a great start already!

-B

[cowboy1296]

I put off getting a dust collection system, which meant i had a mess to clean up after each project. No telling how many board feet of dust I inhaled. Anyhow when the daily headaches began I did a little research and realized what i was doing to myself. my dust collector has been a God send. The headaches are gone and the shop area is so much cleaner.

[Ajcoholic]

I put off getting a dust collection system, which meant i had a mess to clean up after each project. No telling how many board feet of dust I inhaled. Anyhow when the daily headaches began I did a little research and realized what i was doing to myself. my dust collector has been a God send. The headaches are gone and the shop area is so much cleaner.

I have a very nice centrally located dust collector - I couldnt live without a near spotlessly clean work environment. :)

[Ajcoholic]

Nice job ~ Looks 1st class!

But...don't plan on keeping that configuration forever. I think you may find T-slots more of a pain to deal with than you 1st anticipated. Of course, there is no such thing as a 'wrong' hold down solution, so I don't want to come from that perspective. If I could encourage you - think in terms of versatility & being able to swap out different hold down methods to suit your needs as they change. One day, t-track and cam clamps may not do it...You may need to go to carpet tape...or vacuum...or screw/attach from underneath. Just keep that in mind as you begin to cut various things. I've found that 99% of the work on a CNC is figuring out how to hold stuff down. Everything else is pretty easy.

Looks like you're off to a great start already!

-B

Brady,
I understand there is no "one" correct way. This is a start - just to get machining. Ideally, I will more than likely invest at a later date in a decent vacuum system, and try that.

When I did cnc machining back in college, in the early 1990's, we used vacuum, clamps, tape, etc to do various work. Most of what I want to do right now, I think the clamps or screwing to the board will do fine. But, after I get a little $$ back into the bank I'd like to investigate a good quality vacuum system.

I read pretty much everything you guys write - so trust me I am learning a lot!

AJC

[Mike Kelly]

I'm about 2 weeks away from receiving my Buddy and have been following the forum daily.
I'm working on my table top and really like Russ and Andrew's setup.
I was thinking of using these clamps from amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00012XE0A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
and was wondering if anyone has used these and if they are any good.
My thinking is they may work well with hold down clamps, especially on larger pieces.

Mike Kelly
Moose Jaw, Sask

[Ajcoholic]

I'm about 2 weeks away from receiving my Buddy and have been following the forum daily.
I'm working on my table top and really like Russ and Andrew's setup.
I was thinking of using these clamps from amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00012XE0A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
and was wondering if anyone has used these and if they are any good.
My thinking is they may work well with hold down clamps, especially on larger pieces.

Mike Kelly
Moose Jaw, Sask

Mike,
I was looking at something similar - but those clamps are made for fitting into tracks much larger than what I am using (like the track in a table saw)

I am planning to make some similar functioning clamps to fit my aluminum T tracks - when I get a chance.

As for the new table, it seems to be working really well. Staying flat and the casters I added hold the top tight to the rollers on the Buddy table.

You are going to love your machine... I am having a blast thinking of things to make, and ways to improve what I already do make.

AJC

[Ajcoholic]

Well the new table is staying flat, and true across the whole top.

The rollers work well!

[Ajcoholic]

Well, it has been nearly 9 months (if I can add) since I have had the 2X3/4"MDF table on my buddy.

I plan to make a new one tomorrow... as this one has been used so much (and resurfaced down as much as I can go without cutting into the screws) it is full of screw holes from holding down plywood.

On the new table I plan to put in another 4 lengths of the aluminum track so they are closer together.

For what one sheet of 5' by 10' 3/4" MDF costs, even making two tops a year is next to nothing in terms of material costs.

I might also replace the casters with some really nice polyurethane/ball bearing rollers I bought a while back - but the casters have proven to work really well so I might just leave them on as well.

AJC

[Ajcoholic]

So I spent 1/2 the day today getting the new table made and installed.

I left the sheet full width (61") which allowed the wooden spacer blocks that went bewteen my side rails and the angle/wheel hold downs to be discarded. Now the hold down wheels are even more rigid.

I also left the length the full 6' of the buddy aluminum extrusion. And, I added 5 more T tracks for a total of 11, spaced 5" apart. Now I can hold down the edge of a 48" square sheet with my aluminum clamps just catching the outer 1/2".

Bolted down and surfaced, she's ready to go and hopefully last another year :)

WHile I had the powerstick off, I cleaned and regreased the pinions, oiled the rails, checked the tightness of the spindle bolts and gave everything a good cleaning (it wasnt too bad I am a neat freak). Its good to go I figure for 2013!

AJC

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j307/ajcoholic/IMG_0648-1_zps92de99c4.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j307/ajcoholic/IMG_0650-1_zps889add81.jpg

[Simops]

Andrew been following your table layout since beginning of this thread.....

3 quick questions come to mind.....

1. Your 'roller wheel stabilisers' are they on both bottom and top......it seems to be on top only .....what happens if the deck curls down?

2. Notice you use the deck as the spoil board as well....this seems not the usual convention. When you surface the table, 48 x 48 in this case you are pocketing down into the deck. How do you find that with sheet material placement on the deck? Also what allowance are you giving yourself between the alum T track and surface considering future re-surfacing and cut depth.

3. The T track dados are all the way across the table deck.....did you use a hand held router to this as the spindle won't go all the way across to the edge....well not on mine.

Cheers
Mike

[Ajcoholic]

Andrew been following your table layout since beginning of this thread.....

3 quick questions come to mind.....

1. Your 'roller wheel stabilisers' are they on both bottom and top......it seems to be on top only .....what happens if the deck curls down?

