I've never used my Z-Zero Plate

[ironsides]

I've never used my Z-Zero Plate and I've read many posts on people having problems of one sort or another, so read on.

Using my experience from the CNC machinist trade here is my technique on the ShopBot:

I have a wireless Keyboard which allow me to bring it right next to the Spindle and the table top.
1. Using the Keyboard, move the spindle to a convenient place on the work.
2. Move down in Z until the bit is approximately .500 inch from the surface.
3. Place a .500 thick Brass or Alum block next to the bit.
4. Slowly increment the spindle up or down (in .001 or .002 increments) until the bit just touches the block, moving the block under and away from the bit until you feel a slight drag.
5. Using the VA command, tab down to the Z line and enter .500.

This process take only a few minutes and I never have to deal with the Z-Zero Plate, in fact, it is tucked away somewhere else out of sight and mind.

I use this same technique to set X and Y by entering in 1/2 the bit diameter, with the appropriate +/- sign, depending which side of the work you are on.

George Kelly

[Brady Watson]

The Zzero plate, when properly mic'd and setup in software is one of the hallmarks of ShopBot simplicity. Rarely does it not work properly - and if it does it is because your router (not spindle) brushes are worn and you didn't use the ground clip or your wiring is not up to par.

I'll take the Zzero plate over the slip paper under bit method any day of the week...but as with anything else, there's no wrong way if it works for YOU.

-B

[knight_toolworks]

or having a zero plate level with your top. I just hit c8 my machine jogs over zero's asks what thickness I type it in and off I go. always the same and no hassle.

[dana_swift]

I cant imagine not using the zzero plate as an owner. Then I can see the advantages of using a manual technique that takes a minute or more over an automatic one that takes seconds, especially if I were someones employee.

D

[phil_o]

I can't imagine how I would get along on most of my work without using the Z-Zero plate. On 3D work I usually start out with a roughing cut followed by a finishing cut and often a 3rd finishing cut with a smaller bit for fine detail on a portion of the work. Then I add V-Carved letters. The bits start at .5, then, .125, then .062 and finally a 60 degree V bit. Teach bit has to be zeroed independently. They all have to referenced from the same zero to get the results I need.

[ironsides]

OK, I have read all of the comments above, but do not apologize for my continued non use of the ZZero plate....

However late last week I ran into a situation where I needed reach clear to the back side of my 48 X 48 inch table to set Z, because of the configuration of the tree slab I was carving on, so I decided to use the ZZero Plate.

I watched the Video on how to use the thing and then commenced to do as the Video instructed. The first thing that I found out was that the ZZero Plate cable was cleanly cut into two cables behind the SB. I think I must have run over it with the Gantry not too long after I assembled the SB.

After splicing the three wires back together, then everything worked as shown on the video with one exception. Part of the routine before the Spindle moves down in Z, the machine constantly moved to a new X and Y position of 4 X 4 or 5 X 5, I cant remember now and am away from the shop.

So...
The question is how do I tell the ZZero routine NOT to move X and Y and just set Z?

George D Kelly

[MogulTx]

TYhere is a set up that you can go through in the SB3 program, where YOU determine where it will go every time to zero. 5,5 is the default. Just do the set up routine in SB3 and when the option regarding place to zero comes up, select the spot that serves your purpose. (and 5,5 is pretty convenient most of the time- but I have changed mine a NUMBER of times to accomodate a specific job).

Happy Botting.

MGM

[MogulTx]

(Sorry. I may not have given you enough to go on.)

Look under "Tools" in teh tool bar, then look down at "Set Up" under that. Follow the "Set Up" questions. You will find it a couple steps in. Go through the "wizard and go back to your work...

[paul_z]

Try the C2 command. It does the z zero but does not move in x or y.

Paul Z

[jerry_stanek]

Try the C2 command. It does the z zero but does not move in x or y.

Paul Z

In the set up under the tools you should insert no to x and no to y when it asks for a location to zero other wise it will go to 5 5 or 0 0

[backyard_cnc]

While I certainly use Georges method regularly on my milling machine set-ups, I find the Z zero plate to be excellent on the Shopbot and certainly works well enough that I wouldn't do it any other way. I even have a X-Y zero plate although that get used very seldom as generally I will machine a temporary fixture in place on the tabletop and then I know I have a precise origin and square corner to work from. I do this quite frequently and has never let me down.

gerald

[ironsides]

To: MGM, Paul and Jerry,

Thanks for the help.

I've been using the "Tools", "Setup" forever for establishing the X an Y proximity switch values, and never paid attention to what other options were available.

After unchecking the "always use box" everything works fine for the ZZero routine.

Thanks for your valuable help.

George

[ironsides]

While I certainly use Georges method regularly on my milling machine set-ups, I find the Z zero plate to be excellent on the Shopbot and certainly works well enough that I wouldn't do it any other way. I even have a X-Y zero plate although that get used very seldom as generally I will machine a temporary fixture in place on the tabletop and then I know I have a precise origin and square corner to work from. I do this quite frequently and has never let me down.

gerald

Gerald,
Thanks for the comment. Yes the ZZero plate routine will work well in most cases.

Sometime the ZZero plate is too big for the small work areas I sometimes have and therefore the feeler gage technique is the only way to get a good Z-Zero set.

George