About to buy Forklift -- Advice needed

[pkirby]

Hey guys,
I'm about to buy my first forklift and would appreciate any advice you might have because I've never owned one before. I'm mainly looking into buying one for between $3,000 and $5,000 from a private seller (I've never been a fan of retail :D). It needs to be capable of lifting pallets of plywood. Here are my main concerns:

1) Is there any brand / model to stay away from?
2) Is there any brand that's considered low cost to service when stuff breaks?
3) Is it feasible for me to fix things myself on it or is it highly specialized?

Thanks,
Paul

[fredtoo]

Get a green or orange tractor with a bucket and forklift attachment. Tote your plywood AND grade the back forty.....

[pkirby]

I was tempted to get a bobcat with forks on it but it wouldn't be able to manuever that well in my small shop:D

[Brady Watson]

Paul,
You're at the lower limit of what your money will buy in the $3-5k range. If you are buying from a private seller, don't dicker on price & see if he is willing to do service on it from time to time or as required. There are guys out there that scoop up used or broken lifts & fix/refirb them and flip them to make extra cash. These guys are usually better to deal with than a larger company that didn't go over the machine before you bought it or just ran it into the ground & put it up for sale. I found mine on CL.

Also consider how much it is going to cost you to get it to your shop. A regular auto roll-back tow truck is not suited for towing a 6,000 pound lift because it concentrates the weight in a small area...I got a rigging company to deliver it 50 miles for $165.




1) Is there any brand / model to stay away from?
2) Is there any brand that's considered low cost to service when stuff breaks?
3) Is it feasible for me to fix things myself on it or is it highly specialized?


1 - No.
2 - No.
3 - Yes - but this depends on how mechanically inclined you are. If you're comfortable changing out alternators, water pumps, radiators, engines and transmissions...then yes. If not...

I bought a used Toyota. It has a side shift on it - try to get one that has a side shifter as it makes it much easier to load stuff into racks. Mine runs on propane & I get 6-8hrs of run time out of it before I need to re-fill @$35 a pop. I would avoid the battery powered ones because the batteries are really expensive & heavy...The only way you are going to get the battery out is with another lift.

As with anything else...you have to use it year round. Start it up at least once every two weeks to charge up the battery (or trickle it) and to keep things from stagnating.

A decent tractor with a front loader and fork attachment is OK...but it can be dicey to maneuver in the shop. Plus, you'd be hard pressed to find a decent one for $3-5k.

-B

[pkirby]

Thanks Brady for the advice. I've done engine swaps, head gasket replacements, etc. so I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty to fix things. I'm basically looking for a forklift that is comparable to a 1970s Chevy 1/2 ton pickup. It won't be that pretty or fancy, but it will get the job done and if it breaks, it's cheap and easy to fix:)

[dlcw]

Another thing to be concerned with, will you floor support that much concentrated weight. The weight per square inch on a forklifts small tires is HUGE. I would not run one on my shop floor even though it is 5" concrete with embedded fiberglass and design for 5000 PSI weight. Plus I have radiant floor tubing in my floor.

Just some thoughts.

[pkirby]

That's a good point Don. I should be okay because I'm currently renting space in an industrial park and the neighbors beside me use forklifts.

[jerry_stanek]

You may be better off with a stand up unit.

[nat_wheatley]

You may want to check to see if parts are available for anything you're considering. I was in a pinch when I bought mine (a 1960(ish) Towmotor). It's built like a tank, but when the radiator failed, it was next to impossible to find a replacement.

I'm currently wrestling to remove the bolts that hold the water pump on, which I'm fairly certain haven't been touched in 50+/- years...

[pkirby]

What do you guys think of this forklift I found? It's a 1994 Toyota with a 5,000# capacity and trucker's mast (lift 8' high). It has 15,000 hours on it and is priced at $2,500

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[Ajcoholic]

I was tempted to get a bobcat with forks on it but it wouldn't be able to manuever that well in my small shop:D

I purchased a used Bobcat 943 (at the time, in the mid 90's when it was new it was the largest with a lifting capacity of 2400 lbs) for my shop, about a year and a bit ago.

I have lifted a lift of 35 sheets of 3/4" PC plywood, in one shot. I LOVE it. I use it to off load all my materials, and also to plow my large shop yard, and move around my shavings, etc.

I was thinking of a forklift, but up here, in the winter you really need one with large pneumatic tires. And then I would have had to buy a plow.