2. Notice you use the deck as the spoil board as well....this seems not the usual convention. When you surface the table, 48 x 48 in this case you are pocketing down into the deck. How do you find that with sheet material placement on the deck? Also what allowance are you giving yourself between the alum T track and surface considering future re-surfacing and cut depth.

3. The T track dados are all the way across the table deck.....did you use a hand held router to this as the spindle won't go all the way across to the edge....well not on mine.

Cheers
Mike

Mike, the rollers I put on the top only... The big rollers are already on the underside. The mdf is trapped between them.

I don't cut into the top. When I machine parts I use a half sheet of 1/4mdf as my spoil board. It's cheap here, I use both sides and then dispose of it.

I didn't cut the t tracks, I cut strips of mdf, rabbet the edge and then glue and screw the strips to the base layer of mdf from underneath. I just surface the top lightly every so often to make sure it's still flat. So far it stays very flat, but if it wants to curl, it always seems to want to go up.

[Simops]

Thanks Andrew....

Mike, the rollers I put on the top only... The big rollers are already on the underside. The mdf is trapped between them.

Mmmm...i would of thought the rollers underneath weren't extensive enough to give counter pressure against your stabiliser wheels.....but obviously works for you. I would of thought it would have needed something underneath to oppose the stabilisers....


I don't cut into the top. When I machine parts I use a half sheet of 1/4mdf as my spoil board. It's cheap here, I use both sides and then dispose of it.

Ok makes sense.....


I didn't cut the t tracks, I cut strips of mdf, rabbet the edge and then glue and screw the strips to the base layer of mdf from underneath. I just surface the top lightly every so often to make sure it's still flat. So far it stays very flat, but if it wants to curl, it always seems to want to go up.

Oh ok I see what you have done.....neat. When you say surface the top I gather you mean the 1/4" MDF spoilboard.
I guess it must be north / south hemisphere thing because here I have had the decks curl down always or me:rolleyes:

Cheers

[Ajcoholic]

Thanks Andrew....


Mmmm...i would of thought the rollers underneath weren't extensive enough to give counter pressure against your stabiliser wheels.....but obviously works for you. I would of thought it would have needed something underneath to oppose the stabilisers....



Ok makes sense.....



Oh ok I see what you have done.....neat. When you say surface the top I gather you mean the 1/4" MDF spoilboard.
I guess it must be north / south hemisphere thing because here I have had the decks curl down always or me:rolleyes:

Cheers

I do surface the laminated MDF top. So it is flat in the 48 by 48" working surface. The 1/4" MDF is uniformly flat so I dont have to do anything to it, just place it under the parts I am machining (if I am cutting all the way through that is, if not I just go directly on the big top).

I cant see how the top would/could curl downwards, if the upper rollers are holding it down onto the 6 buddy rollers, how could it curl further downwards? Also, being 1 1/2" thick it tends to stay pretty flat vs a single sheet of 3/4 or 1" like I tried originally.

Remember on the buddy, the only place the working surface needs to stay "flat" is under the gantry. If the sheet curls up or down as it passes past the rollers, it doesnt matter. When it comes back to the center of the machine and gets stuck again in between the rollers, it remains in the same position.

I check my table often, with a 4 foot aluminum straight edge. Maybe I got lucky, but it stayed flat. And, when I cut parts from a 4 foot by 4 foot sheet, I can see in the 1/4" spoilboard how deep the cutter goes. Its always within a few thousandths and worst case has been out about 0".010

[RhinoFabLab]

Very nice!

[Bob Eustace]

Hi Andrew

Have finally bitten the bullet and about to start building table edge pressure rollers. Totally agree with almost all your logic but would love to hear your reasoning for gluing two chunks of 3/4 together. We can get 32mm MR here at reasonable cost. Could you share your thoughts on this before I buy some tomorrow please if possible. Did you go the glue system because of your tracks and the strip idea? Got some superb ball bearing rollers from Chrissy and I reckon these could well see me out!

How have you faired with regards to clamp collisions. We waste a lot of time keeping Z too high. Probably due to lack of confidence!

[Ajcoholic]

Update on the table..

Firstly, sometime a few months ago I replaced the cheap hardware store casters for my hold down, to polyurethane/ball bearing "scooter" wheels. These are basically like oversize roller-blade wheels. Much smoother and no squeaks.

Next, after a year of use on the table I made this time of year a year ago - and some resurfacing - the MDF started getting thin over the aluminum tracks and was lifting up when I tightened the hold downs.

Rather than replace the entire top - I decided to try something new. I took some 6mm Baltic Birch - and cut it into 5" strips (the width of the table between tracks) and glued it down and tacked it with some plastic brads. I resurfaced the table this morning as I was running a bunch of cabinet gables and shlef pin holes - and found the BB much less "slippery" than MDF and the pressure needed to clamp was much less to avoid slipping. Also, the strength is amazingly strong when clamping and no flexing up of the T tracks occurs.

Time will tell if the BB ont the MDF will cause curling issues, etc.

Pics later..

AJC

[Ajcoholic]

Here are the new hold down rollers

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j307/ajcoholic/IMG_1557_zpse75f886a.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/ajcoholic/media/IMG_1557_zpse75f886a.jpg.html)

and the Baltic birch strips glued onto the MDF

I find the BB much less "slippery" than the MDF and less clamping pressure is required to hold parts from moving.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j307/ajcoholic/IMG_1558_zps1234606b.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/ajcoholic/media/IMG_1558_zps1234606b.jpg.html)

[Bob Eustace]

A million thanks for all your research and trials you did on table improvements Andrew. Thanks to you our Buddy is far more accurate. On the new wheels others might be interested to know that Rockler have "ball bearing jig wheels" urethane tyres, 2 3/8 OD, 3/4 thick, and 5/16 centre hole (perfect for this application!). On special at present for $9.99 for 4 pak! Pn 48613 - page 43 in January catalogue. Oddly these DONT show up on the website???? Your new birch idea is a good one I reckon and better than messing with loose sheets and simplifies using guides when needed.

