Plexi 3D

[Xray]

First a disclaimer, am not a Botter, but have always liked this forum, and don't discount the possibility of owning a Bot sometime down the road.
That said, these can just as well be made with a Bot. Both are vectorart files that have been carved -3D, substracted mode. Roughing I use a .25 endmill, finish a .05 tapered ball nose, commonly used for 3D in wood.

1st one is a Jesus bust done in 3/8" plexi, not much room for depth with 3/8", but as you can see, it is possible. Used just about all the thickness I had available, came out very nice. Lettering was then etched with a diamond drag bit, and set in a custom base with a RGB strip.
2nd was done in 1" thick plexi, plenty of room for depth with 1", probably went near .75" deep. Came out very nice, is about 12x8", sure to appeal to firearm enthusiasts.
I have tried these in .5" plexi as well, did a very nice praying hands design, and I think .5 is ideal for these.

The normal caveats when routing plexi apply to these, slow RPM's as possible and high feed rates to avoid any melting issues. These are fun to make, open up new areas of creativity, and sell pretty well, certainly attract attention wherever they are.

[jTr]

Doug - Very cool stuff!
Thanks for sharing - We appreciate the inspiration and description of methods you used.

jeff

[genek]

Very nice work... did you make the base.

[Xray]

Jeff - Yep, no matter what machine is used we share at least 90% in common with methods, tooling, software, procedures ect. I have learned just browsing around here.

Eugene, yes I make my bases out of mdf with an appropriate sized slot, also have the slot stepped on the ends to keep it from sitting right on the light strip. The gun was pictured before I even made a correct base for it, I just set it over the slot of another base for the pic, in fact it is the 3/8 base for the Jesus bust, you can see it will no where near fit in that slot.

[Xray]

A few more recent works

[myxpykalix]

looks like you got that mastered:eek::D

[scottp55]

Love the last three. keep posting please. Scott

[genek]

I'm envious.. supper nice.. I will have to try that one of these days.

I do see something wrong with it...

You can send one to Jack and the other two to me and we will solve the problem... ( be in our collections) just joking supper nice.

[Xray]

Thanks guys, I'll post some more in the coming days including an Einstein, eagle and a skull, they are done but no bases yet.
Most of these you probably recognize as vector art 3d, except the horse, I forgot where I got that one from, but I'm hoping to be making my own designs soon, working on a Marylin Monroe should be pretty sweet.
I've also been experimenting on some of my many rejects flame polishing the designs with MAP gas to burn away the white haze, the 3d designs are then clear and really look like they are floating in the glass. MAP is so hot though its very easy to burn and ruin, so I'm treading carefully here.

I have some of these offered for sale at a buddies laser engraving booth at a flea market, the pics I took of the last 3 were from there. Big old black guy and super cool, talented with the laser too, sometimes he does 2d etches on the plexiglass with the laser and I bring in the base ,,, He said of the German Shepard "Damn, that thing looks so real I can smell its breath"

[myxpykalix]

there is something pleasing about "dogbreath". I love the german shepard.:D

[Xray]

Here is my latest, a V3D file made as a memorial for a grieving family, came out very nice.
Carved out of .5 plexi using a .125 tapered ball nose bit, took about 1.5 hours to cut.

[genek]

Dough I love your work. Just sent you a pm

[Xray]

Another design, including an acrylic base

[dlcw]

Doug,

Absolutely beautiful!!!

This is something that I would like to start offering to some of my wholesale customers.

Where do you get your LED strips? Are they difficult to cut to different lengths and still be able to easily hook them up?

Thanks!

[Xray]

I get strips here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121058740608?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Asia, so delivery take a week or 2, but good price and great quality, all LED strips are not created equal and these are the best I have found,,, But you are looking for non waterproof 5050 RGB LED's, a myriad of sources for them. These strips can be cut every 3 LED's, so you can have a strip as short at 3 LED's [about 1"] or as many as 200, and anywhere in between in multiples of 3 and the hookup is the same. [This one took 9 for example].

