Top Bearing Failure on a PC 7518

[mrgadget]

Does anyone have any suggestions/comments/tricks on replacing the top bearing on a PC 7518? I rebuilt this router motor with new bearings and brushes and may have gotten 30-40 minutes run time before the top bearing decided to fail. It appears to have gotten hot as it's bluish in color in places. I would prefer to fix this (again!!) as it would be way more economical than replacing at the moment.

[jimmya]

Try this site. I used it to rebuild my routers.

http://reproductionwoodworks.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-replace-bearings-in-porter-cable.html

Jimmy

[Brady Watson]

What tools did you use to install the top bearing? It is possible that you may have damaged the bearing when you were putting it in, unless you properly pressed it on. You can tweak a bearing even just a little, and it will fail because it no longer runs true - and it will overheat.

You should treat your router like it is an instrument, since it does have semi-precision bearings in it. Things have to be right in any high RPM motor, especially the bearings. You have to take care when pressing them in, making sure that they are FULLY supported, evenly. I cannot stress enough how bad it is to install these with a hammer...of any type.

Attached pic (courtesy of Toolmonger.com) shows how the bearing must be supported & what can happen if it isn't.

-B

[mrgadget]

Well, Brady, I hate to admit it, but that was my tool of choice at the moment even though I knew better. Didn't want to wait to take it to work and use the press there. Guess I will this time as that was sort of what I thought was the cause. Will order some more bearings today and install them (correctly this time with a press of course!) and see how it goes from there. I think I got the last ones from ereplacementparts.com or somewhere like that. Anybody have a preferred vendor for premium bearings? Dang, almost got my vacuum plenum cut this weekend.

[Brady Watson]

Jay - You know the deal - live & learn! ;)

You can still press them incorrectly...just make sure to press the inner & outer races together in unison.

-B

[mrgadget]

You've got it Brady!

Thanks for the link Jimmy!

[jerry_stanek]

We bought them from NAPA but most auto part stores will have them. Shopbot also sells them You just need to take the bearing with you. The numbers are top 6202 RS and the bottom 6005 RS. I think I paid about $5.00 a piece for them

[Brady Watson]

Good one, Jerry. Thanks for sharing it!

-B

[genek]

does anyone have any suggestions/comments/tricks on replacing the top bearing on a pc 7518? I rebuilt this router motor with new bearings and brushes and may have gotten 30-40 minutes run time before the top bearing decided to fail. It appears to have gotten hot as it's bluish in color in places. I would prefer to fix this (again!!) as it would be way more economical than replacing at the moment.
you may have not gotten the right type of bearing.. From the looks of it. That bearing needs to set in oil or grease all the time.

You need a high speed bearing that is self lubed and sealed.

If a bearing is open faced ( you can see the bearing retainers or bearings ) that bearing must be in oil or grease at all times.
If you can not see the bearings or the retainers, this is a pre lubed bearing..

This hold true 90% of the time.. Go to a bearing supply center that sale industrial grade bearing tell them you want a bearing that you do not have to lube tell them what you are doing with it.

Locally i go to bearings inc. I think they have stores all over.

Do not go to granger or places like that...

[cabnet636]

Mann tool in Columbia SC stocks these 803 252 7777

http://www.manntools.com/

[mrgadget]

Thanks for the replies guys. I did a quick search here and found the shielded bearing part #6202ZZE/C3 for the top and ordered that one off of Amazon for $11 and some change total. Seems that is the correct one for this router. We'll see in a few days.

Eugene - It is very possible that could be true for that bearing. From the looks of it, you're probably correct my friend!!

James- Thanks for the tip. Next time I'm over in Columbia visiting my sister I may go look them up.

[donek]

I always use sealed bearings on my routers. Shielded doesn't last as long and there's no debris actually striking the seal, just fine dust. Sealed will keep the dust out better.

A press should not be required when replacing this bearing. If you remove the little set screw (they call it a plug), the bearing will slip on and off very easily. PC charges $5 for that set screw, and I've never determined the correct thread pitch or diameter, so work it carefully. Don't over tighten the set screw either as that can cause premature wear on the bearing too.

I usually replace the lower bearing ( press is a good idea here) whenever I replace the top. No point in taking it apart again in a few weeks. I also find that my brushes are going at the same time the bearings are, so replace them at the same time.

[Brian Harnett]

This is an obvious question but you did loosen the shaft wedge screw right?
On the ones I have rebuilt the bearing slipped on with hand pressure then just tighten the screw to expand shaft.

[frankwilliams]

I was going to chime in about getting the C3 version of this bearing as it is intended for higher heat (will allow for more expansion), but I see that is what you got this time. Also good to see you got ones that are sealed (the open ones will die quickly from the dust that inevitably gets sucked into them in a shop) Good luck!

[mrgadget]

Brian - I did take the shaft wedge screw out. If I remember the bearing did remove from there fairly easy on this router also. Thanks for the reminder! Never hurts to have extra eyes looking at something.

Frank - I also thought that was the best way to go after doing a little reading on what others here have done.

Will try to follow up as soon as I can after replacing it to let you all know I'm up and running again. Hopefully it won't be too long. Thanks again.

Jay

[mrgadget]

Wanted to check back in and say I replaced the top bearing and am up and running again. It's running like a champ! Here's the bearing numbers for future reference for others:
Top bearing: 6202ZZE/C3
Bottom bearing: 6005ZZE/C3

These are SHIELDED and not sealed bearings.