[Ajcoholic]

Bob, so far it seems to be working well, the Baltic birch that is.

One issue I sometimes have is that with the 1 1/2" thick board on my power stick, I am at times unable to cut thicker shapes as I run out of Z.

I might try a new board sometime, maybe laminated up from thinner material. Even getting 1/2" back in Z clearance would help with a few of my longer ball end bits I use for carving.

[Burkhardt]

I experimented for a while with different wheels for my moving extension table (similar concept to the Buddy but passively powered).

The best I found were 54mm skateboard wheels that can be found in durometers up to 99a and that are turned true and flat on the outside. They are more concentric than the usual inline skate bearings that come with a round outside directly from the mold. The flat surface and hard PU rubber also minimize the flex. You just have to pop in 2 cheap 8mm skate bearings and can mount it on a 5/16" or 8mm bolt.

[Bob Eustace]

I experimented for a while with different wheels for my moving extension table (similar concept to the Buddy but passively powered).

The best I found were 54mm skateboard wheels that can be found in durometers up to 99a and that are turned true and flat on the outside. They are more concentric than the usual inline skate bearings that come with a round outside directly from the mold. The flat surface and hard PU rubber also minimize the flex. You just have to pop in 2 cheap 8mm skate bearings and can mount it on a 5/16" or 8mm bolt.

Can you possibly post a pic of your experiments Gert to add to the knowledge bank???

[Simops]

Bob, so far it seems to be working well, the Baltic birch that is.

One issue I sometimes have is that with the 1 1/2" thick board on my power stick, I am at times unable to cut thicker shapes as I run out of Z

Andrew have you thought of dropping the Buddy floor or raising the gantry by a inch or so.....I believe others have done this and something I have considered, especially with going to vacuum, which would benefit my cutting requirements. An additional inch or two I don't think would make much difference to the existing Z travel (I could be wrong) but that additional amount would make big difference on a Buddy.

Cheers

[Ajcoholic]

Not really wanting to dismantle my machine... It's working so nicely!

I guess the stock z allows work clamped directly to the power stick full height range. My issue is the top stop is hit sometimes when I want to do a deeper carved part with an extended bit. I guess one solution would be put my 4' power stick on with a thin board just enough to hold the part. I should try it. Most of my shaped parts don't need the 4 x 4 table of course.

The 6' stick with the 1.5" thick mdf at 5' by 6' is HEAVY... A two man job to take off. I am thinking I should make a cart the right height that I can single handily remove the large table and the use the shorter stick without a thick spoil board.

I'll post back if I get a chance...

[Burkhardt]

Can you possibly post a pic of your experiments Gert to add to the knowledge bank???

I did not take pictures of the wheels that did not work for my purposes but here is one of the mentioned wheels that I have on the machine now. Don't get confused by the pulleys, ropes and other junk. I am talking about the 2 grey wheels that are riding on the extruded aluminum angle. I use that whole contraption only when machining parts longer than 34". Normally this machine is a simple fixed table/moving gantry device and I store the long moving table under the garage rafters.

I bought the wheels on Amazon 2 years ago and these specific ones are no longer available but they are similar to this set (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038AXXNK).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MKWBy7yPrq0/UOkEIFTqZiI/AAAAAAAADrg/iaDGc0WTSQM/w1024-h768-no/DSC01279.JPG

[Simops]

The 6' stick with the 1.5" thick mdf at 5' by 6' is HEAVY... A two man job to take off. I am thinking I should make a cart the right height that I can single handily remove the large table and the use the shorter stick without a thick spoil board.

I'll post back if I get a chance...

Yes the concept of removing and re-inserting the stick with a table affixed to it is good in theory but not in practice as a one man show in a cramped space!!! Definitely either a two man task or if you have the space a roll on / roll off cart is the way to go! I'm sure you have the space so this would be a good solution for you.
In my case I will have to leave the 4 x 4 table on their (which is all I need) and make do with a permanent solution.....raising the gantry a couple of inches maybe better for me......once I get the courage to do it!

Cheers

[Ajcoholic]

Yes the concept of removing and re-inserting the stick with a table affixed to it is good in theory but not in practice as a one man show in a cramped space!!! Definitely either a two man task or if you have the space a roll on / roll off cart is the way to go! I'm sure you have the space so this would be a good solution for you.
In my case I will have to leave the 4 x 4 table on their (which is all I need) and make do with a permanent solution.....raising the gantry a couple of inches maybe better for me......once I get the courage to do it!

Cheers

It would be nice if they sold a set of side plates that were indeed 2 or 3 inches higher than the stock ones.

My Buddy is actually not out in the open, but in a room I had added to the main shop dedicated for housing the Buddy and my band resaw, and manual wood lathe. I have room off to the end the table comes off however and I think it would be do-able. Just have to do it! I havent used the power stick that came with the machine since the initial testing, and since I put on the 6' one. But, I still think for my furniture parts it would make more sense to use it.

[Bob Eustace]

Andrew and Mike - I believe Shopbot include the side extensions in the optional long Z kit. Could be worthwhile to check out prices.

[Ajcoholic]

Andrew and Mike - I believe Shopbot include the side extensions in the optional long Z kit. Could be worthwhile to check out prices.

But that raises it to 12" no? Thats way too high for the standard Z travel. I have enough travel, just that the deck is too high for some stuff.

2" raised up would be perfect. Just offset the deck height.

[Simops]

But that raises it to 12" no? Thats way too high for the standard Z travel. I have enough travel, just that the deck is too high for some stuff.

