Squaring small parts

[JDGJr]

I'm going to start use a corner-finder process to allow placing smaller parts anywhere on my table, but I have no idea how to make sure they're square to the X-axis (for cutting details on the second side).

The majority of my cuts are thru-cuts, so my spoil board is always 'spoiled', and I don't have any permanent tracks on my table surface.

How do people align parts in an environment similar to mine?

thanks for any info,
John

[srwtlc]

Just one of many ways, anchor some scrap MDF or Plywood to your table where desired and cut some pockets to hold the blanks. That way they're perfectly aligned to the axes. To hold them in place, you could split the pocket pieces in half and use wedges to jam the blank in tight.

You could make a larger jig that would hold numerous blanks in place and that jig could be aligned by using the machine to make some alignment pin holes on your table that coincide with some in the jig. Again, wedges could be used or better yet, make it a vacuum jig and use a shop vacuum of some sort to apply vacuum to the underside.

You can go as simple as just making the file to cut all parts in one shot or you can make a master file that calls up one file to cut one and then position it for the next. You can make a system of offsets to go to any jig you want and then cut there. The newest software has 'Memorized location' buttons on the (K)eypad that could also be used to go to various jig locations.

Numerous other ways and I'm sure others will chime in with more, but that should get the juices flowing.

[jdervin]

I frequently take a scrap of something I passed through the table saw (often masonite, but it really doesn't matter) and press it against the aluminium extrusion. This makes a pretty accurate parallel edge to the X-axis, since that rides on the extrusion. I also love the side effect that since I'm chosing leftover material at random, it means I'm cutting at different places on the table, which spreads out the wear on the rails more evenly.

[myxpykalix]

I couldn't find the picture of my jig but here is one from Steve Knight(?) anyway it is similar to mine.
The idea is you have a 90 degree corner to put your material in.
Then i usually just align it to the corner of my table and clamp.

However if you wanted to take and put this jig about 2 feet down in the X and 6" over in the Y then all you need to do is run your bit down 2 feet in the X and 6" in the Y and butt your jig up to the side of the bit that you have lowered down to say.25 above the table surface.

Clamp or mark the top edges location. If your jig is say 12" long then run your carriage down 12" and butt the opposite end of the jig to the bit.

As long as you don't move the Y it will stay straight in a line parallel to your bit and the jig will be lined up with it.

[bleeth]

Lets say you wanted it 2" in from x and y.

Cut a couple strips of ply (1/2" works fine) long enough to support your piece full length in both directions and 2 1/8" wide and screw them down with the edges on zero and not touching each other. trim them to 2". You can either draw a couple 2" by whatever rectangles and cut them out or a couple vectors offset by the bit radius and just cut along vector or just do it manually with straightline commands and the bit offset by 1/2 the bit diameter. For example: If you are cutting a 48 " strip in x and using a 1/4" bit, move it to 2 1/8" in y and at table 0 in Z and just off the table in x and then enter mx 51 or such. Takes a few minutes but gives you a perfect registration. If you want to be way out on the table (like y 20) just screw the strip down 18" from the edge.

For very small parts or irregular parts cutting a mask jig works great.
If you are going to do this a lot it is worth making a jig like Jack shows. If you drill a couple dowel holes a little into your spoilboard your jig will always go back in the same place.

[srwtlc]

John,

You may find the information gained from the latest webinar to be quite timely for your question.

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17210

[JDGJr]

That is planned for this Wednesday. And, yes, very timely. I already emailed TJ and registered for the presentation.

[curtiss]

It is not too difficult to cut a shallow groove in the top about 14 inches long in both the x and y direction. Say with a 1/16 bit about .04 deep.

From there, you can lay in a 12" metal ruler and square the desired material fairly easily.

Cut in several locations if needed.

[JDGJr]

Wow, you guys have some great ideas! thank you.

[myxpykalix]

John...that is what you are paying your monthly dues for...access to the collective wisdom and expertise of all these Botters....

You are paying your dues right????:rolleyes::eek::D

WOO HOO...5800 posts