kitchen table finish

[gary_n]

I am looking for some recommendations on a clear flat finish for a kitchen table made out of knotty pine. There will be no stain involved. I simply want a flat finish that will be durable and water resistant.

[bleeth]

If you have proper spray equipment available then the best way is to use commercial grade catalyzed lacquers such as ML Campbell Magna-Max.

If you are brush/rolling it then the Minwax products (Satin) off the shelf will be OK-but not as resistant to chemical reactions from food spills.

[pappybaynes]

If you have proper spray equipment available then the best way is to use commercial grade catalyzed lacquers such as ML Campbell Magna-Max.

If you are brush/rolling it then the Minwax products (Satin) off the shelf will be OK-but not as resistant to chemical reactions from food spills.

I second Dave's recommendation

[jTr]

I'll concur, but make an additional suggestion:

Seal with de-waxed shellac.

With pine, especially air dried vs. kiln dried, you'll initially have shiny spots over the knots and other pitchy areas. Longer cure times can help, but do not always eliminate this issue. Considering your targeted sheen, this could be particularly noticeable.

The shellac can aid in reducing this effect, as it flashes off quickly and has a tendency to form more of a barrier over the pitch, rather than amalgamating or mixing with oils and resins in the wood (especially if sprayed on). This barrier reduces the resin's effects on subsequent coats, thereby reducing or eliminating the sheen shift.

This is why it works so well with refinishing, as it is not prone to react with silicone and residual waxes after the stripping process, which are notorious for producing fish-eyes. It was also used for priming knotty wood siding for homes to aid in stabilizing/sealing those areas for better paint performance there as well.

As to the topcoats, bear in mind the magna-max and it's Sherwin equivalent conversion finish (T77-F63) are only available in 5 gallon quantities (at least in my market). You may need to go with the polyurethane if you do not have the facilities and/or volume of work to consume that amount in a 4-6 month period.

Either way, the de-waxed shellac is your friend.

Best of luck!

Jeff

[gary_n]

Thanks guys for all the expert advice. I have a cabinet shop friend who uses the catalyzed lacquers. I am headed up there now to see if he uses a sating or flat finish. Thanks again.

[bleeth]

He can always add a little "flattening" agent if satin is too shiny for you. You can also flatten satin by rubbing it out with 4-0 (very fine) steel wool and mineral oil.

[dlcw]

I steered away from lacquers because they didn't hold up well. I switched to MLCampbell Duravar conversion varnish. It is much harder then lacquer. You can get a clear version which is called Krystal Clear. It is conversion varnish that does not amber like the Duravar does. The important thing is to not apply to much or you can get cracking of the finish over time.

I use an AccuSpray HVLP sprayer to apply and I've gotten super results. I talked to my finish supplier about using it for a cherry island countertop I'm working on. He recommended thinning the first coat 15% so it will soak in deeper to the wood. He has several customers that use DuraVar on coutertops with excellent results.

I've used Duravar on several kitchen tables - and kitchen table chairs - with excellent results and very happy customers.

[jTr]

Gary-
We're patiently waiting for a picture of that gorgeous table...!

jeff

[Ajcoholic]

There are several types of lacquers - and every individual companies will have a better/worse performing product.

Typically in the furniture industry, a straight nitro cellulose lacquer is at the bottom. That is the stuff you find in the hardware store.

Next up are the pre-catalyzed lacquers. They are an improvement but are still no where near the next level up the chain...

which are the post-catalyzed (synthetic, acid cured lacquers). Typically known as "post-cat". These are the top of the lacquer chain and are very hard, durable and resistant to most household chemicals. Ive been using a Canadian made post cat lacquer for most of my working career and it is a great product. I have too many tables and cabinets, etc done over the past 20 odd years to recall - I know how it performs on a heavily used kitchen/dining table and it is great stuff.

A conversion varnish is - depending upon who makes and sell it, very similar to the post cat lacquers. Some companies clain it is superior, but in my testing (and I have done quite a bit) there isn't really much difference and in some instances I have found some CV's to be inferior to some PC's.

The top of the finish chain, to my knowledge are the catalyzed urethanes. They are the isocyanate cured urethanes that are harder and more resistant again to chemical attack, etc. I see this more of an option for commercial tables like in a restaurant, and more to withstand the daily cleaning with harsh chemicals day in and day out.

AJC

[gary_n]

Here are some pictures of the kitchen table I was putting a finish on. I wound up using a lacquer finish that has its own separate hardener that has to be mixed before spraying. It was made in Italy, so I can't tell you the name of it, but it sure is hard.

[gary_n]

Forgot to mention--all 4 table skirts have 2 3D strands of barbed wire cut on the 'Bot. They are slightly visible in the pics.

[genek]

Another good product is the system three mirror coat (bar top) epoxy. You can pour it on smooth it out and it will go perfect level. Holds up to heavy bar use. This is what i use when i do a bar top for a bar. Great stuff.

[genek]

here are some pictures of the kitchen table i was putting a finish on. I wound up using a lacquer finish that has its own separate hardener that has to be mixed before spraying. It was made in italy, so i can't tell you the name of it, but it sure is hard.
very nice looks great

[bleeth]

I think I know that stuff. It's a catalyzed polyurethane and does a great job. If it's who I'm thinking of ML bought either them or the US rights for distributorship a while ago. I did a table (anyone remember the high-lo expanding round one?) that was finished with their gloss. Very good product. Table looks great.

[gary_n]

This product is being distributed in our area by Gemini Coatings in Oklahoma.

[wberminio]

Nice detail on the apron!