2" raised up would be perfect. Just offset the deck height.

Yes agreed......12" is no good as would cause rigidity issues I believe and also the z travel is not enough in the standard fit (would need longer rack, etc). I would be happy with just a couple of extra inches....that's all!
I'm sure it would not be hard to do.....just takes a bit of thinking and doing......at the moment the 100 degree temperature is melting my brain:(

Cheers

[Bob Eustace]

No it only raises it another 6 inches and it cerainly doesnt look shakey. You dont have to use all the room as you just attach the table in higher slots. Best to call spares.

[Ajcoholic]

I have had some ideas in the recent weeks that I think would bring my Buddy table system up even more notches so to speak...

I'll discuss later, but I think I've found the hardware to improve things even a significant amount over what I am doing now for my table.

Will probably cost me a little over a grand in hardware but I think it would be worth the investment....

More soon :)

[Ajcoholic]

Ok, I am waiting in Toronto for my final flight of three to get back home from a South Carolina... So I have some time.

What I propose is this... With the bed rollers, and my addition of the upper rollers to hold my mdf table down, it has worked out quite well. Actually really well. However, like most woodworkers and machinery nuts I cannot leave well enough alone, and I have been thinking of improving things.

I recently ordered two lengths of round steel ground shafting on an aluminum base, on which two linear bearings will run. My idea is to mount the rails to the edge of my table, and then the two nuts, which are in square machined aluminum blocks, on the side plates of my buddy. Once aligned, the rails should both hold the table edge from moving up or down. Keeping things more accurate.

As well, I am looking at replacing my 1 1/2" thick MDF top with a 20mm solid aluminum bed made up from 6 pcs of 250mm wide extrusions. Running perpendicular to the power stick, aand the ends would all be aligned up and attached to the linear rail.

Then I would have the same 5' square working surface but a lot more t slots, and the whole works should not be affected by changes in humidity.

If I want to cut through, I just use a PC of 1/4" mdf on top of the aluminum as I am doing now with the MDF top anyhow. It would also allow enough height for me to add the vacuum system for cutting sheet stock I plan to add the future, but be easily removed to use just the alum. Deck for my general wood shaping and machining.

That's the plan, Stan! So me parts are on their way, some I am still waiting for pricing.

More to report back when I start working on it....

[Bob Eustace]

This is what happens when "thinkers" go on long flights. Best of luck!

[Ajcoholic]

This is what happens when "thinkers" go on long flights. Best of luck!

Bob, if you can envision this... think an aluminum bed that shouldnt want to warp up or down with the seasons - with a lot more T slots than I presently have in my MDF top... that is held from lifting or sagging along the entire 6' power stick length as it comes back and forth over the machine by the linear rails. Awesome!

The rails and bearings/blocks are en route. I am still waiting to get some pricing and feedback, on various aluminum extrusions (solid, hollow forms, etc) that I will be able to join together to make one massive 5' square bed. I like to have the 6" around the perimeter to have room for clamps when I cut from a 4' square sheet.

The rails and guide blocks ended up costing me about $350 C shipped to me. The alumimum deck I am expecting substantially more.. but should decide and order it up this week.

AJC

[Simops]

I look forward to seeing some pics of the new setup!
So you reckon you'll save an inch of Z height?

Cheers

[Bob Eustace]

What diameter bar are you thinking of Andrew?

[Ajcoholic]

What diameter bar are you thinking of Andrew?

I ordered 16mm x 2000mm long. The 16mm (just over 5/8") was decently priced and I feel will be more than adequate since it is mounted on a T style aluminum rail the full length (which will in turn get bolted to the edges of the table).

I just got a price from Isel for some of the solid 20mm thick aluminum decking. Yikes, it would cost me close to 3 thousand shipped to me!

I will wait for a price from 80/20 metals - that is the extruded hollow form stuff like what the buddy itself is made from.

It is available here in Canada. The Isel metal, just for freight - would have been almost $500 due to it having to come by transport.

I know this will work out, just have to find the right place to get the material. I am hoping to spend around 1 thousand tops for the table.

Otherwise, I might redesign the wooden table with inset alum t tracks... we'll see.

[Tom Bachman]

Well, I guess this is the place for the discussion of tables on Buddys' I just got the 6' power stick installed on my BT32. I proceeded to make a 2 layer, 1/2" each layer, MDF table. I made it 48 x 43 1/2. It appears to me that the new power stick is thinner than the original one, as then sides curl up on the new board. It doesn't appear that there is enough room on the rollers to drop it enough to make up the difference.

What am I missing?

Also, I find that moving the table in the X axis I only have about 40" of motion, not the 48" I was expecting.

Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

[Burkhardt]

[QUOTE=Ajcoholic;164559].....I will wait for a price from 80/20 metals -...[QUOTE]

80/20 has an ebay shop (http://www.ebay.com/itm/8020-T-Slot-Aluminum-Extrusion-15-S-1545-x-72-Long-N-/330365977452?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ceb58c36c) that sometimes sells surplus quantities of fixed length. You may want to look there. I paid for my 48"x36" table made from black anodized 1545 profiles (1.5" x 4.5") about $400. That was 2 or 3 years ago.

[Simops]

Well, I guess this is the place for the discussion of tables on Buddys' I just got the 6' power stick installed on my BT32. I proceeded to make a 2 layer, 1/2" each layer, MDF table. I made it 48 x 43 1/2. It appears to me that the new power stick is thinner than the original one, as then sides curl up on the new board. It doesn't appear that there is enough room on the rollers to drop it enough to make up the difference.

What am I missing?

Also, I find that moving the table in the X axis I only have about 40" of motion, not the 48" I was expecting.

Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

Tom, you can adjust the rollers......use a straight edge across the stick and adjust rollers. As to travel distance.....check that the bolt that triggers the proximity switch is placed correctly.

Cheers

[Tom Bachman]

OK, thanks, I'll check that tomorrow and adjust the rollers.

[mwpfeifer]

Andrew,
Have you given any though to using a composite honeycomb table? Very light, rigid and strong. Aside from making it myself I don't know where to purchase anything along these lines but we used this construction method for satellite structure in my previous line of work before I retired. I have also seen this used in the building of experimental homebuilt aircraft so the materials are readily available; essentially fiberglass or carbon fiber cloth, bakelite or aluminum honeycomb and epoxy. Integrating T-track into this type of structure would be interesting to say the least. Probably make more sense to use a low profile track and MDF or whatever between the tracks. Too bad I didn't think of this when I was still employed; would be a fun project.

[Ajcoholic]

Well Ive decided upon an aluminum extrusion from Techno Isel.

They are out of stock until July, so it will be at least say 6 weeks or so until I will be working on this. Cost will be about $1000 for the material plus freight to me.

I did look into 80/20 - but as of yet no one has gotten back to me. The Isel rep has returned my emails and questions immediately every time, and I spoke to him on the phone today. Sounds like a well run outfit.

I'm not going to attempt to try anything exotic or unknown territory for me... ill stick with the known stuff. I doubt you can go wrong with the aluminum T slot extrusions...

[Ajcoholic]

Also, I find that moving the table in the X axis I only have about 40" of motion, not the 48" I was expecting.


you should actually have a little more than 48" able to be cut in both directions on a BT48 with 6' power stick

[Tom Bachman]

OK guys, I have a problem. The 6' powerstick that I got for my BT32 is considerably thinner than the 4' I took off.

Simops said to adjust the rollers, well, the brackets that hold the rollers are about a quarter inch higher than the top of the powerstick, let alone the rollers.

A measurement from the > to the top of the powerstick on the 6' is .6 the same measurement on the 4' one is .826

How do I compensate for that?

[Simops]

Tom I would contact SB ...... Doesn't sound right.......both my 4' and 6' stick are same thickness......??

Regards

[Tom Bachman]

Here's a picture of a straight edge across the "bulkheads" which house the rollers. Note the gap under the board where it goes over the powerstick.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/toms94/furniture/NCM_0025_zps306ca583.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/toms94/media/furniture/NCM_0025_zps306ca583.jpg.html)

[Bob Eustace]

Tom something is seriously wrong there! What is the tickness of the power stick please.

[Ajcoholic]

It looks like the V ways might have been installed upside down. The center of the V is offset, and if the side with the overhang was down instead of up, the powerstick height would be "higher".

The extrusion that the powersticks are made from is the same, that is the only thing I can see being different. The steel V ways might be able to be pulled out and reinstalled the other way.

[Ajcoholic]

Just checked close up photos of mine... unfortunately, mine are installed the same way so my theory is probably incorrect.

[Bob Eustace]

Tom please check if the distance between the pressed steel bed and table underside is 2.125. Distance from "apex of the V" to table top is 1.5". Yours of course wont be upside down!

[Tom Bachman]

Been gone all day, I'll go check it out tomorrow. Thanks guys.

[Tom Bachman]

The extrusions are VERY different. This is the one that came with the machine. This one measures 1 9/16 (roughly)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/toms94/furniture/NCM_0027_zpsff5bfc6d.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/toms94/media/furniture/NCM_0027_zpsff5bfc6d.jpg.html)

And this is the new powerstick I got earlier this month. Total height on this one is 1 7/8

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/toms94/furniture/NCM_0025_zps306ca583.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/toms94/media/furniture/NCM_0025_zps306ca583.jpg.html)

I guess I'd better call ShopBot tomorrow

[Simops]

That's what I would do!

[Tom Bachman]

I think I baffled tech support, they are going to check it out and get back with me.

[Ajcoholic]

Both of mine (the 48" that came with the machine, and the 6' that I use mainly) are like the 2nd photo - with the three "legs" underneath.

[Simops]

I'm pretty sure mine are as per the first photo.....I don't remember the legs like that.....I'm interstate on business so can't check but mine would be the same as Bob's Buddy......Bob what have you got?

Cheers

[Ajcoholic]

Mine are most definitely the extrusion with the three legs underneath.

I have photos on my computer I checked with this evening. 100% sure.

I know my bed rollers (the ones on the machine not my additions) are also just slightly above the painted blue sheet metal frame.

AJC

[Tom Bachman]

They told me that I got the wrong powerstick and they are sending me the correct one. I need a 2nd generation instead of a third. Anyway, they figured it out and are going to make it right.

[Simops]

Ah....right so the third generation are thinner and so must give you more Z depth.....maybe that's why you have more Z depth than what I have Andrew.....

Cheers

[Ajcoholic]

I just got a quote from Hubbard CNC for a 5 by 5 foot table in their system or aluminum. Cheaper by several hundred than the Techno Isel and it is in stock.

Does anyone have any experience hands on with these extruded tables?

It is going to be close to a grand shipped and I do not want to be disappointed with the results.

AJC

[Ajcoholic]

Well I ordered the table (the size I need is 56" by 59") from Hubbard today. $990 shipped to me here in Canada.

I also ordered some 1 1/2" by 2 1/2" 6061-T6 aluminum angle (1/4" wall) that I will use to bolt the table segments to along the edges, and also that the steel hardened rail will bolt to - with the linear bearings getting fastened to the Buddy side plates.

I am hoping, since everything is coming UPS, that within a few weeks I will have all the components here to get this table up and running.

I imagine it will take me the better part of a day to get the table assembled and bolted together to the angle, and the rails on and set up.

