"How To" Videos, Creating Profiles For Two Rail Sweep

[shilala]

I've been wondering how to do this for a long time now, and finally forced myself to figure it out. It's a process that I'll use time and again in the future and I thought some guys might appreciate a couple videos so they can do the same.

The subject is a two-parter. Creating router profiles to work edges or do the work I'd do with a plunge router, and using these router profiles with a two-rail sweep to create faux raised panels.
I needed to be able to do this to customize panels in a couple desks I'm making and to make cabinet doors for my shop, that's what caused me to go down this road.

The first video deals with creating profiles, or router bit profiles if you want to call them that. "Router Profiles" meaning cross-sections of a router bit. They'll take the place of lots of router bits of different shapes and sizes and are super easy to create. They can be used to do edges of projects, panels, letters, whatever. You just need to be creative in your application.
This video is called "How To Create Router Profiles In Aspire (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vdtw0v68gAA)".

The second video shows how to use examples to router an edge and how to use the profiles you've created in a two-rail sweep to create faux raised panels. As I mentioned, furniture panels and cabinet doors are a couple places this would be a big help.
This video is called "How To Use Created Profiles In A Two Rail Sweep - Aspire (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TrZA7e9xSo)".

I understand that these videos are very basic for most of you guys. I apologize for that, they're not really aimed in your direction. Even so, maybe I do something differently than you have and you may pick up something that makes your job easier. You may also be able to make my job easier with your input, which would be fantastic.
I searched high and low for help with this and ultimately decided to figure it out for myself lest Brady make me read stuff. I'm not even finished with my last two books he tasked me with, so I can't chance any more homework right now. :D

I certainly hope someone gets some help from them. It'd be nice to give a little bit back after all I've taken from all of you here.
Thank You!!!

[jTr]

Hey Scott,
I see you are using Aspire to do this - looks like I've been assuming incorrectly thinking Partworks 3.5 was the same program with a different title. Hard to make out in video, but looks like Aspire has an additional pull-down menu in between "edit" and "toolpaths". Would love to be able to do this, but looks like I would need to buy a "Full" version or upgrade of the software from vectric to be able to make doors - correct?

jeff

[adrianm]

PartWorks = VCarve Pro
PartWorks 3D = Cut3D
Aspire = Aspire :)

This table shows what each does - http://www.vectric.com/WebSite/Vectric/software_comparision.htm

[Bob Eustace]

Very good post Scott and a million thanks for sharing and donating a big chunk of your time. Much appreciated. Getting your head around two rail sweeps is just about the hardest concept to get to grips with despite the Aspire training video. Real life videos with stuff ups teach you far more than text book perfect. Both these vids should go straight into the Shopbot training section together with the CRV's. One thing that would make them perfect would be to start with an actual photo of the finished job. I reckon those that have never made a cabinet door might not understand the lingo. Just my thoughts!

[shilala]

Thanks for the kind words, Bob. It really didn't take long to do the videos at all, and it was certainly my pleasure.
I watched Aspire training vids, too. Thing is, I never understood how a two-rail sweep works. I never got a "feel" for it until just recently. As I use it more, I'll understand it more, and be able to use it a lot more. So will you!!! :)
It's such a powerful tool that it boggles my mind as to how many ways I can use it. Of course, it's no help to me until I need it, but once I do, it'll be incredibly valuable.

I've never made a cabinet door in my life. I've done all the reading in my books, and I know how to do it by making raised panels, rails and stiles. Despite that, I don't know what the dug out area is called that we're creating. I'd call it a cove or reveal. The only way I'd find out that word is to ask one of the guys that makes cabinet doors out of mdf. Someone will tell us, I'm sure.

Hopefully, if someone watches the video and isn't sure about the lingo, they'll take a minute and google "how to make a cabinet door". I'm sure it'll return a million pages and videos to help get up to speed. I do that every single time I see something here that I've not heard of or don't understand, right down to goofy stuff like reading tech specs on mdf that I don't even use. I'm a firm believer that anything we learn gets us closer to doing something exceptional, with the side-effect of getting more educated. :)

[Bob Eustace]

Thanks Scott. For anyone else interested in panel doors this is a great link.

http://www.vectric.com/WebSite/Vectric/search.htm?cx=017000426619768585755%3Ajs7akfww-3g&cof=FORID%3A10%3BNB%3A1&.com.com.com.comie=UTF-8&q=cabinet+door&sa=Search

[myxpykalix]

Scott,
Anytime someone takes the time to do a tutorial for whatever, thats a good thing. I kind of skipped thru this so if you addressed this let me know, but you know that most router bit mfg's have dxf profiles available of their router bits right?