I say if you can buy a smaller bobcat, even with a 1200 or 1400 pound load rating your more versatile than a forklift.

AJC

[feinddj]

You may also go the way of making friends with your neighbors. My shop is on an industrial street and we barter/borrow for the fork and other things all the time.
David

[CNYDWW]

I purchased a used Bobcat 943 (at the time, in the mid 90's when it was new it was the largest with a lifting capacity of 2400 lbs) for my shop, about a year and a bit ago.

I have lifted a lift of 35 sheets of 3/4" PC plywood, in one shot. I LOVE it. I use it to off load all my materials, and also to plow my large shop yard, and move around my shavings, etc.

I was thinking of a forklift, but up here, in the winter you really need one with large pneumatic tires. And then I would have had to buy a plow.

I say if you can buy a smaller bobcat, even with a 1200 or 1400 pound load rating your more versatile than a forklift.

AJC

I hope he really doesn't need to plow snow in Georgia. No offense AJ just pointing that out :D

[bobmoore]

Fork lifts are not trucks or autos. They are entirely different from an operation and maintenance standpoint. To best avoid problems that can get real expensive hire a local forklift technician that you trust to go over it carefully for you. Will probably cost $150-$200. Then when you find one he likes have him service it while you are there so you can see him operate his check list. From there you can perform your own maintenance schedule.
Bob

[kubotaman]

Paul I know most people may disagree with me but another possibility is United Rentals. They sell all their equipment thru out the year. I have purchased two units from them. One a large chipper and another a 45 foot manlift. Both were in excellent condition and they did come with a guarantee. You can dicker with them if you want. Just look at their site and go to "used equipment" and see what is for sale. It at least will let you know what prices are and what is available if nothing else. Not all their equipment is run into the ground. I have come across some that had no more than 10 hours on them! Just a suggestion!!

[pkirby]

Daryl, you raise a good point, I'll check them out. I've been researching used forklifts all afternoon and I had read that buying rental forklifts were normally a good buy because they had much lower hours on them than forklifts that were used at a business.

Does anyone have any idea if 15,000 hours are to high for the forklift I posted earlier in this thread?

[Ajcoholic]

I hope he really doesn't need to plow snow in Georgia. No offense AJ just pointing that out :D

Is it hot down there?? I still have a little snow out in the back of my shop :)

Sorry... I guess I better bone up on my geography :D

AJC

[CNYDWW]

Is it hot down there?? I still have a little snow out in the back of my shop :)

Sorry... I guess I better bone up on my geography :D

AJC

I'm in central NY and i have no snow at the moment and it was a very odd year with very very little snow as it was.

Where he is, if they see 1/2" of snow on the ground they shut the roads down for a week. (exaggeration, usually a day) Heh.

[donchandler]

I have a old Toyota 3000# forklift. It will lift 12 ft. It does not have the side shift, but I wish it did. I would recommend a pneumatic tire one over a hard tire one. If you go outside, the hard tires are pretty useless. Power steering and automatic transmission are a must have option in a small shop. It was well used when I bought it. I put a rebuilt engine in it and have never touched it since. I have used it for about 12 years. The only thing I have ever had to do was a master cylinder in all of the years. It does not leak oil or water. Great machine. We couldn't operate without it. I also made a set of 8 ft long fork extensions, that slip over the forks, from some 6" channel iron. These are nearly a necessity when unloading a 4x8 pallet off of a closed freight truck. Sometimes a full pallet with the extensions on are all the old girl wants to lift, but never a problem.

[pkirby]

Don,
Thanks for the help. I'm hoping Toyota forklifts have the same kind of reputation that they're cars do, and that seems to be true from your experience:) I think I'm going to take a ride tomorrow to check out this old Toyota I found.

I think I'm catching "Forklift Fever"

Last week I ended up with "Table Saw Fever" to rip down a lot of 2" wide strips and I ended up getting a Restored Powermatic 66 Table Saw with a huge 72" wide cast iron top. It barely fits in my shop:eek:

Come to think of it a few months ago I got "CNC Fever" on a Saturday afternoon and then drove Sunday morning from Georgia to Minnesota to pick up an old 4x8 PRT.

Now that I really think about it, I'm too easily excited and very impatient. Dangerous combo, but I'll chalk that up to immaturity since I'm only 26 years old :D

[gundog]

Hi Paul,
When I was a young guy I was a forklift mechanic now days they call them techs. I worked on Clark & Toyota Forklifts a Clark is a much better lift but they cost more $$ I have worked on almost all of the brands but it was almost 30 years ago.