This by the way took 4 hours to cut, so I don't know about wholesale, plus the thick plexi is expensive. But if you can find a way to reduce costs and time, might be feasible. [I do have some bargain thick plexi for sale on another thread but am almost out]
Here is another all acrylic I did recently a little on the naughty side

[dcruze]

When you are doing the 3d carvings and using Vector Art, clipart, how are you reversing the models so they cut down into the acrylic instead of being raised.

[Xray]

Easy - In model properties the default is "combine" ... Chose "subtract" instead, and there you have it. You have to be careful with depth, you want it deep as can be but yet obviously don't want to punch through the other side.
Alot depends on the thickness you use, in the 1st examples many were done with plexi 1" or more, there you have margin for error and no chance to punch through. On the other end, I have done some in 3/8", which is possible but just barely, really easy to punch through. I've found 1/2" ideal, and thats what the last 2 are.

[dcruze]

Thanks, I will try it.

[Xray]

Another all acrylic Jesus bust, 8x10" in .5 plexi, base is 1.25

[myxpykalix]

Another cool one Doug...Do you still have any more plexi for sale? I tried to send you some money via paypal but had a problem and was tired and just click away.
Have you ever tried to do any carving in plexi of litho files of pictures? I know you can take 3d files and make your pictures in plexi, i just wondered if you could do that with a photo?:confused:

[Xray]

I still have some surplus plexi but getting down to odd sizes, don't have nay more complete 12x12's" but close and enough to fill up a priority box.
Have never tried lithos thats on my todo list, I have had photo vcarve for over a year and have barely messed with it, the long cut times I am hearing about is putting me off I think.

[myxpykalix]

Doug,
I think this is why i backed out of the paypal transaction previously. It is telling me that expoxy1@comcast.net is not registered with them and i sent you an email to that address and it bounced.
This was the address you sent me in the PM. Send me correct info so i can get this to you. :confused:

[Xray]

epoxy1 rather than expoxy

[myxpykalix]

what are the sizes you have left? and thicknesses?

[Xray]

I updated the plexi sales thread, see post #12

[myxpykalix]

hi doug,
consider me :confused: I looked at #12 in this thread and that wasn't it and looked for a thread in the for sale section and came up :confused: because i didn't find anything.....
And as soon as you post a link i'm going to go :rolleyes:...DOH!
thanks

[burchbot]

I think it is this one Jack. http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19160&page=2
Dan

[Xray]

A couple more recently done, gun is 1" plexi bike .5"

[HelicopterJohn]

Hi Doug,

Beautiful Work!!!!! Many thanks for sharing your creations.

I make some of these but not in the real 3D like your examples.

I drill a couple of holes near the bottom and utilize a couple pieces of 1/2" 6061T6 Aluminum rods with one end drilled and tapped to accept a 10/32 round head button screw to support it like a picture frame. I bead blast the aluminum rods to give them a nice finish. I have a friend in California that makes the LED Strips that do a good job in hiding the LED's. I have also done some of them with mirrored Plexiglas. These work better when you add a clock as it hides the clock mechanism and only the numbers and associated artwork show. With my mounting system you can either sit them on the table like a standard picture or flip the mounting system upside down and hang them from chains from the ceiling or wall mount them. You can even apply paint to the reverse side of the mirrored plexiglas to add color when the sign is not lit. It still lights up but not as effective.

Just thought I would share. I have had a lot of fun experimenting with LED's. It is amazing how far those LED's will transmit light. I recently made one (not 3D) that was 24 inches tall and 36 inches wide and the lighting worked quite well.


John

[Xray]

Thanks, I do alot of 2D etching, mirrored and clear.
Your method looks pretty slick, also nice concept of a small clock as an accent to a larger sign. Lately I've been doing round clocks instead of square in a base, there is really no limit except the imagination.

[HelicopterJohn]

Hi Doug,

Yes, this type of signage really gets the creative juices flowing.

Another thing my friend in the Sign business does is cut graphics on his computer and then cuts the designs on his plotter, then weeds out the desired areas and do a light sand blast to those areas. You can even combine engraving and sand blasting on the same sign. Like you say "No Limit Except The Imagination".

