filling material

[khaos]

I want to make a rather intricate vcarve and fill it with a material that I would be able to mill or better yet plane down the surface after it cures without rip out or destroying my blades. Has anyone had luck with this type of operation?

-Tanx

[billp]

A lot of people have used "Inlace" with good results...

[khaos]

A lot of people have used "Inlace" with good results...

Is this the stuff? http://woodworker.com/turquoise-inlace-kit---8oz-mssu-146-669.asp

[billp]

Yup! We've seen it at a number of Camps in the past, and everyone who has used it likes the way it holds up. Because it's polyester based it has that "Eau de Bondo" fragrance until it dries, but after that it's fine...

[khaos]

Great thanks. Would you run it through a planer after it dries?

[COBOB]

OK, you will laugh. I have filled woodturnings from the lathe that I laser engraved, and items from the bot with polymer clay.

I was not sure at first if the baking temperatures would warp wood or not. It is supposed to be baked at 275 degrees. My objects did not warp. The clay tools and sands very smooth I am a big fan of shellac as sanding sealer and that worked great on the clays, except the white. That looked a little dirty.

The stuff works, and adhered well to the wood with no other preparation. The test pens I did have been in daily use for 2 years and the clay has not fallen out, cracked or anything. And because the final finish was wipe-on poly, still shiny.

Bob

[billp]

Joe,
I can't answer that, so we'll have to hope that some of the people who HAVE used it will chime in here...

[Greencarvings]

OK, you will laugh. I have filled woodturnings from the lathe that I laser engraved, and items from the bot with polymer clay.

I was not sure at first if the baking temperatures would warp wood or not. It is supposed to be baked at 275 degrees. My objects did not warp. The clay tools and sands very smooth I am a big fan of shellac as sanding sealer and that worked great on the clays, except the white. That looked a little dirty.

The stuff works, and adhered well to the wood with no other preparation. The test pens I did have been in daily use for 2 years and the clay has not fallen out, cracked or anything. And because the final finish was wipe-on poly, still shiny.

Bob


So did you bake the item afterwards to set the polymer clay?

[knight_toolworks]

epoxy works fine too. I use the slower cutting and just add colors I get from the place I buy epoxy. Did some sliding doors that way and tables.

[bleeth]

Joe:
It may mill OK but be a real blade killer and if the Inlace gets as hard as boat resin or gelcoat it will probably have a lot of chatter. Better to sand it flat.

Steve: Did you need to use a heat gun or something on the epoxy to get the bubbles out?

[knight_toolworks]

Joe:
It may mill OK but be a real blade killer and if the Inlace gets as hard as boat resin or gelcoat it will probably have a lot of chatter. Better to sand it flat.

Steve: Did you need to use a heat gun or something on the epoxy to get the bubbles out?
no as I used the longer cure and it is on the thin side. so it had plenty of time to get the bubbles out.

[bleeth]

Thanks Steve

[khaos]

It seemed like almost anything that would grip the work would be a blade killer ... didn't think about the chatter.

Could a paint do the trick?