A couple safety notes never jack up a lift truck buy the rear counter weight they just hang on the back and if the bolt is missing it may fall off when you try and jack it up by the counter weight. Jacking up a forklift is not easy you must slowly jack each side up a little at a time they are narrow and easy to tip over. I like like propane over gas it never goes bad and it is easy to work on.

Check your wear items. 15000 hours seems like a lot we changed oil every 200 hours and did a major service every 1000 hours.

Mike

[pkirby]

Well...I finally got a forklift over the weekend. It's a LP 1994 Nissan Optimum 50 with 9,000 hours on it, 3 stage mast, and side shift. Not the prettiest thing but it was only $2,000:) Does anyone know of a good website or resource for forklifts in which I can educate myself about doing maintenance on it?

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[cabnet636]

mine looks like that and runs great !!

[Brady Watson]

It wouldn't take much to slap some fresh paint on it to spiff it up.

-B

[pkirby]

I plan on painting it in the winter time since that is generally my slowest season, but I'm about to do a mechanical overhaul/tuneup.

[myxpykalix]

i think a nice coat of "shopbot blue" would look real nice!;)
Maybe some flames and some pearl with metal flake...maybe some custom rims with spinners...I guess i'm watching to many episodes of American Chopper!

[pkirby]

Jack, I couldn't resist posting this pic after your comment:D This is a flame paint job I did myself on my truck in college. It took over 12 hours just to mask off the flames with tape (also take notice of the 12" custom suspension I made so I could fit 39" tires on the tacoma):eek: Unfortunately, those days of playing with trucks are over until I get this business built up.

15368

[harryball]

Looks great! congrats.

/RB

[myxpykalix]

Yeah that is cool, although your "younger days" were not as long ago, as for me or some of the other "old farts" on here I still recall working on old '55 & '57 Chevy's and other cars fixing them up, giving them a "Earl Sheib" paint job and having a blast....ahhh, those were the days:rolleyes:

[larry_r]

I bought an electric (battery) fork lift, as I was concerned about the exhaust from the propane units in an enclosed area.

[steve_g]

The propane units are safe for Interior use... Unless of course your building is so tight that you consume all the oxygen.

SG

[pkirby]

So I've been playing with the forklift for a while now and I'm noticing a couple of problems and was hoping some of you might have some insight.

Problem 1: When I first crank it cold, I have to keep my foot on the throttle for about 5 minutes to keep it going, otherwise it stalls out. After that it can maintain idle without stalling.

Problem 2: Once it is warmed up, I can move in forward and reverse at idle speed (no foot on throttle) with no problems, but when I start to turn, it stalls out (I believe from the extra energy required to pump the hydraulics for the steering gear).

Any ideas on what could be the culprit?

Thanks

[myxpykalix]

for problem 1...get yourself a brick:rolleyes:

[bleeth]

Time for a tune-up. You should check that your air filter and oil is clean and plugs are in good shape and gapped correctly. Whether the engine runs on propane or gas this is universal. You bought this very inexpensively. Generally in metro areas right now the going price for an older but decent lift is 3500 to 5k. A professional service call for a tune up should max at a couple hundred unless there are bigger issues.

[Brady Watson]

You should have a clutch pedal on it, which is what you'd use to bring the engine up to speed so that you can operate the hydraulics (which includes steering) without stalling out the motor. Just because it runs on propane, doesn't mean that it doesn't have to be warmed up a bit before you can really use it. You should also 'warm up your hydraulics' because the oil is thick when cold and you should move everything up & down, side to side etc before you plan on doing any lifting. Mine runs cold for about 5 min too & needs some pedal to keep it running. I just use the clutch pedal to keep the revs up and regulate it as needed.

In terms of the tune up - if it ain't broke don't fix it. If you can start it and it runs, just use it. If you want to crawl in there and change plugs, wires, cap & rotor, then do it. There isn't anything else, aside from fast idle, that you would be able to 'tune' or adjust, outside of filters and fluids. I would leave it alone...The road to hell ain't paved with asphalt...