I sure hope this will be worth the cost and effort... :)

[Simops]

Andrew,...Looking forward to seeing how your project develops......keep us informed with pics....

Good luck.....

Cheers

[Ajcoholic]

Andrew,...Looking forward to seeing how your project develops......keep us informed with pics....

Good luck.....

Cheers

Oh you know I will.

After this, assuming everything works out, I want to machine a vacuum plenum from a 48" by 48" pc of 3/4" thick UHMW plastic and buy a vacuum to get more efficient at cutting sheet parts.

Dont worry pics will definitely be posted! :D

[Simops]

I want to machine a vacuum plenum from a 48" by 48" pc of 3/4" thick UHMW plastic and buy a vacuum to get more efficient at cutting sheet parts. :D

Ok now you have my undivided attention ......!
The main reason I have scaled down my aluminium cutting and farming it back out to my laser cutter is because I don't have vacuum ..... which I need to properly cut thin alluminium.

Cheers

[bleeth]

Andrew:
Adhering your spoilboard to a UHMW plenum may be a bit of a challange. If you use a plastic product you may want to go PVC instead.
FYI: Mine has been normal MDF sealed with Shellac for years with no issue. In 10 years I only replaced it once.

[Ajcoholic]

Andrew:
Adhering your spoilboard to a UHMW plenum may be a bit of a challange. If you use a plastic product you may want to go PVC instead.
FYI: Mine has been normal MDF sealed with Shellac for years with no issue. In 10 years I only replaced it once.

You know, thats how we did it back in college (MDF routered and then lacquered). Forgot about that. I will give it a try for sure - much cheaper as well.

I though the MDF sacrificial board just sat on the plenum board, and was sucked down with the vacuum. I guess gluing it down and then reseurfacing as needed would be the way to go.

As a side note, the 2000mm long 16mm linear rails and bearings made it here today, looked intact (I didnt cut the packaging yet but looks good). 3 weeks to come from China. Not bad.

Now lets see how long the table extrusions will take to come from California... by UPS. I estimate 2 weeks.

[bleeth]

I think they have fast freight shuttle service between China and Little Hong Kong (Vancouver):rolleyes:

There are some who use removable spoil-boards but I never have. I like the airways completely internal. Last thing I want is some hunk of debris getting into the system and turning my blower into an anchor. When I put my spoil-board down to my plenum I first skin it on one side and then flip it and glue it at that point and skin it again. I also make sure I have surfaced my plenum before cutting the airways. For the spoil-board it's always Ultralight or Trupan.
When it's "done" I put a couple coats of sealer (shellac) around the edges too.
When I permanently adhere the spoilboard I have a small bit hanging over x & y zero and then trim it after with the spindle. I usually trim X first and Y twice. Once to check square a little below zero and then a final trim at zero. (Actually -.25 with a .5 bit).

[Simops]

Dave, is there an alternative to a Ultralight or Trupan.......I have searched for these in this country for past 2 years without success....only standard MDF available!
Cheers

[Ajcoholic]

Mike, I also have not seen anything but regular MDF here in my part of Canada. However, all the CNC shops I know use it and they done have any issue, as long as you skim both faces.

Here are the 16mm linear rails. They came in 2000mm. I actually will cut about 7 inches off the length.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j307/ajcoholic/image-1_zps44aa08b4.jpeg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/ajcoholic/media/image-1_zps44aa08b4.jpeg.html)

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j307/ajcoholic/image_zpsbbe897bd.jpeg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/ajcoholic/media/image_zpsbbe897bd.jpeg.html)

The table aluminum is due to arrive a week from tomorrow, based on the tracking info. I am out of town next friday until the following Monday so it will be at least until the last week of June before I am able to do any work on the router anyhow.

As for vacuum, I think - based upon my research and what I plan to do with my CNC, a Fuji 10 HP regen blower/vac (110 "H2O/8.1 "Hg/ 4psi, and 388 cfm)

I can get one locally for $2500 Canadian brand new, which seems to be a decent price. Will have to wait a few months though, I am expecting a new edgebander coming this summer :)

[bleeth]

Andy is correct. mdf does work. uldf is just a little better.
I think your 10HP should be just fine. I've been using a 7.5 on my 4 x 8 for years. The main thing is to ensure your piping is large enough diameter. When I first hooked it up I used 1 or 1 1/2" (Been a while-not sure which) and it was OK, but when I had a reason to redo it I went to 2" and my results improved dramatically.

[Ajcoholic]

Andy is correct. mdf does work. uldf is just a little better.
I think your 10HP should be just fine. I've been using a 7.5 on my 4 x 8 for years. The main thing is to ensure your piping is large enough diameter. When I first hooked it up I used 1 or 1 1/2" (Been a while-not sure which) and it was OK, but when I had a reason to redo it I went to 2" and my results improved dramatically.

The Fuji 7 HP regen blower is substantially cheaper than the 10 HP one - about a grand less here.

Do you think for my 48" by 48" table 7 HP (which should give 267 CFM and approx 3.5 PSI) that would be adequate for holding cabinet parts?

[Simops]

Dave /Andrew........do they make the 7.5 hp Regen in 240 volts 50 hz AC?

Cheers

[bleeth]

I don't see why not. I've cut sheets with a heck of a lot of smaller parts on them with success.
Mike-I bought mine used around 7-8 years ago. It is a very basic regen with no filters, etc. It just sits on the floor near the back overhead door with a pipe from the table going in and an exhaust aiming out the door. It is 3PH. I have no idea who makes what in this arena when it comes to specific models and electrical needs.
For you Andrew; you could use it to heat your shop in the winter!!

