Using Aspire for Tiling

[jimmya]

I am looking for the tutorial on tiling. I have a 4’x8’ table and I have a job that is 25”x113” . What I would like to do is move the sheet about 2 feet to do the end of the sign. I watched the one on the disk and he said there was another tutorial to explain how to do this. I can’t find it on the disk or on line.
Thanks for Any help you might have

Jimmy

[bleeth]

Jimmy:
The key is accuracy in your registration points. If the x of your spoilboard is a good accurate zero and so is the Y then your job is pretty easy. I will tell you that if you are cutting any 3-d reliefs in the sign that have to be split it is near impossible to get perfect results. I have cut some shaped countertops that were longer than my table and they came out close to perfect but not quite. I've had a couple people tell me they were not able to get perfect alignment of reliefs. When I do a sign that is longer than the table I do my best to not "split" anything critical. So if, for example, I have a 4 foot inlay on the right side of a 10 foot sign I would cut it in one go after I have moved the sign down on the table. In other words, there is a very good chance that I wouldn't be cutting everything that is in the first 8 feet of the sign in the first positioning except that part that I actually had to. Depending on the overall design of the 10 foot sign example, it may make sense to overlap some of the cutting or have your tile registration points at the 5 foot mark.
Sorry-I have no idea where Aspire's tutorial may be. (I use Artcam)

[jimmya]

Thank you Dave!!
There is no 3D in the file, I've done this once before but, I thought if Aspire has a tutorial that I could watch it would make things easer.
Thanks Again for your Help
Jimmy

[gc3]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=LmlVYfkezyE

[jimmya]

Thanks Gene, I had that one on the disk. I want to move my sheet about 2 feet though the X. Please see attachment

17835

Thanks
Jimmy

[steve_g]

Jimmy... It's been awhile since I did the tiling with OK results. If I remember correctly (and I might not) your tiles have to be equal... not just a matter of moving another 2'.

SG

[myxpykalix]

I don't know about this pgm but like dave says its critical with registration.

if before you start your project you take a sharp pointed bit and have a starting point be 0 and score a line across the table.
Then another exactly 24" down, then another at 48" ect
then if you have enough waste material on the side of your sheet score a line say an inch long across at 0, 24, 48, ect then you can move it till the 2 lines meet?:confused:

[Bob Eustace]

Agree with Dave - registration is the key to success. We do round pieces macined on both sides needing near perfect re-alignment. All you do in your case is put four holes in the table - two on xy zero and two on the x extremity. Put same holes in the start of the board. We use plastic rod from electric fences as it slips in easy and doesnt bind. Tried the fence method with pencil lines. OK for simple signs.

I think that illusive video on Aspire 4 is hidden as the last item on one of the tutorials on something else. With 44 hours of video it is easy to forget.