got my x10 remotes 220v does nto work.

[knight_toolworks]

I bought two 110v controls for my 110v vac box so I can turn the vac off from either end of my machine. I bought a 220v one for my 220v vac box. but it won't work because I found my 220v is two legs of my 3 phase line. That is a no no I guess.
So far I can't find anything that would work. I can run wires and 3 way switches but the remote was less money and easier to deal with. I don't use it a lot so I may just end up living with it. I don't really want another separate remote for it

[zeykr]

An x10 phase coupler or signal bridge might fix the problem.


http://www.smarthome.com/_/ProductResults.aspx?Ntt=x10%20phase

[kubotaman]

Steve, I have done what you are doing. Just make sure that the transmitter and receiver are on the same signal. You should hear a click from both if they are working correctly. Mine are on single phase but I can't attest to the three phase working. Maybe you can test them on a single phase circuit to try to see if they work different. I would definitely make sure both are on the same "leg" on the three phase setup. If this doesn't work call them. I am sure you can do what you want.

[knight_toolworks]

the instructions say no three phase that some industrial buildings have and I asked the guy who does the wiring and I do have 3 phase. I will ask them about the phase converted and see. But everyone in the building has the same power and I don't have 220v outlets at home to test it. Got to ask someone else to try it out.

[ssflyer]

Steve,

Been awhile - memory going...

But, if it still serves me somewhat effectively...

220V is simply 2 sides of a center tapped transformer, so in essence it is 2 phase with the phases normally 180 degrees out of phase. If you are using 2 legs of your 3 phase wiring, the only difference I see is that the legs would be 120 degrees out of phase. It isn't 3 phase if you are only using 2 of the hot leads.

[steve_g]

Correct me if I'm wrong...(I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken...) house hold 220v is 2 -110v lines 180 degrees out of phase. commercial 3 phase is 3-220v lines out of phase by different amounts depending on type (delta, "Y", etc.) there is no 110 v component in 3 phase 220v that I'm aware of.

Steve

[ssflyer]

You should get 110V between any leg and neutral. The 220 component comes from any 2 hot leads. Some installations may not include the neutral line - if so, you won't be able to derive the 110.

[knight_toolworks]

I talked to the remote place I would have to get two phase converters one for each leg. so that is about 80.00 to get it right.

[gundog]

I think your switches will work fine if you are using 2 legs of the three phase as long as you are not using 2 of three phases fed from a 3 phase breaker. Many times in commercial buildings they will feed the panel with 3 phase simply to split the load center up on 3 phases rather than 2. some commercial buildings have 3 phase and only have single phase load. If your load center has a single phase 220V breaker which most do it is no different than a single phase load center feeding a single phase 220 circuit.

I hope I did not confuse that. 3 phase is simply 2 or 3 single phase transformers electrically but they can be all in one case like a 3 phase pad mounted under ground transformer.

What you are not supposed to do is add a switch that only switches 1 or 2 phases of a 3 phase service line that is protected by a 3 phase breaker and I think that is what they are telling you.

For 3 phase the secondary voltage depends on the transformer connection serving the load center. If the secondary is Y connected then you will either have 120V to ground and 208 volts phase to phase or 277 volts to ground and 480 volts phase to phase.

If your load center is fed from a delta connected transformer on the secondary you will have 120 V to ground on 2 phases and 208 volts to ground on the stinger leg. The stinger leg is 1 1/2 coils from the neutral on the transformer bank. The delta connected phase to phase will be 240 unless it is a 240/480 service then it will be 240V to ground on 2 legs and 277 to ground on the stinger leg, phase to phase voltage will be 480V. All these voltages are +/- 5% allowable variation.

Mike

[knight_toolworks]

You lost me after two sentences. :) I have no clue the building is old and a wiring nightmare with so many electrical boxes after 100 years.

[gundog]

I will put it this way. If the panel or fuse box ETC to the appliance is a 3 phase bundle of wires and you are not using 1 of the phases you should not add a switch to only switch 1 or 2 phases.

If the wire from the protection device fuses or breaker is single phase meaning 1 or 2 hot legs then the switches will be fine. It is really more about code and safety the switches don't care. I would suggest a licensed electrician to wire it if this does not make sense. I am not trying to be a smart a$$ but many fires are caused by improper wiring.

I am not that far from you Steve and I could come by and look if you like. I have worked in the utility industry for many years and although I can't work on it for you I will look and advise you.

Mike

[knight_toolworks]

if you want to look that would be great. electricity and me don't get along that well (G) Since I got to visit your shop. mine is a bit messier though.

[knight_toolworks]

I was wondering could it just be that my box is wired so the 110v and 220v don't share the same wiring and that's why the module is not working because the signal does not get to it?

this may fix it and it is cheap.
http://www.thex10shop.com/product/x10-pro-xpcp-home-automation-phase-coupler-signal-bridge

[gundog]

I will send you a PM with my phone number. I have to go to Portland for my DR apt this morning maybe I can stop by.

Mike

[knight_toolworks]

well the x10 worked for a few days then it was random if they turned on or off with one button push. sometimes it took several tries. or on my 110v setup with two with the same number one would turn on and not the second or turn off.
so if I want to do this I need to go to a wired setup. I want to go low voltage to make the wiring simple and cheap. but my question is all the relays I find that use 24v to switch them don't say 110
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Packard-C130A-1-Pole-30-Amps-24-volt-Coil-Contactor-/300564396289?pt=BI_Electrical_Equipment_Tools&hash=item45fb08b901