John

[POPS 64]

Doug , very nice work I'am dieing to try it. I only old pw and pw 3[d , pw is like 2.1 so way back do you think I would be able to try basic things like clipart and phraaes ? My 3-d doesn't offer the options you need to make the changes you talked about just curious . thank you Jeff

[Xray]

No, I don't think you can do any 3d work in plexi without the ability to subtract [create a negative model]. I have but don't use the other programs so I don't know if there is a workaround, I doubt it.
You could of course do any 2d you'd like, just have to mirror [flip horizontally] any text, or anything else that doesn't look right backwards.

[Brady Watson]

No, I don't think you can do any 3d work in plexi without the ability to subtract...

Sure you can. You can create a positive relief just like any other material, with the caveat that you either have to pocket down around the relief to lower the material, or machine an applique - which can be done seamlessly if you have good MC flowing skills. ;)

-B

[Xray]

I never doubted a positive relief could be made in plexi if so desired, hard to see the point though. The goal for me is to get the object to look like it is floating within the plexiglass, something which a + relief would not do.
[Can't imagine that "pocketing down around the relief to lower the material" would look very good in plexi]. I'd rather just do a cutout of the object, but then you'd have to question why you did it in plexi in the first place instead of wood. What you describe does not take any advantage of plexis main selling point - Transparency.

[frank]

For a workaround to cut a negative model, in the control software try changing the Z proportion value in the fill-in sheet from 1 to -1. You would then have to move your Zzero point to ensure the cutting plane remains in the material but I think it should work. Changing the Zzero is especially important if you zero to the table otherwise you will cut the model into the table.

[khaos]

For a workaround to cut a negative model, in the control software try changing the Z proportion value in the fill-in sheet from 1 to -1. You would then have to move your Zzero point to ensure the cutting plane remains in the material but I think it should work. Changing the Zzero is especially important if you zero to the table otherwise you will cut the model into the table.

Thanks Frank. That is a great tip. Saves me a round trip through aspire!!

[Xray]

Made this one today, very thick plexi [1.25"] and 14x8.
Not perfect but close, together with the plexi base I got about 3 hours into it, not bad for something this large and detailed.

[scottp55]

Nice Doug !! You're really Mastering this Niche :)

[POPS 64]

Another great looking product Doug . Jeff :D

[Xray]

and some 2D, a very detailed Mayan calendar using a diamond drag bit.
10x10" .25 plexi, took almost 3 hours but incredibly detailed.

[Xray]

Have been getting more into lithos lately, these 2 fem lithos are about 8x10" and done in .25 corian.
Haven't made light boxes for them yet, just holding them up to a shop light and snapping a pic with cell phone.

[Davo]

how long did those lithos take?

any tips on feeds/speed/bits?

[Xray]

These took around 2.5/3 hrs, not bad for detailed 8x10's.
I use a tapered 1/16 ballnose, nothing special on feeds/speeds. Like with 3D with all the Z movement it will only go so fast no matter what speed you use, best to use max. RPM probably 12,000.

Most important detail for lithos is accurate setting of Z zero. You want as thin a skin as possible in the lightest areas. Don't go deep enough and the whole thing will look too dark, go too deep you punch through the other side and ruin the project. These were .3 thick so I set max cutting depth to .25, so very little margin for error. I set a piece of paper on the corain and lower the bit until it touches and the paper won't slide. I then bump it up a hair to be on the safe side, so long as your table is level you will get the max depth possible with this method.
If you find you have not cut down far enough, all is not lost. You can sand them from the back to get the level down ,,, But if you go to far it is scrap, no cure that I know of.

[mdebruce]

IMG 0467 really impresses me. It does not seem possible to achieve that level of accurate detail! The only thing slightly "off" is her eyes. Of course the "Mayan" thing is super crisp and Jesus on the cross!!!
Ok everything looks great. I am buying a SB Desktop to do this kind of work but did not think it would do this...Great job and thanks for the inspiration.

[pwbell]

Where did you get the led lights and how did you hook them up?
Thanks for answering and the examples look really great!

