cutting advice needed

[myxpykalix]

I have some 3" thick walnut 9.5" wide x 48" long. I want to cut out some round boxes 5" around about the size of a cd. I want to have a wall thickness of .25 when the inside is pocketed out.
I have a 4" long .5 endmill which is probably going to make it "top out".
But i think i can work that out.

But what i wanted to do was FIRST cut the outside profile down say 2.75" deep, leave a square bottom put it in the indexer and carve a pattern like a basketweave on the side then take it back and pocket out the inside. Because if i pocket it first then i have no way to butt it up to the tailstock.
Plus if i cut it out round I can't register it back on the table easily.
Although leaving a square on the bottom (for registration) limits my space on the sides for design carving.

As i wrote that it occurred to me to make a insert (like a lid) that would fit in there, and go ahead and pocket it before taking it to the indexer.
I would then need to leave the bottom thick in order to cut a groove for the jaws of the chuck to hold it to.
Can you envision what i'm wanting to do, and have a easier solution?

I want to make the boxes out of this 3" piece, i don't want to do glue ups. I have a broken finger and it's going to be hard enough without a bunch of other woodworking at the moment.

[Brady Watson]

Machine the part 100% 1st.

Out of the same material, make a stepped plug that fits inside the pocket you cleared out (with .01" of wiggle), plus a 'raised' round part that can be gripped by the chuck. Chuck that part into the indexer. Put workpiece on it.

Using a 60 deg v-bit dink the center of another piece of some scrap so that the live center taper fits into it perfectly without going through it to protect the work. Cut that piece out on the Bot.

Sandwich the workpiece in between the two parts & machine.

Put the jigs on the shelf for next time.

-B

[myxpykalix]

Let me see if i understand......

Machine the part 100% 1st. CHECK

Out of the same material, make a stepped plug that fits inside the pocket you cleared out (with .01" of wiggle), plus a 'raised' round part that can be gripped by the chuck. Chuck that part into the indexer. Put workpiece on it.

CHECK....except instead of mounting the part in the chuck, i am mounting the plug into the chuck....right? So that the open pocket is facing the chuck.

Using a 60 deg v-bit dink the center of another piece of some scrap so that the live center taper fits into it perfectly without going through it to protect the work. Cut that piece out on the Bot.
CHECK...make a piece that friction fits over the bottom of the round box with a divit for the live center and those 3 pieces sandwich together, right?

Sandwich the workpiece in between the two parts & machine.

Put the jigs on the shelf for next time.

Did i interpret your directions correctly? Thanks:D

[feinddj]

For reference on how to do this (the old fashioned way) look at books about wood turning, specifically boxes. The chuck you use on the indexer is a Nova chuck, if I remember correctly. They sell a wide variety of jaws for those including a non marring set which might do well for you or you could make your own from UHMW. Nova chucks also work in expansion as well as contraction so you might just be able to hold your box from the inside.

D

[Brady Watson]

Pics...

Green is stepped core

Brown is machined workpiece

Yellow v-bit 'drilled' tailstock packing

-B

[genek]

Brads way will work. But if you are unsure you can reverse his setup spread some glue on the bottom put a sheet of typing paper on it then spread some glue on the holding stock stick to the paper. clamp let dry. index your pattern separate the two pieces and sand glue and paper off. I turn bowls this way..

[myxpykalix]

Brady,
If "a picture is worth a thousand words", then you said a mouthful:D
That confirmed what i thought you were describing. I had envisioned the piece turned around at first and this makes better sense. My initial concern was depth of cut on the exterior for the carving versus the wall thickness. I may increase it to 3/8ths just to be safe. Thanks for going the extra mile with the pics:)

Eugene,
I have not turned in a long time, but you reminded me of some of the turning tricks like with the paper between the joints. There was also one where we would use an "activator" spray then a "(something, something) cyanyrite(?) glue on the bottom of a bowl to hold a plug for turning that you would then take a chisel and pop off. We would have to divit the bottom of the turning first to find center then drill a hole in the center of plug and run a nail thru it to find the divit then attach it. That way you knew you were in center. The paper/glue seems easiest.:eek:

[Brady Watson]

No problem Jack.

You can use the glue & paper method too...but my setup is made for production. So if you wanted to make more than one, you're ready to go...and no catostrophic glue failures :D

-B

[genek]

No problem Jack.

You can use the glue & paper method too...but my setup is made for production. So if you wanted to make more than one, you're ready to go...and no catostrophic glue failures :D

-B
sounds like you have turned a lot and had a few go across the room. lol

[myxpykalix]

that was one reason i gave up turning. I was turning a bowl or something with just my hat on and glasses. Something told me to STOP! and go put on my faceshield. I'm glad i listen to my intuition. A minute later this thing flew off and hit me right in the center of the faceshield and would have hit me right between the eyes and knocked me out:eek: