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jTr
05-08-2012, 10:21 AM
Have seen it suggested in other threads that you may be able to use a conventional electric drill vs the SB air drill. Quite frankly, I'd like to get my new machine boring holes, but funding is tight for the air drill package and stronger compressor.
Anyone successfully using an alternative, or should I be patient while I generate funding for the proper SB accessory?

Brady Watson
05-08-2012, 10:44 AM
http://talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15108

-B

br928
05-08-2012, 03:53 PM
I have been using a Milwaukee holeshooter on my Bot for almost 10 years.

Depends on what you want to drill.

jTr
05-08-2012, 07:31 PM
Thanks Brady - that must be the thread I was thinking of.

Stan - That's what I had in mind. Just want to punch 8mm holes for pins hinges and slides using a carbide bit as describe in thread Brady referred to.
Do you use SB3 and control outputs to trigger, or simply manually flip a power switch?
Also, any special trick to getting position of this "foreign" part in harmony with offset the software is set to? I appreciate your input!

jeff

br928
05-09-2012, 10:18 AM
Jeff,

My drill is hardwired to a switch. It could easily be run from a relay output, like my spindle, but just never got around to it.

I modified two custom files that swap between the two Zs, as primary, and changes the offsets between them.

Are you using two Zs or one?

Pick a drill with the max speed for the material you will be drilling. I am drilling in steel so my drill speed is slow. Air drills are very fast.

jTr
05-09-2012, 03:21 PM
Jeff,

My drill is hardwired to a switch. It could easily be run from a relay output, like my spindle, but just never got around to it.

I modified two custom files that swap between the two Zs, as primary, and changes the offsets between them.

Are you using two Zs or one?

Pick a drill with the max speed for the material you will be drilling. I am drilling in steel so my drill speed is slow. Air drills are very fast.
Stan-
Just using a single Z. Looks like I need to crack open that manual so I can set an offset as you have. Trying to locate a drill with a straight body like that Milwaukee, but could make another work easily enough - looks like main idea is to have a uniform surface just behind chuck for ease of attachment. Thanks!
jeff

br928
05-09-2012, 07:01 PM
The straight body is a mod. Just get out the saw. Throw away the trigger.

The area behind the chuck for mounting is the key. These drills have an area for mounting a handle and perfect for attaching to the Z. I just machined a mounting bracket out of some PVC.

jTr
05-09-2012, 08:59 PM
HA! Really had me going, furiously searching the web for that handle-less drill!
Thanks for taking the time to clue me in Stan.
Perhaps an in line router speed control would be handy to tweak RPM's.

garyc
05-09-2012, 09:54 PM
You might want to look at one similar to this if drilling metal. Ready to mount: http://www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwaukee-4253-1-magnetic-drill-press-motor--600-rpm-with-1-2-in-chuck/miln4253-1,default,pd.html?start=2&cgid=milwaukee-magnetic-drilling-equipment

br928
05-10-2012, 12:55 AM
I don't think Jeff is drilling metal. I am the only one crazy enough to do that. (Actually the reason I bought the Bot was to make a CNC drill.)

Have to say it works well. I just now replaced the bearings in the modified drill. Over the years it has drilled 10s of thousands of holes in 10 ga. steel. New bearing was about $6.00. The maintenance cost on the Milwaukee is somewhat less the the Colombo spindle! I even changed the brushes, even though it didn't need them.

Jeff, just stay with a fixed speed drill. But pick the correct speed drill motor for you application. I don't know how well a speed controller would work on a drill. I don't think speed on a drill is as critical as a router.

The keyless chuck is a must.

jTr
05-10-2012, 10:11 AM
Stan, Just realized your 2nd Z is dedicated to drill. My idea was to piggy back on single Z as an air drill accessory does, but now wondering about managing multiple bits and height interference - seems a drill will need to have a "parked" and "active" position. Otherwise, logic suggests I'll need to remove router bit while drilling and vice-versa.
Any recomendations on mounting?

donchandler
05-10-2012, 10:28 PM
Jeff,
I have one of the Milwaukee mag drill motors that I don't use. It might have 10-12 hours of use on it.
I would sell it for a good price if you are interested.

br928
05-13-2012, 11:16 PM
Jeff,

With the single Z axis, you would either use the drill or router at any one time. You would just have to make a seperate toolpath for each.

garyc
05-14-2012, 07:24 AM
Jeff...
The current MTC tool system using the "TC Inch" post will handle up to 2 drills mounted on an A or Z axis for a total of 4 drills and 2 spindles. They will all be posted to the same file. Each sheet or material thickness will require a separate toolpath.

If processing sheetgoods thru eCabs and the SB Link, all sheets, even of varying thickness, will be processed in 1 file with load prompts for each sheet.

Jimmy Walker
06-21-2012, 10:33 PM
I purchased one of the Milwaukee mag drills and am trying to adapt it to a regular extension cord. What is the fourth red wire for, do I just ignore it?