-B

[bleeth]

Beg to differ buddy-If you have to keep your gas pedal depressed after the motor starts on your car to keep the engine running it needs a bit of work. If you have your lift in neutral and after it starts you need to depress the clutch to keep it running it needs a bit of work. Probably not much, but running a lift that takes 5 minutes to warm up or stalls without you helping to keep it going can be as dangerous as running a stick shift in San Francisco with a bad clutch and irritating as well. Paul is in Atlanta-Not Jersey-It doesn't get as cold but you still shouldn't have to do anything but start it and let it idle a few minutes at most.
One further note on stalling when turning the wheel. You should not turn the wheel all the way hard right or left on a lift without expecting to give it a little extra fuel to move, but it shouldn't stall.
Paul-you probably didn't pay that much attention to it when you were in my shop but I bought my lift 5 yrs ago for 5k and had nothing but a checkup by a qualified mechanic after I bought it for service until recently. Having your new lift in proper tune as soon as you can should mean that you will also get some very good service out of it with little more dollars spent for a while. Having the hydaulics checked now beats heck out of a burst line when you don't expect it (which is whenever it happens).
A question: Does your lift move when in gear and the hand brake is on? If so you need brake work. This one is an absolute must if needed.
Like all mechanics, some forklift guys are straight up and some aren't. If you are comfortable doing all your car work then the difference in the drive train for your lift isn't much. Hydaulics are a different story. Look for wet spots and'or overnight drips. You usually will get a signal like that if your lines are going bad. The more weather variance you have the more often lines need to be redone. It still is a bunch of years between this service. The problem is that a lot of owners take much less care of their lifts than their cars.

[pkirby]

Thanks Dave and Brady for the responses. To answer Dave's question, yes the hand brake will hold it in place even if it is in gear.

My main concern is with it stalling when I make a turn. I don't want to have to give it throttle when I'm making a really tight turn in my narrow shop. I'll try moving the hydraulics around to help warm up the fluid to see if that helps with the steering. My only other thought was that not enough LP was getting into the engine (either blocked line or problem with mixing valve). I plan on doing the maintenance myself, I'm just not very familiar with the way LP is introduced into the engine (I believe it's called the mixing valve). I've tried to find info about it online, but haven't had much luck.

One more question:o Is it okay to leave a pallet of plywood on the lift (off the floor) for extended periods of time? (I would like to use it to help feed the bot)

[gundog]

I would give it a good tuneup plugs wires & such get your hands on an LP low pressure gauge check pressure on the low pressure side of the regulator it should have 10# if more or less you need to rebuild or replace the regulator.

Rebuilding the Regulator or throttle body is very simple it is just a matter of changing the rubber diaphragms and gaskets. LP is easy to work on just make sure you have no leaks get a soap bottle and check all your connections.

Mike

[steve_g]

Paul

It's fine to leave the lift in an elevated position for extended periods of time. HOWEVER older lifts can tend to leak past the hydraulic valves allowing the load to slowly sink. Never leave a load where settling can cause harm or damage! If the leakage is occurring in the tilt valve, the load could be slowly allowed to settle forward until the load is dumped. Also... never allow yourself or others to be in a situation where a sudden burst hydraulic line could trap you or an appendage under a load! I would never leave a lift with a load elevated unattended, ESPECIALLY if children could be present. The hydraulic valves can still unload their pressure without the lift running... A child playing on a lift and pushing on a lever could drop the load very rapidly.

Seen it all
Steve

[pkirby]

Mike,
That's good advice. I'll try and find an LP gauge to check the pressure.

Steve,
I was planning on having the load in a spot to where if a leak occured and it came down, it wouldn't hurt anything. BUT, you raise a good point about the tilt leaking and dumping the load:eek: I never thought of that, so I'll take your advice and never leave it unattended.

Thanks guys. This forum has always been a great help to me for learning the woodworking business:)

[GlenP]

Does a lp lift truck have a choke on it to start when cold? If I remember right the one I used to run at a shop had one under seat area. If it has been sitting and not used much before you bought it perhaps just needs some hard work to get working right again. Also bugs and spiders love the get into propane and natural gas parts and perhaps they have blocked something up slightly. Is there a air filter on it? If so is it clean? I would suggest giving it some time and hard work and see if problem persists. You may end up chasing your tail, spending allot of time and money and never finding whats doing it. Done that been there! :(

Check out this site and see if it helps http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1968

[pkirby]

Glen,
I don't think it has a choke anywhere, but I did read the info on your link. It has some pretty good info for clearing out the propane lines and cleaning the mixer. I hope to work on it this weekend.