Dovrtails

[drandals]

I don't post on here much but I read a lot of the post and find it very helpful. I would like to ask a favor. I was wondering if anyone have a file for the Shopbott to cut dovetails for drawers that they would share.
Thanks
David

[srwtlc]

Check out these links...

http://www.shopbotblog.com/index.php/2008/08/dovetail-and-mortise-jig/

http://www.shopbottools.com/LabFiles/GaryDovetail.htm

[drandals]

Scott, Thanks for the links. Hope you had a Happy Thanksgiving
David

[myxpykalix]

david i sent you a PM

[Howley]

Has anyone ever tried to use a porter cable 24" dovertailing machine in conjunction with these files? Removing the aluminum dovetailing template and just use the hold down feature of the machine secured to the CNC table?

Also, I'm I correct in assuming this all gets done from the far end of the table, it's the only location where I have enough travel off the end of the work surface.

I do a ton of dovetailing, and would love to get the bot involved.

Thanks for any feedback!

John

[adrianm]

Not that make but the same idea. Took off the ali "comb", added a little corner jig to get the XY position right and it worked well.

Just follow what Gary did substituting your jig for his custom version.

http://www.shopbotblog.com/index.php/2008/08/dovetail-and-mortise-jig/

I don't use it any more as the extra time of adding dovetails didn't equate to an equivalent amount of extra money for the job so I just use a drawer jointer in the router table these days.

[myxpykalix]

David,

I want to set this up to do box joints so it's similar to what you want to do.
Someone posted a dxf of a boxjoint layout but i couldn't find it.

Basically what it was, was a top down view of the edge of a board with just vectors drawn across. All the jig will do for you is hold the material in place. You would have to make your toolpaths on the top of the wood.

All of us have seen jigs you can use on your table saw to cut box joints or router table for dovetails which works on the principle of using a spacer to offset each piece and cut both at the same time.

I guess it's just a matter of setting your profile vectors equally spaced apart taking into account the offset between both boards (being the width of the bit you are using:confused:

[steve_g]

Jack...

Is this what you're looking for?

http://boxmaker.rahulbotics.com/ (http://boxmaker.rahulbotics.com/)

[jTr]

John,

Verify that your PC jig has conductivity and fences in similar locations as described in Gary Campbell's article. If not, build one to suit. I just did this a few months ago and went 34" wide between fences - this way, I could run odd and even cuts easily for even the largest drawers, and opens possibility of utilizing it for case construction.
If you have not tried the files he's given away, you'll be pleasantly surprised. One calibrates the jig by using a ZZero type routine to find left and right fences as well as front edge of jig. It will even tell you if you have it clamped parallel to the shopbot frame so you may adjust.
Then, when you're ready to run, the actual program he's written literally holds your hand through the process - constant message boxes prompt you on your choices step by step. He's even programmed it to pull up about 4",then jog the carriage back a couple feet so you can swap stock for the next run, all the while offering the option to adjust your settings prior to each run. Brilliant, and outrageously generous of him to give this away - never ceases to amaze me how little I hear from others utilizing this accessory.


As to running on the other end of the bot, I had concerns and questions, and here are the notes I use each time I set up my 2012 PRSAlpha 9660:
- Jog X,Y to 96,60
- Z2 = sets this as the new 0,0, home
- VERY CAREFUL: enter "VU" and unit value screen appears. Find the values for X and Y. Simply insert a "-" in front of those values without changing the actual numbers themselves.

Some had suggested I may need to do cable swaps in addition to the above, but my machine functioned perfectly by simply following the procedure above.
WARNING: use at your own risk, try some air movements to verify all is performing as expected and finally:

REMEMBER TO UNDO YOUR VU SETTINGS when resuming normal operations.

If you do a "ton of dovetails" and want the speed and accuracy of the bot, do not hesitate to jump into this - you'll be thrilled by the awesome results. I no longer will waste time on any other dovetail methods. I'm confident this is exactly what you are looking for.

My first batch of drawers included three 5" high and five 9 5/8" high file drawers, including adjustment times for stock size, came in at about one hour on the shopbot,( not including warm-up/jig calibration). The cleanliness of the joinery is probably the best I've ever seen from any other machine method. I can even utilize my Kent dust shoe (3"brush length) and be almost 100% dust free.

Good luck, and thanks yet again to Gary Campbell for all the foundation you've given us for optimizing our machines!!!

Jeff