[danhamm]

Good shop heaters, 4hp each both for $790.00 to port 144 inches of water column, 220/1phase

[Ajcoholic]

Good shop heaters, 4hp each both for $790.00 to port 144 inches of water column, 220/1phase

Are you wanting to sell them? What make/model/age? I'd really prefer 3 phase, as my whole shop is wired for it, and not too much 220V single phase.

[danhamm]

No, I don't want to sell just bought them...ordered a 7.5 HP then was told it was 3 phase so the offered 2- 4hp for same price, heres the page.

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/JQT-5500-C-7-5HP-cnc_1623707222.html

[Ajcoholic]

I think after looking confusingly at that site, I'll stick with ordering the 10 hp Fuji regen from the local mechanical supplier. At least that way I have an easy to obtain warranty ( no shipping) and someone local I can yell at in English if I have any issues :).

I don't mind ordering stuff that I can fix myself if needed, directly from China. But something like this I personally want to have a local shop I can deal with if any issues arise. Just in case!

I'm pretty much set on the single 10 Hp blower. It should be great for my 16 sq foot cutting surface and still adequate for 4x8 if I ever decide to get a larger shopbot. Or I can get a second 10 Hp unit and run two independent zones.

I have enough room in my 3 phase panel yet.

[danhamm]

Sorry I intruded, Andrew!
I have lost my fears of ordering and using Chinese Equipment
what few issue's I have had were dealt with in a very fair manner
and time wise DHL from china is 3 days where anything stateside is 2 to 3 weeks.

[Ajcoholic]

No need to be sorry. It's good to have options. But I guess I don't have the guts to order something like that direct. The Fuji is made in China anyhow. That's not my point. I just like to deal with people that are closer is at all possible. The same reason all my equipment with the exception of the shopbot router came from Akhurst Machinery here in ontario. If I ever have any questions or issues they are easy to get a hold of and only 1.5 hrs by plane. :). I'm actually going down soon for a day of training for my new edge bander.

I'm still scoping out used units but on the long run I think buying new is going to make me feel better. Costs more but I know what I'll get...

Did you already receive the units? And using them?

[Simops]

No, I don't want to sell just bought them...ordered a 7.5 HP then was told it was 3 phase so the offered 2- 4hp for same price, heres the page.

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/JQT-5500-C-7-5HP-cnc_1623707222.html

Dan, I've been looking a vacuum pump for some time but had difficulty because of the 240VAC 50 Hz single phase requirement here. I could only find very expensive units in the thousands. I checked your link and emailed them. Single phase is only available up to 2.2kw otherwise need 3 phase.

Anyhow they can offer 2 x 2.2 KW Regen units for $660 each delivered. This us attractive but not sure if it will be adequate.

First of all.....is 2.2kw equivalent to what in Hp???

I also have a 4 x 4 buddy table and was looking to zone that in half.....above offered blower to each zone......would that do it?

Cheers

[danhamm]

I paid much less than that, I ordered from INtech, quite a few Items and there price was 790.00 for the 7.5 but exchanged for the 2- they said 4 hp
but wattage wise its 3 hp, each.

[Simops]

I paid much less than that, I ordered from INtech, quite a few Items and there price was 790.00 for the 7.5 but exchanged for the 2- they said 4 hp
but wattage wise its 3 hp, each.

Dan, I went to the link you posted......I thought that was who you dealt with? Who's INtech now....link?

I can't see a wattage but it is 240VAC drawing 9.7 (delta symbol) / 7.6Y. .....what ever that means?

I asked them specifically about a 4 Hp version and they said not available nor made for single phase 240V at 50 Hz. What is the model number of yours?

The one they quoted me is the JQT2200.

Cheers

[Ajcoholic]

Dan, I went to the link you posted......I thought that was who you dealt with? Who's INtech now....link?

I can't see a wattage but it is 240VAC drawing 9.7 (delta symbol) / 7.6Y. .....what ever that means?

I asked them specifically about a 4 Hp version and they said not available nor made for single phase 240V at 50 Hz. What is the model number of yours?

The one they quoted me is the JQT2200.

Cheers

Delta and wye are two ways to wire up a three phase motor. The three stator windings can be connected end to end with one leg of the feed connected to each junction. This draws more power but each winding sees full line voltage. Wye connects one leg of each stator winding together and then the legs of three phase to each end of the stator windings. This means two stator winding in series which equals reduced power and torque but less current.

Many three phase motors are started in wye and switched over to delta (either manually or more frequently today automatically with auto controls) to reduce the start up current and eliminate belt slippage on torquey motors.

All my new equipment uses timers and electronic controls to do this.
In my previous shop all the motors had there position switches. Off, start up and run after the motor came up to speed.

Delta and wye are nothing to do with single phase motors.

[Simops]

Ok in that case I have no idea what the wattage is for the model they quoted.....which was the largest they could do in single phase. I can ask them.

Ta

[Ajcoholic]

This is one reason I would rather deal with someone here, who I know exactly what I am ordering (specs are clear and no ambiguity).

But then, I am not a gambling man :D

[Simops]

Actually I'm a bit dumb......actually I know what the watts is......it is specified as a 2.2KW unit......well that's 2200 watts......duh!!! About 9-10 amps draw I guess?

Well Andrew I'm not a gambling man either.....don't play the lottery and haven't bet on a horse in 20 years:p
But one thing I do know is that things here are on average 2 - 3 times more expensive for same thing your end!! I've had no luck finding something similar here for under a couple gran.....so $660 is attractive delivered.

Of course it is a risk as not as good as buying local with local warranty. And besides would prefer to support local......but money does not grow on trees either!

Anyhow still considering what to do.....maybe purchase one unit and try it out????

Cheers

[Ajcoholic]

Woo hoo! The aluminum table components from Hubbard are set to arrive tomorrow!!