[Xray]

Hi bruce,and thanks.
To be accurate I don't own a shopbot I am a "friend of the forum" who owns another brand, here to share and gain knowledge. But there is no reason why a deskbot could not create identical works, it could and does. Success doing lithos & plexi edge lit can be tricky no matter what machine you have but there is alot of helpful info here and at the vectric forum to get you on your way.

and PW, speaking of vectric forum check this thread for all sorts of sources, examples and tips
http://forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php?t=17065

[Xray]

I have posted these guns before I think, what sets this one apart is its done in 3/8 plexi.
I have tried it before and ended up ruining more than I created successfully, not much margin for error using 3/8 for 3D work and had only done 1 with success and ruined about 3 others ... So I started using thicker plexi, 1/2 and up to 1.25. Apparently I have gotten better at zeroing Z, made 3 of these in a row and all came out fine. Came very close to popping out the other side but thats just what I wanted, very close.
Is about 12x9, done under 2 hrs using a 1/16 tapered ball nose. There is 1 machining error, a line which runs from the top of the trigger across the grip ,,, Line was there on all 3, even tried running a 2nd pass on one of them, reduced it but still visible. Not sure what is causing it but I can live with it. I have watched it machining and it goes about 3/4 up the grip and for no apparent reason, jumps over and starts up higher.
It comes back after a while and starts where it left off, this line is the point where those separate cuts meet.

I do like the option doing these in 3/8, I usually have that onhand whereas 1/2 is scarce around my shop.

[Xray]

Not plexi obviously, this SOA rendering came out pretty nice in walnut.

Am thinking about getting some clear epoxy to flood fill it, just for the heck of it.

[scottp55]

Not my taste, BUT it came out REALLY nice Doug:)

[Xray]

Thanks Scott, this design is based off a popular TV series if you didn't know.
I think the sweet walnut grain would make just about anything look great, but it did turn out nearly flawless right off the machine, barely had to do any sanding.

[bleeth]

On the toolpath jumping to another section in the hand-guns:
If you run the 3d preview you can see where this happens and fix it in the code as you would be raising to a higher z level when it makes that move.

[Xray]

On the toolpath jumping to another section in the hand-guns:
If you run the 3d preview you can see where this happens and fix it in the code as you would be raising to a higher z level when it makes that move.

Maybe some day, am not qualified to edit code at the moment.
The only way I have found to keep all the lines in sequence is to do the model "standing proud" style, then it starts at the bottom and finishes at the top with no variation ... Not practical to use with plexi, I use it alot in wood including the last posted.

[scottp55]

TV? "Whassat?":)

On Walnut, How much meat did you leave... and what bit and stepover did you run?
Saw the Purpleheart, still like Walnut best:)
Any warping?
Nice work!
scott

[Xray]

Pretty thin, sure less than .25. I like to go thin cause you get a higher model, and leaving the surrounding edges adds to its rigidity and overall unique look.
Bit was a 1/32 tapered ballnose, stepover 8%. No warpage at all, flat as a board ,,, And I agree, walnut looks the best out of the 4 I have done so far. I'd like to do one in padauak but don't have a suitable chunk at the moment.

[scottp55]

Thanks Doug!

[Xray]

Finally got around to plexi, this one was done in 3/8 and is about 13x9, turned out pretty nice. I did forget to flip it, sucks.

[Xray]

Not 3D, but plexi. Not sure what to call these, how about "back painted".

Take some plexi and paint it [any color you wish, I use black].
2-3 coats a must to ensure coverage. When dry, etch your design [mirrored, same as any plexi design].
When done, next step for me is to spray the etch with matte clear coat, this to a degree restores lost transparency created by the machining.
With that done and dry, spray the etch with the color of your choice [I usually use white, just tried this yellow and it pops even more].

After this I spray the reverse back to black, purely cosmetic.

You can edge light them [white example is edge lit], but no sense using multi color, just white will do. Paint absorbs most of the light so its just a nice accent for those times where it might be displayed in the dark.
This union logo should be a hot seller on some of my big jobs, guys go gaga for stuff like this. But this method lends itself well to just about anything 2D, lots of options for creativity. I have been thinking about airbrushing a red/white/blue stripe flag design, etching a nice eagle on it and painting it black, that would look pretty slick. [Sorry if pics are upside down/sideways, these phone shots seem to come out that way often]

Designs are 12x12", 3/8 thick and were done with a drag bit. Could just as easily be done on .25 or .5 plexi, I like the extra depth of 3/8 vs .25.