Why wouldn't you just create a toolpath with a router bit that could cut it faster then 3d carving it in your program?

Here is some panels i made with a combination of router bits some 5-6 years ago.

[shilala]

Yes, I knew that, Jack. I messed with router bit profile jpegs to make profiles, but I couldn't do exactly what I wanted, how I wanted, whenever I wanted.
There's a cutoff point where a router bit would just be easier, like if I was simply rounding off an edge. My bits have roller spacers on them, so I'd have to take my work to my router table, which makes more work. Plus I hate my router table. But to make raised panels like I want, this way will work WAY easier.
That's my personal instance, but you're right, for others a different path might make sense. The path of least resistance always makes the best sense. :)

The panels you did, gorgeous, my man!!!

[rb99]

I am wondering about toolpaths for your doors. Can you use a v bit and have it remove the bulk and then use a ball to finish?

[cabnet636]

If it is helpful here are the whiteside dxf profiles for the most poular MDF door bits

[myxpykalix]

My questions were more rhetorical rather then criticism, however brings up a good point about using a certain profile to hog out the bulk then using ballnose for details. Although i can see how that might cause more work in toolpath preparation.
All in all, good info and tutorial. :D

[shilala]

My questions were more rhetorical rather then criticism, however brings up a good point about using a certain profile to hog out the bulk then using ballnose for details. Although i can see how that might cause more work in toolpath preparation.
All in all, good info and tutorial. :D
I understood you, brother. I didn't think you were being critical, and I'd appreciate it if you were. You made a great point in there, and it made me think of that sliding cutoff point where we all can, and should, do different things according to the tools we have.
Odds are that your toolpaths are always going to be different than mine, or anyone else's, just because of the bits we have.
On that profile in my vid I'd use a 1/4, then 1/8 ballnose. Maybe even a 1/16 if it's worthwhile. More likely I'd test it out, watch what it does, then change the profile to work better with my bits, giving me a more resolute finished product.

It's funny that I don't mind making toolpaths at all. It's changing bits that I hate. I'm always willing to take more designing time to work around bit changes, and I'll go rework a design and the toolpaths without hesitation. I'll bet a lot of guys are just the opposite?

[shilala]

I am wondering about toolpaths for your doors. Can you use a v bit and have it remove the bulk and then use a ball to finish?
I have 1/2", 1/4", 1/8" and 1/16" ballnose bits, so I'd go that way. I'd never use my v bits for anything but v-bit work like 2D letters and such. They're too delicate, expensive, and require being very sharp to do a nice job.
I'd go with a 1/2" or 1/4" upcut endmill to do bulkwork if I didn't have the ballnoses.
That's my personal preference.
Which makes me realize that I should be using downcut endmills where I said upcut, and now I'm not sure what I use. That's how soggy my brain is. :D

[myxpykalix]

Let me give you some "constructive criticism" since I have worked in movies and television and understand pre and post production.

What i would do is make a bulletpoint list of the major parts of your toolpath or part production, and limit it to explaining the major reasons why you click here, click there, ect...what that does, but be concise.

I would limit your video to 4-5 minutes TOTAL. Longer then that peoples attention span tends to wander.
Then show us after or while it's cutting so we can see the results.

It's one thing to say...do this, this, and this...
but it's more effective if you say:
...do this, this, and this...and you get THIS!:eek:
like i said before...good work, keep it up:D

[shilala]

Let me give you some "constructive criticism" since I have worked in movies and television and understand pre and post production.

What i would do is make a bulletpoint list of the major parts of your toolpath or part production, and limit it to explaining the major reasons why you click here, click there, ect...what that does, but be concise.

I would limit your video to 4-5 minutes TOTAL. Longer then that peoples attention span tends to wander.
Then show us after or while it's cutting so we can see the results.

It's one thing to say...do this, this, and this...
but it's more effective if you say:
...do this, this, and this...and you get THIS!:eek:
like i said before...good work, keep it up:D
That's great input, Jack. I'd considered making notes, but really couldn't wrap my head around what I wanted to do. That's when I got the idea to set up the profiles and geometry ahead of time. I figured it would be much quicker.
I will DEFINITELY use your suggestions if I do anything like this in the future.
Thank You!!!