:D:D:D

[Ajcoholic]

Well, its here! And, the aluminum looks amazing. Flat and straight, much heavier than expected. A really nice extrusion.

I am going out of town for three days, and next week I have a cabinet job to install 100 miles out of town so I will be tied up for a bit. I am hoping to get working on the "new and improved Buddy BT48 table MKIII" soon after.

I will start a new thread when I do.

Here are some pics - the aluminum from Hubbard, and the linear rails and the 1 1/2" by 2 1/2" 6061-T6 angle (1/4" wall) that will connect the table edges to the linear rails.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j307/ajcoholic/IMG_2137_zps06f3613b.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/ajcoholic/media/IMG_2137_zps06f3613b.jpg.html)

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j307/ajcoholic/IMG_2136_zps4b0ee673.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/ajcoholic/media/IMG_2136_zps4b0ee673.jpg.html)

[ssflyer]

Looks good, Andrew.

Looking forward to seeing it all assembled!

Too bad shipping and suppliers for 8020 don't seem to be very available in Canada!

THIS (http://www.ebay.com/itm/8020-T-Slot-Aluminum-Extrusion-10-S-1030-x-24-N-/330297637790?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ce745fb9e) is what I was thinking about when I recommended them.

[Ajcoholic]

Looks good, Andrew.

Looking forward to seeing it all assembled!

Too bad shipping and suppliers for 8020 don't seem to be very available in Canada!

THIS (http://www.ebay.com/itm/8020-T-Slot-Aluminum-Extrusion-10-S-1030-x-24-N-/330297637790?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ce745fb9e) is what I was thinking about when I recommended them.

Ron, that is what I was going to purchase (or very close to it) from Techno Isel. But two issues - it is thicker (losing a bit more Z height) and also how do you connect the pcs together?

With the Hubbard, each slotted section is held down by the mating aluminum extrusion which also levels off the space in between the slots.

Ill take some close up shots when I work on it. I really think this is going to be the ticket to a totally flat, stable and therefore accurate surface 12 months of the year.

If I sound excited, I am! :D

The whole works should weigh in at about 200 lbs for the full table/rails. The table extrusions are 140 pounds, and the linear rails and angle are (I am estimating) another 50 or 60 pounds.

My present 1 1/2" thick MDF table at 60" by 60" weighs in at about 160 pounds. I dont think it will make much difference. I can get up on the table (all 190 lbs of me) and it still moves fine :)

[ssflyer]

Yeah, I thought about the depth, but it is only 1". 8020 actually has fasteners that do exactly that...

In any case, I would have bought what you got - no engineering!!!

[Ajcoholic]

So its sunday afternoon here. I just returned from 3 days away.

I dropped into the shop to see what the guys did on Friday, and I should be ahead a little bit from where I expected.

I plan tomorrow to at least get a start on the new Buddy table.

I will start a new thread to keep it simple and clear - in case it really works out and someone else might want to do it. If it turns into a mess well, then you'll all know what not to do :)

[Bob Eustace]

We are all waiting in eager anticipation Andrew!

[Ajcoholic]

We are all waiting in eager anticipation Andrew!

Today was a bust - too busy getting ready for a big install tomorrow (cabinets, 2 hrs out of town). by the time I had everything loaded and my tools together for tomorrow, I had only time to remove the MDF table off my powerstick, and just lay out the parts.

I need to get some bolts as well to start putting things together.

It looks like Wednesday will be the earliest I will be able to get things started...

In a nutshell - the linear rail bearings/blocks will first get bolted to a 36" length of aluminum angle. Then, that will get bolted to the Buddy side rails (and shimmed so they are parallel to the powerstick and the exact same distance apart). Obviously the rails, and powerstick all need to be parallel, and in the same horizontal plane.

The linear rails have to get bolted to the 1.5"x2.5" aluminum angle. The, I can set the table extrusion sections onto the powerstick and square it up to the Z car. Then start bolting the extrusions to the left and right linear rail/angle pcs.

There will be a LOT of drilling and tapping. Probably several hundred holes. That will, I presume, take me the longest time to do. But it is all 6061-T6, which taps very well, especially with the special tapping fluid I have.

Again, once I start actually posting some pictures, I will do so in a new thread.

AJC

PS you should have seen the MDF table curl up, when I released the rollers! I bet the edges of the table shot up at least 1/4" to 5/16". Those rollers I added, were certainly holding the table down onto the table rolls the best they could.

[Simops]

PS you should have seen the MDF table curl up, when I released the rollers! I bet the edges of the table shot up at least 1/4" to 5/16". Those rollers I added, were certainly holding the table down onto the table rolls the best they could.

You must have wild humidity fluctuations there .....I can see why this is such an imperative for you to do! Fortunately I don't suffer that issue here.....well I did with the original deck supplied by SB......but the 32mm 4 x 4 MDF deck I have now has remained flat for the past 10 months....just sitting on the powerstick and rollers......so I count myself lucky......so far (touch wood)......but we are entering a very wet winter so who knows??

Good luck
Cheers

[bleeth]

Hopefully you've learned to tap with a drill motor!

[Ajcoholic]

You must have wild humidity fluctuations there .....I can see why this is such an imperative for you to do! Fortunately I don't suffer that issue here.....well I did with the original deck supplied by SB......but the 32mm 4 x 4 MDF deck I have now has remained flat for the past 10 months....just sitting on the powerstick and rollers......so I count myself lucky......so far (touch wood)......but we are entering a very wet winter so who knows??

Good luck
Cheers

Yes from about 20% RH in the winter to 85% RH in summer

And yes Dave, I use a hand drill (cordless) with a clutch to tap. Pretty straightforward. But still a lot of holes to drill and tap. And countersink too.