ShopBot stops communicating during cut?

[HandyManBill]

I have ditched 3 signs that were nearly complete...back and then front when the bot freezes up, no movement except the spindle stays on.

First time I thought it was bad code, second time I made sure there was no internet screwing up the connection or computer updating itself and messing with keeping sleep mode off.

Each time there is a yellow box stating that the program has lost communication and must close, you may not be able to find your Zero again:eek:

Thought I could edit the code the second time because I noted the positions and the last line it was on...deleted everything before except the start-up protocol which once I saved it and ran what was left it had moved about an eighth of an inch from where it should have been...must have taken out one line too many.

Also the message always says to check the cables but apparently they are OK once you shutdown the software and re-start............ANY IDEAS??

[Rob Gunn]

I would say it sounds like electrical static charge, bad or no ground. You running a dust collector without a copper wire in the hose? I have had the same issue many times until I corrected my grounding issue. Good luck and let us know what you find out.

[jTr]

Bill,
I agree with Rob. I fought those issues for almost a full year with my new machine. Look to the mechanics involved first before you scrutinize files. I'm fairly confident your notes were accurate and your file manipulation was not the issue - when the machine loses communications with the computer, it almost always shifts position.


-Check for migration of low voltage and comm cables towards high voltage cables.
-Grab a pen and paper and make a simple map of where all your ground wires go. Be sure you've neither created any ground loops, nor missed any ground locations.

Final cure for me was the copper wire run through the inside of DC hose to common ground for ducting. Comm errors eradicated.

Hope we're right in that it is this simple for you as well.

jeff

[HandyManBill]

Thanks Rob & Jeff!
I totally re-did my grounding on the DC, set-up yet another sign and got all the way through it...hooray! I had no idea that the static could cause that kind of trouble with the control box, thought the main reason to ground it was for fire and explosions. Thanks again!

Bill

[Bob Eustace]

Bill on abandoning signs. Are you aware that if you always zero using the C3 command, no matter what happens you can redo that sign picking up the old tool pathes EXACTLY. So the rule is never use the centre of the work to set up.

[HandyManBill]

Thank you Bob, I did not know that. One of the reasons I use the center is that I engrave my company name and location on the back along with mortising out two areas to place my mounting hardware. I work the backside first, then turn over and do the front with the final profile being cut as the last pass.

If I was to do it in left corner lets say for the backs then I will have to change to the right corner when I do the front.

Now my problem is that my machine is possessed and cutting about a half inch into the sign where it started off at .15" deep and in a different position...going to post that one next.

Thanks
Bill

[myxpykalix]

So the rule is never use the centre of the work to set up.

Once again Bob is WRONG!!:D lol

One thing i do in case of situations like this where you don't want to lose work if you lose all settings is, prior to starting work i do a C3 to find table Zero.

Then i manually jog over to my material X,Y zero (I usually set mine in the center of material). I then write down those X,Y coordinates. Then I Zero X,Y.

So now if the gremlins sneak in on me during or between cuts all i have to do is go back do a C3, MX24, MY24 (or whatever the numbers are) and i'm back to manual center of the material even though all settings were lost like in your situation.

The key here, is before you start a file you do a C3 to find your table ZERO
then establish your material X,Y zero. When you move to your X,Y zero on material
WRITE THOSE COORDINATES DOWN ON PAPER!:)
Then REZERO at your material X,Y Zero
Set your Z zero also
Start and run your file from there.
If you have a problem you can just do a C3 to go back to your table Zero
then do a MY(input numbers written down) MX(input numbers written down)

Others do an Offset from Zero just from the control panel but what if your computer freezes or has a problem...you lose that info.
Or if your control box has a issue....you lose that info
With this method you NEVER lose your spot (assuming you don't move your material):eek::D

[adrianm]

Not sure why you couldn't just use the offset though. Either way you're writing down the co-ordinates as an offset from the C3 zero.

Using the 2D offset saves the step of having to another z-zero.

[cowboy1296]

With no formal training grasping c3 was a little on the greek side to me when it turned out to be simple. But I too x,y zero on the center of my material and have no issue with c-3 as long as i know the coordiates to the center of material. I learn something new almost every day so if there is an issue with centering on the center of the material, then educate me.

[ssflyer]

I usually center to the lower left corner, because most of my material is rectangular, even though it may not end up that way. :)

I've modified my C3 command to position X0, Y0 at a place on my table that has a corner jig setup. That way a simple C3, and I'm set in XY.

I will zero to the center when I'm doing odd shaped material like a burl, etc., and then I take a picture of the burl and add it to my Textures folder so I can see the real thing in preview.

@Bill - "If I was to do it in left corner lets say for the backs then I will have to change to the right corner when I do the front. "

No, you wouldn't have to change corners when you flip the material, but you may have to flip the vectors for the front. Easy to do, and give a set startup zero routine.

Just my way - they all work! :D

BTW, the only reason I modified my C3 command is that after a control software update, it seemed to be really slow going to the locations I had set in the SB3 setup for the C3 offsets.

[jerry_stanek]

Bill there is a good video on how to do two sided machining onthe shopbot training.

[gundog]

I usually center to the lower left corner, because most of my material is rectangular, even though it may not end up that way. :)

I've modified my C3 command to position X0, Y0 at a place on my table that has a corner jig setup. That way a simple C3, and I'm set in XY.

I will zero to the center when I'm doing odd shaped material like a burl, etc., and then I take a picture of the burl and add it to my Textures folder so I can see the real thing in preview.

@Bill - "If I was to do it in left corner lets say for the backs then I will have to change to the right corner when I do the front. "

No, you wouldn't have to change corners when you flip the material, but you may have to flip the vectors for the front. Easy to do, and give a set startup zero routine.

Just my way - they all work! :D

BTW, the only reason I modified my C3 command is that after a control software update, it seemed to be really slow going to the locations I had set in the SB3 setup for the C3 offsets.

In the new control software 3.8 XX there are 4 programable buttons you can set for different codinates on the table. So you could use C3 to find your absolute X0, Y0 then program a button for your corner jig and zero there with the Z2 command.

I have a couple jigs I clamp to my table that I have programed buttons for I really like this new feature. I know many people have not upgraded to the newer control software yet but it has some cool gadgets. So far I have not had a problem with the new control software but I have not used it a bunch yet.

Mike