butcher block for counter top?

[myxpykalix]

I have someone who wants to trade me this butcherblock countertop that was previously used for a bar and i wanted to use it for the kitchen countertop and would cut the sinkholes on the bot and use it.

I know we previously talked about using regular wood and your concensus was it was more problems then it was worth but i thought this might be a bit different since it is probably already sealed. It is supposed to be solid wood not some pressed wood laminated veneered thing.:confused:

[kevin]

Jack
It looks good to use thin cuts like that are perfect for a counter top.
You can use 2 part epoxy I've used it before

[myxpykalix]

thanks kevin maybe you misunderstood. The butcherblock top in the pic is what i would use, i was not wanting to make one myself from scratch:eek:

As long as you don't think i would have any issues i might try it.:D

[kevin]

I know what you ment its a good top because of thin wood it won,t expand as much as that massive board you had which would have been a shame for you to use.

[myxpykalix]

oh yeah, and it weights a ton. That will probably be used for a coffee table or dining table.

[beacon14]

You will still have to be very careful, especially with the exposed end grain at the sink opening. Even though the wood is sealed, natural wood movement will over time have a tendency to create hairline cracks in the finish, allowing moisture in, especially where water is allowed to sit on the counter, say, near the sink perhaps? Also any scratches in the finish from normal use could compromise the seal.

If you have to or really want to use wood for the top this is a better choice than a single solid slab, but it's still a solid wood countertop with all the advantages and disadvantages.

[mzettl]

Ditto what David said. It is still wood. It doesn't matter that it is made up of thinner strips, it will still expand and contract across the grain. Even if all of the strips are quartersawn, which I doubt is the case anyway, the movement would be less, but it still occurs. Although an epoxy finish would help, it still does not eliminate the problem.

Of course, there is still the matter of it being in a rental property. In my mind, this is the biggest negative.

Sorry to be so negative, but you asked. ;)

Good luck with whatever you choose to do.

Matt

[wberminio]

Jack
All have legitimate concerns,that being said,I have used wooden tops for many years
Recently made a kitchen in which the home owners bought wood tops from Ikea,I was surprised.Not bad.
Every material has its + - .
The way I see it-you have the material-use it.Maple is durable.
It can be resanded and finished.The major issue is water collecting near the sink.
Will it start to split a bit/move a bit- yes wood is what it is.
That's why we love it and why we hate it!
THis for a rental property.A maple top will last longer than a mica top.
Refinish it once and awhile and smile!

[beacon14]

The biggest problems I have seen with butcher block tops used near sinks is that once moisture gets into cracks, open glue joints, or end grain around the sink cutout, the wood starts to discolor and turn black wherever the water works it's way in. That discoloration extends into the seams and glue joints and can't be sanded off. If you keep on top of it, keep the top sealed, don't allow moisture to accumulate on the surface, etc. a well-sealed top can provide a long service life. But if there are any defects in the glue-up and/or the finish, especially around the sink, the top will suffer.

So if you really want to do this, I would very carefully inspect the surface and all the glue joints, and repair or fill with epoxy any open glue joints or cracks. Then try to explain to the tenants that this is not your ordinary countertop, and that it will require a little more attention than a granite or laminate top. Also - provide them with a large cutting board or trivet and give them clear instructions not to use the top as a cutting board, and to never place hot pots or pans from the stove or oven directly on the top surface. Yes those marks can be sanded off but you don't want to have to do that.

If your tenants are reasonably responsible you will probably be OK.

[kevin]

http://www.woodessence.com/MirrorCoat-P145C41.aspx

This is the coating I'am talking about .It goes on so thick I,am using it for a bar

The idea behind butcher block with thin pieces of wood is that when one piece decied to move the other will stop it they won/t all try and move at the same time.Thats why there so stable I.ve never seen one warp.

They been proven over time

[beacon14]

one piece decied to move the other will stop it they won/t all try and move at the same time.

Well, yes and no. Maple is maple, and a piece so big will experience the same overall change in size with changes in moisture content, whether it's made up of one or two large planks or a hundred tiny strips. The biggest difference is that the large planks, unless you can somehow get them all quarter-sawn, will want to warp, as the combination of flat, rift, and quarter-sawn grain within each board moves differently and causes distortion. The butcher block, being made of all small pieces, has a more uniform overall grain structure, especially if the alternating strips are arranged properly (every other strip should have the "cup" upside down), so the overall movement is more uniform, and the top is more likely to stay flat while it shrinks and expands. Those small pieces are more likely to have straight, even grain than a large plank, which helps a lot as well.

The trade off is all the glue joints. Even though the movement is theoretically uniform, differences in grain density and orientation from piece to piece will cause localized stresses within the top, and it's not uncommon in my experience for at least some of the the glue joints in a glued-up butcher block to start to move or fail over time, even if it's over a long time. Careful workmanship and thoughtful wood selection can minimize this, but there are no guarantees, except that the wood is guaranteed to move.

[kubotaman]

I have experienced butcher block here up in Washington. I purchased a number of pieces in California and brought them to Washington. I stored them for maybe a month and when I looked at them most were cupped. After some thought and turning them over I had one that was approximately 1/2 inched cupped! I figured it was nothing more than a piece of firewood. I then thought of taking the skillsaw and cutting it about half way thru on the bottom side. I didn't cut the full length but stopped maybe 3 inches from each end. After all I had nothing to loose since this piece was nothing more than waste. I cut on a straight edge every 3 inches from end to end. After the second cut I felt the piece release the stress and then laid flat! It has been flat for about five years. It really worked and next time I will cut every piece before I install any more. Just some information maybe someone can use.

[myxpykalix]

This is exactly why I ask for advice here, you get a variety of opinions.....
And of course you know what they say about opinions don't you?

"Opinions are like A*holes, everyone has one and most of them stink":eek:

But not in this case (your opinion...not your A*hole):D

What i have gleaned so far is that i originally thought i would have one of those under the counter mounted sinks but that would leave too much open endgrain wood subject water penetration and other issues.
So i will go with a conventional sink and i think cover the cut edges with an epoxy and a good thick bead of silicone caulk under the lip of the sink to prevent water penetration to the endgrain.
I have found out that it is 1.5" thick which would allow me to do a cutout underneath of the base cabinet dimensions so as to let it sit into the cabinet somewhat to create that front lip like you see on formica top.