help with relief chipout

[angelosart]

I am making a relief sign out of Basswood and I'm not only getting the "fuzzies" but also some terrible looking cuts. See photos below
Here are my parameters....

1/8" ball nose
RPMs 10,000
Feed 1.67/sec
Plunge 1/sec
Stepover 7%
Basswood

Ugh. The linear cut in the photos below is supposed to be cone shaped. I am new the machine and trying out feeds and speeds. Any thoughts and suggestions?

18268

18267

18269

Angelo

[steve_g]

Angelo...
I've never routed Basswood but the photos look familiar...

First, this looks like a classic call for a v-bit rather than a ball nose bit. I'm curious why you went with the ball nose.

Second, the photos would suggest that your issues are more than just "fuzzies". It looks like you have "tear out" possibly caused by too fast a cutting speed (X/Y) or a dull bit, or too deep a step down.

Third, the fuzzies can be controlled by sealing the surface with shellac or lacquer... If that doesn't work into your finishing technique, you might try routing through a paint mask.

You didn't say what your "step down" parameter is but it should be quite shallow in this instance.

If it were my project, I would go with a CMT "laser" point V-bit, V-carve the project and then come back and re-carve about .005" deeper to clean up the cuts.

SG

[garyb]

Angelo
Looking at your image you haven't told the whole story.
to me it looks like you used a large endmill to area clear and ran it up on the same vector as your cone shape round over boarder causing it to chip out

Bass wood is notorious for fuzzing, a sharp tool and the correct toolpath strategy is essential.
You don't say what 1/8 ball nose tool you used or the other tools you used and in what order!!

Steve, he's cutting ISO letters and a round over cone shape boarder so I disagree that v-bit should be used.
Sealing the surface with shellac is a great way to control fuzz but only surface fuzz along a cut edge, does no good if cutting a relief where the finish is below the surface.

Ideally basswood would not be my choice of material for this job
Gary

[gc3]

run a tapered .0625 ballnose cross grain forget the area clearance bit this is not a deep file...let the machine do it's thing

[angelosart]

Thanks for the feedback. Very helpful. I used a .5 upcut to rough it out and 1/8" ballnose ar a depth of .125 and plunge of 1/sec. The bits are about a month old. The shellac makes a lot of sense. I'm going to go over it again with 1/16 bn and just take off a .1/32

[angelosart]

Gary
You're right, my .5 endmill ran up on the same vector but since the round over border went in 2 directions (x and y) I didn't think I had any other alternative? Can you suggest a different toolpath? I was experimenting with the basswood, were you thinking more along the lines of a hardwood or mdf product instead?

Thanks
Angelo

[Bob Eustace]

Suggest you have a look at mahogony, myrtle or swietinia. These all machine beautifully. After a year or so you will get to know which timbers work. I simply forget pine for 3D work! Interestingly though baltic pine is an absolute pleasure to use and smells really nice. Dont get disheartened - you will soon climb over the giant learning hill!

[angelosart]

Bob
Thanks for the suggestions. Good to know. I love mahogany but trying to restrain myself and practice on cheaper woods and scraps I have like oine and basswood.

Angelo

[myxpykalix]

One thing i would do is take a piece of 220 grit sandpaper to your cuts to see if it is just sawdust hanging onto the cut or if it is cutting that jaggedly. I get what i see there on my cuts sometimes depending on the material but i just take a piece of sandpaper and knock them off.

My experience with basswood is that it is real "stringy" especially if it isn't dried wood.

If you can't afford other species, and it is good to practice on scrap, go get you some pieces of oak firewood and cut them up and practice on. You'd be surprised at what beautiful designs sometimes is hiding in wood people consider trash.:D

[angelosart]

Working with 3.25router @ 10,000rpms for 3D relief wood with 1/16"bn.... any experience with feeds and speeds?

[gc3]

sapele...tapered .0625 bit 3.5ips x/y 3.5ips z

[angelosart]

Gene
What RPMs? Do you have a router or spindle?

Thanks
Angelo

[gc3]

router 13k rpm

[angelosart]

Thanks Gene

[bobmoore]

Angelo; These guys have champagne taste in wood species. If you want wood to practice on but are on a budget try maple or ash if you want more grain to show. Both are excellent carving species with little chip-out and they also finish nicely. They are not durable outdoors but you have a ways to go before you will be hanging your masterpieces outside in my opinion. Once you have more experience you can graduate to the more exotic species.
Bob

[ssflyer]

My favorite practice pieces when I started were poplar - dirt cheap, and gave me a good idea of what I could do...